Outside Power

[whazza22]

Looking to put some power to an outside shed with is approximately 5m away from the house.

Only problem I have, is that the cable needs to pass through the kitchen to get outside, but has a concrete floor.

Would it be best to run twin and earth under the floorboards to the kitchen, then chase steel conduit into the concrete floor (which will be screeded and tiled). I can then put a 90 degree bend up the wall and drilll through to outside. Could put a waterproof adaptable box on the outside and join to an swa.

Any thoughts?

Suggestions welcomed

Thanks

 

[Paul.M]

Can't see anything wrong with that (correct me if I'm wrong).522.8.10 + correct IP rated junction box. Don't envy you chasing out the concrete.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Sounds a bit major,cant you get under a run of units from the floor boards to the outside wall?

 

[rocker]

Yea, I'd be looking at going through the ceilings under the 1st floor boards.

 

[whazza22]

I can go under floorboards up to the kitchen but then its concrete.

The other option is to go upstairs under floorboards then drop down but the drop would be outside safe zones as it would be run further than 150mm from corner of wall. Is that correct?

 

[J@mes]

go straight out from under the floorboards and then down the outside of the house?

 

[Doomed]

I can go under floorboards up to the kitchen but then its concrete.

The other option is to go upstairs under floorboards then drop down but the drop would be outside safe zones as it would be run further than 150mm from corner of wall. Is that correct?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the outside drop will be surface mount and therefore safe zones not needed.

 

[whazza22]

No the drop would be inside then drilled through to outside, as they do not want the swa clipped down the side of house from upstairs.

Spoke to another electrician today and he said to spur it off the kitchen ring as its only feedling one socket and one light in the shed which will be used very rarely, and put an rcd spur (powerbreaker) for lights and RCD socket.

Obviously not the best method but a hell of a lot easier. Is this acceptable?

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Fine as long as the kitchen ring is a ring...(amazing how often 'rings' turn out to be a load of spurs from spurs),Feed from a FCU in the kitchen,which could be an RCD one to cover all,just remember the shed will be limited to 13a......If you choose to use an ordinary FCU at the supply end remember on a TN system there is no requirement to RCD the light in the shed,just use a standard switched FCU for the light and an RCD socket.

 

[Spudnik]

As above, sounds fine to me.

 

[whazza22]

So providing the spur I take from a ring has a FCU, I can in effect have a radial off of a ring (if you get where im coming from)

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Yep...there are explanatory diagrams at the back of the BRB which explain everything you need to know about rings and radials....

 

[Jas0n7]

isnt there a rule about not taking the PME earth outside of the building? ie the armouring on the cable can be pme connected but the earth for the things in the shed needs to be staked? is this right? Im sure i hurd something about a difference if potential in the voltage to earth outisde of the main building. ta

 

[Sintra]

It's a myth in many instances you can export a TNC-S to an outbuilding.

 

[Bigboy247]

The problem is twelve months down the road some one will add ten sockets and more lights, so would always look to the future and more work. So keep it as independent from other circuits so in the future when you return to add to the new circuit, life will be easy and the customer will be so happy they will tell all there friends. So much more money in your pocket.