Opel starts rarely - P1615; P1616; B3058; U2101; U2103; U2104; U2105; U2108

[Forzacorsa]

Hello everybody from Germany!
I'm feeling sick with this car, it won't start, just very rarely...please help me out.

Car: Opel Corsa C 1.2 2003 (Vauxhall)
Little background to the car i bought it from a private man who changed the battery and alternator beforehand and for me it seemed the BCM was already changed once too since the case was glued and had configures of a right hand drive car, mine is left hand drive, but he wouldn't have mentioned it. He said that the battery had once showed him something around 16-18V before he changed battery and alternator.


The codes written are diagnosed by OP-Com 1.99 120309a. The car shows sometimes the service lamp blinking while it goes off afterwards completely or comes back up blinking again. Then the car won't start eventhough the starter will try. When turning the ignition off and on several times and the lamp is constantly lighted I may start the car, afterwards most of the time all measurements like rpm or coolant temperature and speedometer will fall off to 0 with the battery lamp and abs lamp coming ON. I had a feeling like when driving longer there weren't ocurring any problems when the motor got warm enough. Now after trying several things with OP-Com, unplugging ABS sensor, unplugging coolant water sensor and even replacing the BCM the codes come back again ALTHOUGH at the first time after resetting and programming everything (ECU,Immobiliser,BCM,Instrument -> that order) the problems seemed to be solved but would occur again after configuring the BCM to the settings my car had before. No problem solved after new BCM...


VIN codes are programmed to the ECU
10 seconds and longer waited after turning ignition off when programmed
Everything programmed succesfully, maybe not 100% right configured with the extras the car has, but wouldn't be relevant at those fault codes i guess

At engine data:
P1615 Wrong Vehicle ID from Body Control Module
P1616 Wrong Vehicle ID from Instrument Control Module
At BCM data:
B3058 - (0 ) Vehicle ID Not Programmed - Present
U2101 - (0) CAN-BUS Maximum Configuration List not Programmed
U2103 - (A) V-Bus Malfunction - Present
U2104 - (A) V-Bus Reset Counter Overrun - Present
U2105 - (0) CAN-Bus no Communication with ECM (Engine Control Module) - Present
U2108 - (0) CAN-Bus no Communication with ABS/TC - Present
BEFORE Resetting and programming modules new: B1485 - (9) Exciter Current Generator Terminal 61 Circuit Open - Not present
At Instrument (probably unrelevant):
174 Coolant Temperature Wrong signal

 

[newfutile]

You need to program the vin into all the modules the same,otherwise they won't talk

 

[Forzacorsa]

You need to program the vin into all the modules the same,otherwise they won't talk

I programmed the vin everywhere possible at the modules

 

[newfutile]

you could have a can bus fault maybe intermittent ,the modules at each end of the bus have a 120 ohm resistor so you should see 60 ohms measured , try measuring while someone else shakes the wiring looms,other than this you may need a scope to check the waveforms against known good ones

 

[newfutile]

I would be looking at the U2101 which may mean the BCM has less than 2 systems programmed I think,it may be in the ABS program the high speed bus configuration ,try to match all the modules your car has installed.

its been a long while since I had a combo van , I take it you have the correct car pass code?

 

[Forzacorsa]

you could have a can bus fault maybe intermittent ,the modules at each end of the bus have a 120 ohm resistor so you should see 60 ohms measured , try measuring while someone else shakes the wiring looms,other than this you may need a scope to check the waveforms against known good ones

I would be looking at the U2101 which may mean the BCM has less than 2 systems programmed I think,it may be in the ABS program the high speed bus configuration ,try to match all the modules your car has installed.

its been a long while since I had a combo van , I take it you have the correct car pass code?

Yes car pass is original and correct.

Practically how should i test the resistance? Scratch the surface of the HI and LOW can wires?

 

[brianmoooore]

There's a Corsa model from around this time where the problem is the connection to the instrument cluster. Symptoms are that it nearly starts and runs, but not quite.
The wiring socket is fixed to the bodywork and a plug on the back of the instrument cluster pushes into it when the cluster is fixed in place. This, not unsurprisingly, leads to a degree of movement between the plug and socket when the car is in use, and, over time, eventually leads to poor or intermittent connections.
Check is to hit the top of the dash, near the cluster, really hard with the flat of the hand and see if it makes any difference.
Temporary cure is to pack out the socket slightly to increase the pressure between plug and socket.
Permanent cure is to remove both plug and socket and splice a short length of additional loom between both sets of wires.

 

[Forzacorsa]

Little update:

i looked up mostly all parts of the green white wires and they seem to be OK.
I used contact spray and nothing changed - still sometimes spanner light goes on and sometimes off. Now the interesting part:

When moving the plug at the ABS/ESP module the spanner goes on and off, which must be a damaged contact. I opened the plug and there wasn‘t any corrosion or loose wires. So for me it has to be a damaged ABS/ESP module that lose connection.

For now i will unmount the module and check the mainboard for corrosion and contacts, what you say?

 

[Forzacorsa]

There's a Corsa model from around this time where the problem is the connection to the instrument cluster. Symptoms are that it nearly starts and runs, but not quite.
The wiring socket is fixed to the bodywork and a plug on the back of the instrument cluster pushes into it when the cluster is fixed in place. This, not unsurprisingly, leads to a degree of movement between the plug and socket when the car is in use, and, over time, eventually leads to poor or intermittent connections.
Check is to hit the top of the dash, near the cluster, really hard with the flat of the hand and see if it makes any difference.
Temporary cure is to pack out the socket slightly to increase the pressure between plug and socket.
Permanent cure is to remove both plug and socket and splice a short length of additional loom between both sets of wires.

I unmounted the intrument cluster and the pins was fine also everything OK with it.