pat testing

[james king]

hello im new to this site, i am just in my 1st year as a traine i was wondering how to test a appliance with a pat tester, now i know you have to test for continuity but if the appliance is plastic how would u make a connection with the croc clip ect?

thnk u very much

 

[ringer]

Sometimes you have to improvise with a class I device that is encased in plastic Usually have to try finding an exposed screw, though even then they may just be screwed into plastic - some VAX hoovers are like this. In this case I open up the cover to expose the earth connection and test continuity from the terminal. Are you sure this is a class I appliance, or is it class II?
PAT testing is a series of tests, and those tests are slightly different depending on the class and type of equipment. I know most people think PAT testing is pretty mickey mouse, but it does require competence. Remember - when you PAT test, you are taking on responsibility for the assessment of electrical safety. Insurance is a must. My advice to you is get properly trained - do a course. And make sure it is a C&G2377 course.

PS there is a sub-forum on here for PAT testing - look in the forum for Inspecting, Testing & Certification

 

[james king]

eg a class 1 plastic kettle? i was trying at home and ca not get earth cont reading greater than 1999 so is this a fail? although it passes ir and all other tests

 

[ringer]

Plastic kettle - in fact all kettles - put the clip on the element. You may have to scrape away limescale from the element first to ensure a good connection. If it is one of those kettles with a concealed element (i.e. flat bottom) then you have to put your hand inside the kettle and hold the clip so it connects with the metal base. Easier said than done - you may have to clip onto something metallic and hold it firmly so that (something metallic) remains in contact with the base.

 

[nickblake]

Plastic extract fans ive used long screw drivers to reach the motor shaft for the earth bond , having said that the most important test is visual its ok doing a earth bond test insulation test leakage load test ,but if the cable has been damaged or the plugs damaged or with the wrong size fuse even not a fuse found a drill dit in a fuse carrier once so these are the things to look out for

 

[Patman]

Hi- ringer is right that all kettles are Class I construction, and that you have to scrape away limescale or allow the teeth of the croc clip to "chew" into the lime scale in order to get an earth bond reading. Regarding kettles with elements hidden beneath base plates, to avoid a scalded hand -"Oh, can we just make a cup of tea before you start in here?" - and you don't have time to wait, a long bladed screwdriver with the croc clip attached will always get a good connection when reaching in to the bottom. Of course if the kettle jug is of stainless construction odds are that you can test through the case. But some stainless kettles are not necessarily earth bonded to outer jug !
Good luck with your endeavours and I concur with ringer that you should get stuck into C&G2377 and then practice what they preach.
By the way - its never a good idea to go dismantling equipment in order to obtain an earth connection (IEE refers) – it could be argued that this activity is the same as that if a repair were being carried out, and therefore will need a retest !
If a piece of equipment is not marked as double insulated (Class II) it should be treated as Class I - but if its constructed so no earth is accessible it should be tested as Class II and that fact noted on its test record.

 

[ringer]

...By the way - its never a good idea to go dismantling equipment in order to obtain an earth connection (IEE refers) – it could be argued that this activity is the same as that if a repair were being carried out, and therefore will need a retest !
If a piece of equipment is not marked as double insulated (Class II) it should be treated as Class I - but if its constructed so no earth is accessible it should be tested as Class II and that fact noted on its test record.

Good point made by Patman re opening up panels. I like the idea of testing as class II and noting on schedule of results, but will still want be satisfied that there is continuity of earth through the flex, so in future will open up panel to check earth in flex, then close panel and test as class II and note accordingly. It may be time consuming, but I like to do a thorough job.

 

[Patman]

Hey ringer - you working or what? That's a lightning response. I'm suffering with a bad back at present so am catching up on some paperwork.
Regarding checking as Class II regarded Class I items etc - typical example are AC adaptors or power supplies that rely on an earth for the operation of their circuitry, rather than safety. These usually come with either an IEC lead or clover leave lead, which of course can be tested separately.

 

[ringer]

lean times, mate, and still trying to establish business - self employed since April rather than sign on. Have a couple of hours work from 2 this pm, apart from that nothing today. Sitting in front of PC dismantling and (hopefully) reassembling mobile phones - very fiddly and my eyesight isn't as good as it was.It's good to compare note on PAT testing - there are many aspects that are not clear cut and working on your own, there is no-one to consult with.

 

[Patman]

Feel for you mate - I started business nearly 7 years ago, best to regain some self respect after being made redundant. A large electronic company I had contract with 4000 items plus, has shut down this year so thats left bit of a gap. But always look towards gaining those other customers out there. What marketing strategy do you use - not a leading question. (Your Northampton, I'm Lincoln).

 

[ringer]

Had some flyers made up but to be honest have not distributed them all yet. Hand my card out to people I meet. Have had some word of mouth work - ideally that is where I want to be at, with a good reputation. I am not cheap but do a thorough job with a professional approach. Starting price £2.00 (was £2.50 but not much work at that price). Have a website which has brought in a couple of enquiries and some work, but again not much. Putting a lot of effort into studying for installation work - research on this forum and others - am doing 2330 at college two evenings a week. Do some fault finding and repairs, but getting started on installation work without quals and registration is not easy, especially as a one man band. Trying to do things the right way, but will take a long time. I know I'll get there in the end, just not sure how far away that end is yet. May have to take up some non-electrical work to get some money coming in.