Protecting and installing SWA | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Protecting and installing SWA in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

W

walec

I have rarely worked with with SWA. heres my challenge.
I need to feed a garage with 6mm SWA, so that needs protecting with a 40A breaker.
There is no room in the CU, splitting the tails is the easy option.
What is the best way to connect and protect the SWA, I am thinking from the tails, 100A DP switch with 40a mcb, metal or plastic enclosure or cu? does it matter? someone suggested today to use a switch fuse which really has me thinking.
The garage board is already in place, 63A RCD with 2x16a & 2 x6a mcbs.
What is the best way to terminate at the garage end?
Any help most welcome.
 
I have rarely worked with with SWA. heres my challenge.
I need to feed a garage with 6mm SWA, so that needs protecting with a 40A breaker.
There is no room in the CU, splitting the tails is the easy option.
What is the best way to connect and protect the SWA, I am thinking from the tails, 100A DP switch with 40a mcb, metal or plastic enclosure or cu? does it matter? someone suggested today to use a switch fuse which really has me thinking.
The garage board is already in place, 63A RCD with 2x16a & 2 x6a mcbs.
What is the best way to terminate at the garage end?
Any help most welcome.


How far is the run, how is it being run surface/underground ,what is the volt drop

A 40A maybe to big for a 6mm
 
The run is 15 metres, 5 double sockets on one ring, 3 lights on each 6a radial and one socket on 16a radial.
Its how to connect on the tails end that I am confusing myself with!
 
as said by christain terminate the swa into a galve adaptable box and then run separate cables or a T&E into the CU.

Not sure why you say "so that needs a 40A mcb" but as you say you only want to know how to terminate. Just make sure that the cable (based on its worst installation method) can carry the amps of the mcb and that the volt drop at those amps is ok for the length of the cable.
 
Thanks guys I understand now how to terminate CU end. I would still like some ideas on the best way to connect from the henley block having split the tails, should this be a metal enclosure with a 100a double pole isolator switch switch with an mcb (40a just a guide its the theory I need) or a switch fuse?
 
Easiest way is get a 2 or 4 useable way consumer unit with RCD main switch. That way you can banjo/ bolt/ flylead the armour gland for bonding, you'll also protect the outside cable with RCD plus the 40A mcb and best of all, a fault in the garage won't afect the existing circuits. There's also room for future expansion too.
 
Thanks Eggster, I was thinking seperate two way CU, I don`t think I can use RCD though as its an RCD board in the garage.

Easy, take the rcd from the garage and use it in your indoor board, that way the indoor one will be cheaper just with a main switch! Just try to get the same make as the busbar won't often line up on mis -matched boards.
 

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