Power window issue, 2010 Nissan Elantra

[cleger]

My GF's daughter's 2010 four-door Elantra had a broken window regulator at the front passenger door. I replaced it. To do so, I had to disconnect the harness plugs to the window switch on the door, the window motor, and to the speakers and power mirror. Everything came apart and went back together quite easily.

After the repair, the front passenger window can be raised, but not lowered, with the switch on that door. It can be both raised and lowered with the switch in the bank of switches that control all four windows from the driver's door. To be clear, the front passenger window can be raised and lowered by the driver, but it can only be raised by the front passenger.

The motor harness has only two wires leading to it. It is run in both directions by switching polarity. A meter on the harness reads +13.xx V when the window switch is pushed in one direction, and -13.xx V when pulled in the other.



The above photo shows the simple 2-wire harness as it enters the motor body. Note that the body is plastic. There is no chassis ground involved. In my hand is the harness plug for the window switch.

Here's a photo of the switch.




Everything looks clean and new. There are no burned components or traces anywhere, etc. The mechanical aspect of the switch seems to work fine. etc. The window part of the switch circuit is simple (the squarish component at right is the door lock switch. The window switch is at left.)

I suspect the resistor is to drop voltage at the LED. The pads I can identify are

MU - motor up
U - up (from driver's door)
G - ground
D - down (from driver's door)
B+ - ???
MD - motor down

TA - ???
ULO - unlock
LO - lock

I put a meter on it, expecting to see 0 volts with the switch in the "lower" position, but it reads -13.xx V. With the test leads attached to the two wire motor harness, I see plus or minus 13.xx volts when either of the two switches (driver's and passenger's) switches are operated, as it should be. I conclude that there's nothing wrong with the switch gear, and everything is fine, right out to the end of that two wire harness going into the motor.

But, the window lowers with the -13.xx volts from the driver's switch, but not from the -13.xx volts from the passenger switch.

Any ideas? I have to admit I'm stumped.

Thanks in advance for any replies!

 

[cleger]

I put a meter on it, expecting to see 0 volts with the switch in the "lower" position, but it reads -13.xx V. With the test leads attached to the two wire motor harness, I see plus or minus 13.xx volts when either of the two switches (driver's and passenger's) switches are operated, as it should be. I conclude that there's nothing wrong with the switch gear, and everything is fine, right out to the end of that two wire harness going into the motor.

Still no joy here. I'll go ahead and commit the faux pas of replying first to my own thread...

If someone else had written my post, I'd have thought some information is missing, or simply wrong. Given that there are 4 possible switch positions (2 switches * 2 positions) and all four result in appropriate voltage at the end of the pigtail, how is it possible that the motor isn't activated for only one of those four?

I checked and rechecked the readings 4 or 5 times, and got the same, consistent result each time. Either switch gives both +13v and -13v at the plug, but with the plug inserted, the motor does not run when the passenger switch is moved to "down."

I fear we're going to have to burn the car.

Please acknowledge. ?

 

[telectrix]

any possibility that there's a childlock activated on the window? if not why not just use the driver's control.

 

[cleger]

any possibility that there's a childlock activated on the window? if not why not just use the driver's control.

We had thought of that... there is a lock, and it works. Activating it deactivates the passenger switch entirely. With it switched to "unlocked," the passengers switch raises the window, but won't lower it, as I described.

Still, your remarks have me thinking I should have a look inside the driver's door. Maybe it is some aspect of that lock?

So, thanks for that!

 

[Bob Geldoff1234]

Maybe the passenger side window has to be programmed to work.I would disconnect the battery for half an hour and then on reconnection try the passenger window up and down first,holding the switches for quite a few seconds each time.

Also look here. Tech Tip: How to Reset a Nissan Power Window - AutoInc. - https://www.autoinc.org/reset-nissan-power-window-2/

 

[cleger]

Maybe the passenger side window has to be programmed to work.I would disconnect the battery for half an hour and then on reconnection try the passenger window up and down first,holding the switches for quite a few seconds each time.

Also look here. Tech Tip: How to Reset a Nissan Power Window - AutoInc. - https://www.autoinc.org/reset-nissan-power-window-2/

Excellent idea! I'll try it! Thanks!