Plumber cut main bonding

Benny_Boy · Mar 31, 2010

Alright fellas,

Went out to wire in a boiler today and the plumber has cut the water main bonding

to make "a bit of room"

nice

Can I make a joint and still comply? or do I have to run an unbroken cable?

I was thinking possibly a crimp?

any ideas?

Deleted member 9648 · Mar 31, 2010

I believe a quality compression crimp is acceptable but cant remember where I saw it.

pennywise · Mar 31, 2010

Tell him he needs to pull in a new one

Doesn't a registered plumber also have the responsiblity of re instating earthing conductors as part of his remit.

Guest123 · Mar 31, 2010

Just cut 8 inches out of the flow pipe of the heating system, tell him you did it to make room for your clamp!!!!

Notsosmart · Mar 31, 2010

No not really, besides have you got a 10mm through crimp and the facility to crimp it professionally?

How far back has the idiot cut it; can you pull any slack to within 600mm of the stop****?

Wow the swear filter is turned waaay up!

Benny_Boy · Mar 31, 2010

pennywise said:
Tell him he needs to pull in a new one Doesn't a registered plumber also have the responsiblity of re instating earthing conductors as part of his remit.

Try telling a blinking plumber that.

I think I'd better have a good look through the BRB, although from memory I seem to remember that a compression joint is ok. I was just hoping someone might have experienced something similar and come to a similar conclusion......or not.

Benny_Boy · Mar 31, 2010

Notsosmart said:
No not really, besides have you got a 10mm through crimp and the facility to crimp it professionally?

How far back has the idiot cut it; can you pull any slack to within 600mm of the stop****?

Wow the swear filter is turned waaay up!

Hehe, I can crimp it alright, but I'm just thinking if I'd fail it on a periodic or not. To be honest if I saw a main 10mm bond with any kind of junction I'd probably tell the owner it needed to be replaced.

Hmmm, shame really, it's a good 10m of 10mm too. well it was before richard head cut the bleeder!

OK I reckon I'll be running a new bondd tomorrow, unless anyone else has a decent reg quotation to persuade me otherwise..............please!

Des 56 · Mar 31, 2010

Periodics
Bungalows
Plumber firm
Bonding
Cut
Shove up attic
Lots of them
When somebody mentions Plumbers I just start shaking my head
Irresponsible
Much higher valued than us
Much Higher paid
Crazy world hey

Spudnik · Mar 31, 2010

Des, I was looking at the first letter in each line to see if they spelt anything

Well, it does... Pbpbcslwimmc.

Benny_Boy · Mar 31, 2010

Des 56 said:
Periodics
Bungalows
Plumber firm
Bonding
Cut
Shove up attic
Lots of them
When somebody mentions Plumbers I just start shaking my head
Irresponsible
Much higher valued than us
Much Higher paid
Crazy world hey

You feeling OK Des?

I think you missed "Jumpers for goalposts"

Des 56 · Mar 31, 2010

No, not gone crazy yet.

They annoy me that much sometimes that I could write a book with the critisism.

I wouldn't waste my time expanding conversation about them and what they get away and to then be rewarded so well for their "couldn't give a crap attitudes"

Not all of them mind,just the vast majority

rocker · Mar 31, 2010

Tell me about it, des.

Might you be able to solder it? This is a question, not a suggestion.

GrannySmiff · Apr 2, 2010

I thought a crimp is classed as a permanet connection and then you can cover it with heat shrink?. Would like to know if this is acceptable

lamb · Apr 2, 2010

Crimp correctly with 10mm copper tube crimp, and tape up green/yellow. It's no different from crimping a lug on the end of bonding or any other conductor.

I have done thousands of these (I work for a heating firm - mainly installing bonding day in/day out). My large Knipex ratchet crimpers go up to 25mm. They stamp the number into the crimp, so any inspector can check that you have used the correct compression tool.

If I were to come across this on a PIR, I would inspect this termination the same as any other crimp connection: that the copper is to the end of the lug, the crimp is near the base of the lug, and the correct number is stamped into the crimp.

Every new bond I run, I am required to crimp a lug on the end for the bonding clamp (this makes for a professional job), then test continuity of the conductor using R2 Lead, label MET end of cable just before termination with permanent maker (gas, water, oil etc), and place a sticker by the MET "safety electrical connection do not remove", as it is separate from main switch gear.