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B

big-ed

Hi all,

I have fitted an outdoor socket, drilled a 12mm hole through the brickwork & ran white 4mm 2C+E fp200 from the outdoor socket to inside the garage into a surface mounted 20A IP rated switch.

From the IP rated switch I have ran the cable to my smaller garage consumer unit & fitted it with an main RCD & a 16A type B breaker.

Do I need to get this Part-P certified?..
 
Hi Big-ed. How's the house going?

I have some questions:
Who told you to wire the circuit up this way?
Does you consumer unit in the house have a RCD on it?
What is the outdoor socket wired to?
How have you ran the 4mm cable from the outdoor socket to the switch in the garage?
What exactly is the IP rated switch? Do you mean like a light switch?
 
Hi Spoon,

The outdoor socket is the same as this:
Double switched 13A outdoor socket, 5397007039924

The outdoor switch (even when its in the garage) is:
Single outdoor switch, 2 way, 20AX, 5397007039887

The main house CU is in the garage & this has a non rcd side & an rcd side. The shower was fed from the non rcd side (as was allowed in the 16th edition regs) even when the showers manual says it needs one, so I used the original 40A breaker to feed a separate Hager 6-way consumer unit with a 40A 30ma RCD, 40A type-B breaker & have a 16A type-b breaker that I am using for the garage socket inside the garage & now for the outside socket.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Outside IP rated socket

Where the cables meet the switch, I have fitted IP rated glands in case I have wet hands from using a pressure washer etc. & want to turn the power to the sockets off. The cables are clipped using plastic P-clips screwed into the stud behind the wall & the OSB skirting in the garage.

The house had a ton of electrical issues, bad connections & some plain dangerous & out of reg. things that I have had to sort out myself then got them checked by an electrician.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
if you're electrician is happy to do as you've said, he's well dodge.
I'm staying out of this one!

In what way?, considering the original installation passed with some stupid errors that should have been caught during its first inspection & testing.
 
Why didn't your electrician tap into the tails to add the 6 way Hagar CU? I wouldn't have done it the way you have mentioned.
So you are using a 16A breaker from your Hagar CU for the outside socket. Are you saying that you have clipped the cable for the outside socket to the skirting board?
The install does sound a bit rushed.... Maybe its the way Im reading it. Any pics would be great.
 
Why didn't your electrician tap into the tails to add the 6 way Hagar CU? I wouldn't have done it the way you have mentioned.
So you are using a 16A breaker from your Hagar CU for the outside socket. Are you saying that you have clipped the cable for the outside socket to the skirting board?
The install does sound a bit rushed.... Maybe its the way Im reading it. Any pics would be great.

The problem was we properly moved in to the house in late November, found the issues in December & having not much spare money, I had some advice from the IET forum & was advised what could be done so at that point asked a friend that is an electrician, he was busy at that point with a few jobs, but said he'd come out & have a look.

He said to RCD the shower to make it safer for use, he had the Hager 6-way CU that looks the same as the bigger one we have already (maxed out) & he could give us that for free & fit it all in for beer & some dinner as a favour to us in an evening.

So he used the original shower 40a breaker that was on the non RCD side to then feed the new smaller CU using 10mm t&e & that has the 40a 30ma RCD & a second 40A breaker. The Garage had no sockets inside so he fitted a double socket & used a 16a breaker for this.

The garage is a painted plasterboard wall, but has a 20-30cm high osb board running around the walls from the floor.. So Instead of using trunking, I fitted the cable to the top edge of the osb with the p-clips.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
From your other thread:

"Hi all,

I'm Ed, Just joining here to get some advice about wiring etc.

I'm not an electrician, but a DIY'er & with my wife & I purchasing our 1st house in November 2013 (5 year old new build), after finding lots of problem with the electrics I have become a more competent DIY electrician.

Ed."


So now you want to suck free information out of the people who earn a living doing this?

Sounds like you need to locate a local competent spark to work on this house with you.

Me thinks this will be my only contribution to assist you!
 
From your other thread:

"Hi all,

I'm Ed, Just joining here to get some advice about wiring etc.

I'm not an electrician, but a DIY'er & with my wife & I purchasing our 1st house in November 2013 (5 year old new build), after finding lots of problem with the electrics I have become a more competent DIY electrician.

Ed."


So now you want to suck free information out of the people who earn a living doing this?

Sounds like you need to locate a local competent spark to work on this house with you.

Me thinks this will be my only contribution to assist you!

And your point is??.. Im not an electrician, I am an IT tech looking for advice.

I sorted a lot of the problems myself & after seeing how bad a job was done by the electricians that built the house, used the IET forum for some advice & got my friend to lend me a hand.

If you read the end of first post at the top of this page you will see I am asking "Do I need to get this Part-P certified?.." as I keep seeing this on forums about works being done.

All I am asking is for some advice to see if I need to spend ÂŁ100's for an electrician to come out to give me a piece of paper to say its been done ok & passes to meet any regs. or not.
 
Part P certification applies to England and wales in different forms. Seems your internet research to date has missed this rather obvious point. And if you were in the UK no decent spark will sign off "your" work as there isn't currently a way to do this.

In England and Wales the 2 ways to comply with Part P are to either pay LABC to undertake an inspection or employ a spark to design, install and test & notify.
 
ok. I'm gonna go back on my word and reply.
aside from whether or not it needed notified under part pee (doesn't apply to Scotland btw) how do you now that the work you have done is any good. I mean, how have you tested or worked out anything? I know you've mentioned you've been on other forums and gained information, and you're going to get your sparky friend to come and test, but what if he says what you've done is duff and needs ripped out and done again. properly?
 

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