M
MTP
Hi guys,
Before I ask my question, i'd like to refer you to this information I found:
My questions:
I work for a residential home and will now be doing our PAT testing in-house following our yearly review.
Should I be omitting the earth-bond test?
Im using a PB500 unit. For the Class 1 appliances the unit automatically carries out the Earth bond test first. Upon failing this test (as there is no access to metalwork) the whole test comes to an end - without testing the insulation. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Many thanks
Matt
Before I ask my question, i'd like to refer you to this information I found:
The most important thing to remember is that the following applies to Class 1 equipment where there is NO accessible metalwork.
If you come across a standard Class 1 appliance then you should always try to obtain an earth connection but with some of the types appliances above it is impossible. In these cases the only option is to omit the earth bond test.
This would not normally be acceptable but the thoughts on the subject are if you cannot touch metalwork on the appliance with your earth bond clip then a user cannot touch any metalwork which may become live as a result of a fault condition.
The main question that people ask is "Shall i test it as a Class 2 appliance ?" the short answer is NO !
The appliance is always Class 1 and therefore you should always apply Class 1 PASS marks.
My questions:
I work for a residential home and will now be doing our PAT testing in-house following our yearly review.
Should I be omitting the earth-bond test?
Im using a PB500 unit. For the Class 1 appliances the unit automatically carries out the Earth bond test first. Upon failing this test (as there is no access to metalwork) the whole test comes to an end - without testing the insulation. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Many thanks
Matt