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Hey all,
Training to be an electrician and trying to get my head around testing.

If a socket was to have no voltage but all other sockets on the ring work, what example reading would I get to show it is in fact a fault on the ring?

Would it be as simple as when I do my ‘little rs’ the tester would show no continuity?
I.e 99.9 (refer to this for last paragraph)

The thing that would confuse me is how the socket would not get a supply from either side of the ‘leg’? ( my understating is typically if one leg goes down the other leg still works and energises said socket)

I guess to summarise this question. What sort of result would indicate it is a fault on the ring even though all other sockets work?

Thanks for your time, I still get bantered on site so fully expect some here which is fine but if you could guide me that would be more than fantastic.
Just trying to apply myself.
 
Hey all,
Training to be an electrician and trying to get my head around testing.

If a socket was to have no voltage but all other sockets on the ring work, what example reading would I get to show it is in fact a fault on the ring?

Would it be as simple as when I do my ‘little rs’ the tester would show no continuity?
I.e 99.9 (refer to this for last paragraph)

The thing that would confuse me is how the socket would not get a supply from either side of the ‘leg’? ( my understating is typically if one leg goes down the other leg still works and energises said socket)

I guess to summarise this question. What sort of result would indicate it is a fault on the ring even though all other sockets work?

Thanks for your time, I still get bantered on site so fully expect some here which is fine but if you could guide me that would be more than fantastic.
Just trying to apply myself.
Try You-tube there are many easy to follow RFC testing videos available for learning purposes.
 
this is where RFC testing becomes more complex. as you say, 1 leg could be down on any of the 3 conductors but all sockets would work. your first test would be end-end - r1, rN, r2. this would establish whether ir not a conductor was not continuous. if there is a break on any conductor, a wander lead and a meter measuring resistance, would track down the break.
 
By definition if an accessory on a ring is without power, it is a fault on the ring.

The key here is not to assume anything... if one socket is without power then you may or may not get values for the little r's. It's entirely possible that the conductors are twisted together (thus maintaining the end to end continuity) but are just poorly terminated and have thus pulled out of the socket or aren't making a good enough connection resulting in a serious voltage drop at the affected socket when placed under load. Of course the switch could also be bad, or the internal components of the socket could have failed.

If only one socket is without power on a ring I would start there... I probably wouldn't do end to end checks until after I'd investigated the one place without power. If multiple places are without power then you have to narrow it down a little and end to end checks are a good place to start because then you'll know whether which conductor you're looking at for bad connections... it won't tell you how many bad connections but it's a step in the right direction as you'll learn a bit more about the fault.

There are a lot of possibilities... but if the end to ends are good, then you have to look at what's connected. If they aren't, you still need to look at what's connected and there are ways of getting a handle on where the problem may be by creating a map of the circuit so to speak and carrying out specific measurements at each accessory.
 
By definition if an accessory on a ring is without power, it is a fault on the ring.

The key here is not to assume anything... if one socket is without power then you may or may not get values for the little r's. It's entirely possible that the conductors are twisted together (thus maintaining the end to end continuity) but are just poorly terminated and have thus pulled out of the socket or aren't making a good enough connection resulting in a serious voltage drop at the affected socket when placed under load. Of course the switch could also be bad, or the internal components of the socket could have failed.

If only one socket is without power on a ring I would start there... I probably wouldn't do end to end checks until after I'd investigated the one place without power. If multiple places are without power then you have to narrow it down a little and end to end checks are a good place to start because then you'll know whether which conductor you're looking at for bad connections... it won't tell you how many bad connections but it's a step in the right direction as you'll learn a bit more about the fault.

There are a lot of possibilities... but if the end to ends are good, then you have to look at what's connected. If they aren't, you still need to look at what's connected and there are ways of getting a handle on where the problem may be by creating a map of the circuit so to speak and carrying out specific measurements at each accessory.
i could have said the same but typing with 2 fingers would tak me all nite.?
 

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