Outside Light

[hightower]

My mate has asked me to install an outside floodlight. I've been today to have a look and the install is up-to-scratch (RCDs, good Zs's etc) but there's a couple of options to do the work.

Option 1 is to tap in to the kitchen light circuit - the kitchen is in a single storey extension with a slant roof, it'll be tight up there to work in, plus I'm not exactly sure how to bring the cable out (do I just try and find a path between the roof tiles and top of the brick work?

Option 2 is to tap off the upstairs ring final. There's a socket at the top of the stairs, I could chase an FCU in to the wall next to it and then drill straight out the back of the FCU to take it outside.

After looking at it, I'd say it's six and two three's for ease of install - crawling about in a small attic space vs chasing walls. So I'm leaning towards option 1 because I think it will be a more professional install, but just wanted to gather other opinions on the matter before I give my mate a plan of attack.

 

[telectrix]

chop a D/P FCU next to the socket. minimal mess if you're careful and double pole isolation in case of a fault. 3/5A fuse and 0.75mm black flex from FCU to external wiska box if fitting is pre-wired with 1m flex, as is usual with LED floods.

 

[hightower]

Think it will be halogen tel so wiring straight to light. Thanks though very helpful as usual

 

[ruston]

It's not difficult to get the cable near the loft hatch using rods, but I think Tel's method will be quicker the time you fight with the fibreglass etc.

 

[Octopus]

Think it will be halogen tel so wiring straight to light. Thanks though very helpful as usual

Er....... Why halogen?

 

[hightower]

Er....... Why halogen?

Cost - she wants something cheap but bright. LED equivalent is about 40 quid compared to 10 for a halogen fitting.

 

[Pete999]

My mate has asked me to install an outside floodlight. I've been today to have a look and the install is up-to-scratch (RCDs, good Zs's etc) but there's a couple of options to do the work.

Option 1 is to tap in to the kitchen light circuit - the kitchen is in a single storey extension with a slant roof, it'll be tight up there to work in, plus I'm not exactly sure how to bring the cable out (do I just try and find a path between the roof tiles and top of the brick work?

Option 2 is to tap off the upstairs ring final. There's a socket at the top of the stairs, I could chase an FCU in to the wall next to it and then drill straight out the back of the FCU to take it outside.

After looking at it, I'd say it's six and two three's for ease of install - crawling about in a small attic space vs chasing walls. So I'm leaning towards option 1 because I think it will be a more professional install, but just wanted to gather other opinions on the matter before I give my mate a plan of attack.

I hate roof spaces option 2 Mate is my choice

 

[hightower]

I hate roof spaces option 2 Mate is my choice

Added to the fact this roof has about 3 foot of space at the highest. I'm starting to like option 2 aswell. It's a small hatch, last time I tried I couldn't get shoulders past (the name hightower is for a reason) so not sure I could this one either.

 

[ruston]

Added to the fact this roof has about 3 foot of space at the highest. I'm starting to like option 2 aswell. It's a small hatch, last time I tried I couldn't get shoulders past (the name hightower is for a reason) so not sure I could this one either.

Option 2 also gives you an easily accessible isolator too.

 

[joehat]

Emery and cost off running and replacement lamps every year or two plus time, if she's capable of replacing it.
Every customer has always agreed with me and gone for the led route, I don't ever even quote for halogen. As they rust and do t last long and waste good energy any how.


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[hightower]

Emery and cost off running and replacement lamps every year or two plus time, if she's capable of replacing it.
Every customer has always agreed with me and gone for the led route, I don't ever even quote for halogen. As they rust and do t last long and waste good energy any how.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a customer though, it's a mate with not a lot of money. As for cost of replacements, you'd have to replace 10 or 15 lamps in order to get your money back.

 

[ruston]

And maybe the led's wont last as long as they say they will.

 

[hightower]

Perhaps. To add, they've just moved in to rented accommodation, that is quite frankly disgusting. I think they'll be there a year and then onwards and upwards so don't think they are bothered about a 10 year plan etc. Just need something to get the bike in and out the yard with. Thanks for all advice though, I do take everyone's opinions on board.

 

[Dave OCD]

You might also find it easier mate to fit a small weatherproof box adjacent to the new light for the T&E to terminate into and connect a suitable short flex to the light on the ground, this can then be connected in the box once the light is up on the wall as those halogens can be a pain to connect up in the air and you need a fair bit of slack.

 

[hightower]

You might also find it easier mate to fit a small weatherproof box adjacent to the new light for the T&E to terminate into and connect a suitable short flex to the light on the ground, this can then be connected in the box once the light is up on the wall as those halogens can be a pain to connect up in the air and you need a fair bit of slack.

T+e? Oh no, you're gonna start a whole new debate