Pretend Job

[Rather be Fishing]

I can't sign things of just yet but the plan is to start doing some of the little private jobs I get asked to do.

I've recently been asked by my neighbor about getting some power to a yet to be built wooden cabin or something like that. From his description its going to be the width of his garden which has got to be all of 40 foot if not more.

I'm not sure if I would do it because every time they had a power cut or something tripped Id probably get a knock on the door ii what I'd be thinking but incase he asks me to price it I thought I should probably have a practice go at pricing a job.

I cant get into his house to see what his current arrangements are but I could just use those that are in place at mine and just pretend its his.

If his earthing arrangement is different I can adjust it and if is current board is different to this one I can just adjust that to

So I can see that the earthing arrangement for the house is TNS

And there is a 10 way duel RCD 17th edition board. There is room for one more circuit.

should I be advising him to update his board to that of an 18th edition onee or is there no need

Should I be looking to take any readings at this point.

I know that I will have to ask him some questions to determine his needs.

I know typically you can get a little board for a garage that allows for a 16A radial and 6A lighting circuit

How do I know to go for a ring instead of a radial?

The garden is quite long and where he wants it is going to be about 100 foot from the house so I will need to know how to pick a cable.

I did study it I just cant remember everything so I'm just trying to have a practice

 

[telectrix]

first determine the expected load. say it's a few sockets (tools etc., no heating). and a light or 2, that would maybe come to a 30A supply (a 4.0mm or 6.0mm cable) then work out volt drop for that current and length. if using SWA feed from a non-RCD way in CU if available. fit a 2/3 way "garage" board in shed.

 

[Spoon]

should I be advising him to update his board to that of an 18th edition onee or is there no need

You can tell them about the benefits of upgrading to an 18th. You could also do 2 quotes. One upgrading his CU and one not.

Should I be looking to take any readings at this point.

If you are adding a new circuit to the CU then you are not touching the existing ones. This does involve Part P though. IMO no need to test circuits you are not touching.

I know typically you can get a little board for a garage that allows for a 16A radial and 6A lighting circuit

Depends on if 16A will be enough for the sockets. You will find this out when questioning what they will be using in the cabin.

How do I know to go for a ring instead of a radial?

Use what you are comfortable with.

The garden is quite long and where he wants it is going to be about 100 foot from the house so I will need to know how to pick a cable.

See above about what cable, installation method, volt drop and any other factors.

 

[Rather be Fishing]

Thank you @telectrix and than you @Spoon

Im at work at the moment but will be able to sit down and read this and put together a quote and see how it looks after.

Big up to @Lucien Nunes who is also helping me but with a ac unit issue and has been pmkng with me about it which is very decent if him.

On gonna start spending more time on here as it really is a brilliant place for me and you are all being really helpful

 

[Lister1987]

On gonna start spending more time on here as it really is a brilliant place for me and you are all being really helpful

Same reason I'm still here, always discussion to be had and learning to be done.

 

[Rather be Fishing]

Time seems to keep running out on me in the week and its already 4 o'clock today!

I'm sure its not a good look taking days to respond but I'm looking at this now and the more I look at it the more questions I've got popping up in my head stopping me from moving forward.

One of them is I'm looking at new boards and they either seem to come in 63A, 80A or 100A. Does the Ampage of the main switch board I buy depend on what the size of the suppliers cut out Fuse is. Eg if its a 100A cut out fuse I go for the 100A main switch version and if its a 63A cut out fuse I go for the 63A main switch version ?

 

[Lister1987]

Time seems to keep running out on me in the week and its already 4 o'clock today!

I'm sure its not a good look taking days to respond but I'm looking at this now and the more I look at it the more questions I've got popping up in my head stopping me from moving forward.

One of them is I'm looking at new boards and they either seem to come in 63A, 80A or 100A. Does the Ampage of the main switch board I buy depend on what the size of the suppliers cut out Fuse is. Eg if its a 100A cut out fuse I go for the 100A main switch version and if its a 63A cut out fuse I go for the 63A main switch version ?

Pretty much, you want it to be similarly rated in thr event some idiot throws it on load.

 

[Spoon]

One of them is I'm looking at new boards and they either seem to come in 63A, 80A or 100A. Does the Ampage of the main switch board I buy depend on what the size of the suppliers cut out Fuse is. Eg if its a 100A cut out fuse I go for the 100A main switch version and if its a 63A cut out fuse I go for the 63A main switch version ?

This is just my opinion.
The ratings of 63A, 80A & 100A are the max load the isolator can take. If you get a 100A rated isolator then it doesn't matter what size fuse there is, as it won't be over 100A. It also means that there is more leeway if they do switch it off on load.

 

[telectrix]

wot he said ^^^. better to run a 100A main switch @ 63A than push a 63A switch to it's limit.