Night Storage Heaters

[acat]

Hi Folks

Never dealt with these before and try to avoid them, however Ive got a job to next week and the customer has just rung me to say his heater in the living room is not working. I would like to appear like I know what I am doing so can I have any hints and tips for what to look for, tests and expected results and of course how to get round the timer.


Thanks



Chris

 

[Graeme Harrold]

Some have built in charging stats (mostly below), and due to the increased ambient temps lately, they might not be switching in to charge mode as the room is still warm....They are very basic pieces of kit and very little to go wrong.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Continuity test at the local switch through the heater,if the heater is ok you will get a reading of around 15-20 ohms.In that case i'ts a supply problem.
If open circuit the problem is on the heater. Most likely the overheat cutout. This is in the top of the heater and is accessible once the case is rmoved,normally there is a tiny button to reset,some of them have a fusible link which has to be replaced.
If the O/H cutout has operated the most likely cause is the heater being covered to dry clothes etc or the charge stat has packed up.
The supply in the heater goes through the O/H cutout,through the charge stat,and then to the elements,nothing to 'em really.

 

[Guest123]

As wirepuller has mentioned it could be the OH stat (provable by a no continuity reading), or the bi-metallic strip contacts (also at the top) falling to make, (again provable by no continuity), or the heating elements (although unlikely for 3 or 4 to go at once). It may be that the elements have been dying one by one for a while and now the last one has gone. A continuity or I/R test on each element will confirm.

 

[mogga]

somw have a fuseable link ( legs connected through solder) again either continuity or possibly visual if not in block

good luck I hated these when serving my time

 

[lewlec]

hi

what i some times do is put the heater on a plug top to try it out and use a clamp meter to see if its drawing current. also as the above say.

regards gary

 

[acat]

Thanks Folks your input and indeed any more that may come in it has been very much appreciated.


Chris

 

[UNG]

Beware if it is an old storage heater as they can have asbestos insulating boards if this is the case don't even attempt a repair and try and not disturb any dust

 

[baldsparkies]

Beware if it is an old storage heater as they can have asbestos insulating boards if this is the case don't even attempt a repair and try and not disturb any dust

As said, they stopped using the dreaded A around 1990, so anything less than 20 years should be ok. Lots of people are under the impression that night store heating is a primary heat source, its not. The purpose is to supply background heating, slowly released through the day. In cold weather the units need to be supplemented by peak rate heaters. A lot of customers I have come across expect them to perform like a gas central heating system,and they don't, so be prepared to educate them on this point if neccassary.

 

[UNG]

Lots of people are under the impression that night store heating is a primary heat source, its not. The purpose is to supply background heating, slowly released through the day. In cold weather the units need to be supplemented by peak rate heaters. A lot of customers I have come across expect them to perform like a gas central heating system,and they don't, so be prepared to educate them on this point if neccassary.

Night storage heaters are designed to be a primary heat source, the problem you mention occurred with the early storage heaters which had poor insulation and ran out of heat part wat through the day and/or required a day time boost. The newer heaters are more than capable as a primary heat source when sized correctly although having done some calcs a number of years ago the economy of Economy 7 is not very good when compared to other fuels also the unpredictable nature of the uk weather means storage heaters may be charged up unneccessarly and thus incurs costs which instantaneous forms of heating don't

While storage heating would not be my preferred source of heat if a customer requires it then I normally give them all the details (pro's and con's) of the different systems available and associated costs they may not have considered. Only problem now is all the alternative technology heating products hitting the market and understanding the installation, running and on going costs

 

[Digster]

acat, Be sure to take a stubby pozzy driver with you or you may not even be able to take the cover off. BTW the cover screws are at the bottom and the top. Be carefull not to undo the screws holding it to the wall bracket because the heater is full of heavy bricks. and will deffo fall farwards onto you. Also if you take it apart be aware that ihe insulation is probably heat damaged and brittle, if the client is at home put a small dust sheet under it! Also if you are not sure what the over heatl cut out looks like it is a round disk (the ones i've seen) the size of a penny and you just have to gently press it,when resetting it will give a click sound just like a kettle does when boiled.
The element terminals are at the bottom of the unit in white ceramic connector blocks.
If you do liven it up (i've never needed to, continuity test is sufficient) be carefull of exposes live parts on top right hand side, they will be covered in dust and you may not see them. Melting link will mast probably be at the top too.
Good luck.

 

[acat]

Thanks Digster click like a kettle now that I understand


Chris

 

[acat]

Thanks Guys for all your input went to the job today having read all your posts and convinced myself that I could sort it out no matter what.

When I took the cover off I found that the tenant had accidently disconnected the fire on the inside, me thinks he wanted a new one, didnt know anyone could go that red.



Chris