outside light question

A

ample current

I need an outside light which comes on with a pir and when the customer wants the light on he can switch it on thus over riding the pir so it stays on. Can you buy it like this or does it have to be wired skipping the pir? Im thinking of a luminaire with the pir built in.
Cheers
 
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I thought most pir lights had an over ride function. I bought a coach light from electrifix yesterday with manual over ride and pir. About 30 quid and looks the part with decent wiring instructions
 
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most of them come with a built-in override. you flick the switch supplying the fitting on/off twice rapidly for manual and the on/off with a 30sec. pause to revert to auto. failing this, just add an override switch ( generally means feeding the fitting in 3 core/E)
 
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Every pir i've fitted has an override where you turn it off and on at the spur quickly, or you can just wire a switched live from a light switch to the pir switched live
 
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I have been asked to do this for a friend and have come up with a few options. He doesn't want to just use the manual overide function, he wants a seperate switch to switch on/off whenever he wants.

1. Some lights (with PIR) have 4 terminals L, L', N, E. You could do this with 3 core cable between the isolation switch for the PIR and seperate on/off switch and then also 3 core between light and one of the switches or T&E between switches and a seperate T&E going from each switch to light, PIR isolation switch live going to L and seperate on/off switch live going to L'.

2. If the light only has 3 terminals (L, N, E), then I cant see how you can have a seperate switch as the L goes through the PIR. However I would then buy a seperate PIR which did have 4 terminals (screwfix do a stand alone PIR - good reviews, cheap and has 4 terminals) and wire as before.

I would draw some diagrams but at work and cant find a scanner! I'll draw some later if you want?

Would need extra fused spur if taking from sockets... 3 switches in total!!
 
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Very Very easy to add an overide switch, you don't even need a 3 core a twin will do, you just add a switch to the light circuit, a permanent feed from the live side of the PIR and then a switched link back to the switched side, there may be only a live neutral and earth block to connect to, but there will be a 4th terminal there which is the switch link from the pir to the light.
 
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Amp David said:
3 switches, what for?
Click to expand...

Just finished a rough 12.5 hr shift and had a beer so be gentle!! Would only need the 3rd switch (i.e FCU) if sourced from sockets.

PIR OVERIDE_0001.jpg

This could be my last ever post, but I enjoyed drawing it :54:
 
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Amp David said:
Head hurts now!

You only need the one switch after any FCU
Click to expand...

But the whole idea is to have a nice little seperate switch like the OP wants to switch on the light even if the PIR says 'No', without having to use the faffy overide function dial on the PIR.
 
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Hi fella, even doing the Job your way your only need one switch after the spur, anyhow not trying to be anything other than chatty here, please don't feel offended at all, it is just a discussion, basically no need for the first switch you showed on the drawing your way, if it was me I would just take a pair to the light and a pair from the light to a switch, thats just me.
 
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happyhippydad said:
But the whole idea is to have a nice little seperate switch like the OP wants to switch on the light even if the PIR says 'No', without having to use the faffy overide function dial on the PIR.
Click to expand...

Perm live to your common, then from common to L on your light, switch live to L1 on the light and neutral blocked inside your switch.

Switch off then light operates via PIR an switch on light is over rided until switched off.

4 core flex to the light.
 
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MDJ said:
Hi fella, even doing the Job your way your only need one switch after the spur, anyhow not trying to be anything other than chatty here, please don't feel offended at all, it is just a discussion, basically no need for the first switch you showed on the drawing your way, if it was me I would just take a pair to the light and a pair from the light to a switch, thats just me.
Click to expand...

None taken :smile5:..... Draw me a diagram :wink_smile:
 
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Amp David said:
Perm live to your common, then from common to L on your light, switch live to L1 on the light and neutral blocked inside your switch.

Switch off then light operates via PIR an switch on light is over rided until switched off.

4 core flex to the light.
Click to expand...

You're right, thats so simple! Apart from my diagram being overcomplicated its also completely wrong!! I enjoyed drawing it though :smile5:.... but next time I'll draw one on my day off and without a pint of guiness. I'm going to bed embarrased but not disheartened :cry_smile:


MDJ said:
By the way I'm working in stroud at the moment, well not now haha, but have been during the week.
Click to expand...

Good place to work, nice people and nice coffee shops...
 
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