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domestic spark

i have reciently done a 2392-10 inspection and testing course.

i have purchased a set of fluke 1651b testers which came with a new installations cert sheets. pack.

if i do a private job to wire a kitchen i can either put a new cooker circuit, kitchen ring and run a new lighting circuit for 10 spot lights, into the existing board as there are three spare ways,

or i could put a "garage unit" fuseboard in and new tails to it and just put MY new circuits in it.

what is best, and am i allowed to do??

im not niceic registered.

i have 17th edition, 2330 level 2. part p. 2392-10 inspection and testing.

more notes:

the fuseboard in the property is a 17th board everything else was wired two years ago.
 
Hi if you aren't witrh ELECSA NICEIC or any of the schemes, you will have to notify the work you are doing to your LABC, which normally costs between £100 and £200.
 
if the wiring is less than 3 years old and is up to regs why would you need to change the kitchen ring ? and if there is 3 spare ways i can't see the sense in fitting a new enclosure save yourself and the customer cash and utilise what you have. put if your not on a scheme then you actually have no right to do the job without as rockers said notifying building control
 
as rocker stated unfortunately not, most works would require you to either notify building control for every job and pay the fees or join a competent persons scheme (about £400 per year)
 
house rewired bar the kitchen. there are two kitchens in the property. so i can certify with the fluke sheets i have? but obv i also need to ring building control and show them?
can i add to the fuseboard without having to test the whole property again??

thats why i though garage unit would avoid all complications. as i only want responsibality of MY work
 
ah right, if i were you i would use existing board as putting a henly block to split the tails to the new board would involve pulling the main fuse..... (getting council involved might pick up on this and you have to call dno to pull ;) ) you only have to test your work and issue a cert for what you have done
 
i am unsure as i work on council contracts and have an electrical supervisor. i install and test the job. every job i run cooker, shower, kitchen ring, 10mm bonding gas and water, install b.room and kit fans, somkes and a heat. and fuseboard change. however he top copys the cert and is the niceic holder.

every job i change the board and test all MY new circuits and anything existing.

thats why im unsure IF I DONT CHANGE THE BOARD like in this case for instance, do i have to re-test all circuits in it, if i add to it?
 
sorry mate just was unsure how qualified you are. as you can imagine we do get quite a few lads fresh out the gate like newley qualified having undertaken a quickie course if you know want i mean...not ment to offend.... as for your question i think adding them to the original board and testing your circuits would be ok but maybe it would be wise to price and complete a full pir perhaps
 
in which case you would only need to test the work you are resposible for and anything minor could be certed but anything requiring an eic would need labc fees or partp scheme membership
 
im 22 but been on council contracts, since i started, ive started testing 3 months ago properly, for a new job i started on price. same work day in day out. so obv i dont fill out the proper certs (niceic) i just fill out a printout sheet, and test the whole property, electrical supervisor for the company i sub direct to writes them out.

my question is, do i have to be niceic to sign it off. and if i add to the existing board, do i have to test all the other circuits in it.
 
again you need to be either napit elecsa or niceic to sign off your own work
and you only have to test your work so in your case what you have added to the current board.
 
thats all im unsure about.

can i add to the board, BRAND NEW CIRCUITS, without having to re test ALL EXISTING CIRCUITS.

and can i then use my fluke new installation certs to fill out.

and what will building controll want to see/ or need and what do they do??? on site visit????
 
Okay, we understand that you work with someone else but I would really think about expanding on your 1 day part p course as you don't seem to have much of a grasp of part p, and unfortunately it's important. Not meant to be having a dig at you mate, I don't doubt you can do the job as you've been shown to a good standard, but if you want to start doing your own work you need to think about part p, insurance etc - if you are doing this job as a 'fiddle' I will assume you don't have any liability insurance, so what are you going to do if it goes belly up. This is why us 'self emplaoyed' lot have businesses, part p memberships, 2 million liability insurance, professional indemnity insurance.... it's not just a case of getting some tools and away you go, I'm afraid.

Now, under the regs and the laws, no you don't have to test the rest of the board, only circuits you are working on. You do have to make sure things like bonding and (if applicalble) RCDs are in place. To 'sign it off' you have to be 'competent', you have part of an NVQ, testing and inspection, you say you have 'part p' is that a VRQ level 2you have? Do you have the 2382-10? Your LABC or scheme provider (such as elecsa or nic or napit) will be able to tell you whether they deem you competent with these qualifications. You can use any 17th edition model EIC form, you don't have to have NIC ones. NONE OF THIS MEANS ANYTHING IF YOU ARE NOT WITH A PART P SCHEME OR ARE NOTIFYING LABC. Remember if notifying LABC you must get the 'planning permission' BEFORE you start work. If you are not with a scheme and do not notify, any of the work you have mentioned you do will not be legal and you cannot 'sign it off' regardless of what certificates you have.

What I'm saying is that, un;like a mechanic or whatever, you cannot do 'fiddles' after work for cash-money. If you work with an electrician but aren't properly qualified or registered yourself, you cannot do any extra work.

EDIT: Council probably will want to do a site visit, and they mainly haven't got a clue so won't allow it to be signed off even if what you've done is all correct. They are mnorons like this.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
By part p as far as it goes I done a course and obtained a cert level 3 I'n the building regulations for electrical installations I'n dewellings. And as for testing, level 2 I'n fundamental inspection, testing and initial verification. A also do have axa public liability for 2 million. So basically I can't sign off this work, even if I do ask building controll to come down?
 
OK who issued your part p course cert? I mean what examining body? City and Guilds, EAL, anyone like that?

They will let you sign it off if it is done to their interpretation of the regulations, and often their interpretation just wrong. So you may find yourself having to re-do some work. In fact you almost certainly will have to, as they are all little hitlers on a power trip, who know precisely sod-all.
 

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