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fantomcat_2k

Hi can someone give me and idea on how much i should be charging on this, im very unsure these days!!!

Ok- its a CU change on a TT system with 2 extra circuits for the garage- this includes both lighting and a ring main.

I'll need to inspect and test this also- so could/ would you add that on as well?

Thanks, Steve
 
You are not a charity so charge for everything you do. Consumer unit change depends on how many circuits are there already and how long its going to take you and where you are as rates vary.



Chris
 
Why not charge them £100 to test all the circuits prior to the job and tell them it will make sure there's no nasty surprises with anything needing replacing. Once you've done that you can also accurately work out how long it will take you as you're not going to get stuck trying to find something ******** your test results up. If your intital testing identifies any problems you can tell them about those and do it at the same time as the CU change. One the full list of work is there and I know how long it will take I'd normally charge materials + 10-20% + £30/hr (including traveling time) + VAT. If the job ends up taking longer then I stick to my price and never ask for more, as any hold ups should have already been identified with the inital testing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi, Thanks for that reply, but what would you suggest in a one off price for the work?

and also what would you charge for simply pulling in a 3 core switch wire?

Thanks, Steve
 
simply pulling in a 3 core swith cwire can vary hugely. On the job I am on at the moment i have done a few of these. One took 15 min and needed no remidial repairs to anything. another one took most of the day including a chase (and repair) of 4m.
 
Right, come on guysds i need quick answers here, im changing the box for a new one, there are 6 circuits to the house.

im also pulling in a supply to the garage - a ring mian and a lighting circuit.

what do i charge for each of these and also the inspection afterwards?

i work on price work only, can some one give me some idea? this job is due to start during next week!

Right, this question has just got more complicated....

The custmoer now wants a new CU in the garage, with extra circuits.

I have been working away for quite some time and have come back, Ive been told that all circuits have to be protected by RCBOs these days, does that cover the lights as well?

this job looks expensive to me, 2 CUs 3 new circuits, and armoured cable and testing for all, what do you think i should charge for the job?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'd be looking at charging around £750 plus extra should any horrors emerge during the work. How far away is the garage? If it's a long run you may need to up it slightly. Plus vat!
 
The garage is about 10m away, so a 10mm armoured cable is probably going to be needed,
my only problem here is that this garage is now going to be a workshop, so it may have two raing mains and a lighting circuit, how on earth im i gonna do that?

heres my idea, tell me what you think....

140amp 17th edtion main board, supplying the 2 dual rcds to each of the upstairs and down stairs of the house, then....

a 80amp rcbo in this board (dunno if this can be done) to supply the garage board with 10mm armoured cable, which then runs to....

the secound board, and then....

the secound board would have to be a 63a main breaker, and then run the two rings on 32amp mcb's (protected with 1 of the dual rcds... and then...

the lighting circuit on a 6 or 10amp mcb, on the secound rcd.


Does this sound ok for discrimination? what do you suggest?
 
Hi Steve, this is a bread and butter job. I don't wish to offend you but you are asking very basic questions that you should know the answers to if indeed you are competent enough to carry out the work. All answers regarding current carrying capacities, rcd protection and discrimination etc are in the big red book. Hope this helps.
 
be careful on this one youll have to check all the bonding and the cable to the rod if its got one being a tt and 10mm on a 80a breaker doesnt seem right like they say check the book
 

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