Adding a socket to a ring today, the socket fitted correctly, the ring with correct continuity and IR results OK but....

Plugging in the socket tester brought up a neutral fault??

The house has remote control lamps that change colour, can this electronic device effect the neutrals.. it seems to?
 
Adding a socket to a ring today, the socket fitted correctly, the ring with correct continuity and IR results OK but....

Plugging in the socket tester brought up a neutral fault??

The house has remote control lamps that change colour, can this electronic device effect the neutrals.. it seems to?
r1, r2, rn, R1+R2 all OK???
 
The Easitest Multi function brought up clear IR, no crossed ring or broken circuit... 0.6ohms r1 +r1.

Whilst we kept turning the power on/off during this episode, there was a point when some of the sockets proved OK. from memory, this was just before turning the lights back on....

To be fair, has anyone tested a house with these crap colour changing lamps...
My theory is that as the colour changes there may be a slight imbalance on the neutral. Not enough to trip the RCD but enough to upset the socket tester..
 
The Easitest Multi function brought up clear IR, no crossed ring or broken circuit... 0.6ohms r1 +r1.

Whilst we kept turning the power on/off during this episode, there was a point when some of the sockets proved OK. from memory, this was just before turning the lights back on....

To be fair, has anyone tested a house with these crap colour changing lamps...
My theory is that as the colour changes there may be a slight imbalance on the neutral. Not enough to trip the RCD but enough to upset the socket tester..
r1+r1?????????/
 
Adding a socket to a ring today, the socket fitted correctly, the ring with correct continuity and IR results OK but....

Plugging in the socket tester brought up a neutral fault??

The house has remote control lamps that change colour, can this electronic device effect the neutrals.. it seems to?
Was this new socket installed as part of the ring or a spur off?
where did you carry these tests consumer unit or socket?
Was the R1 +R2 ok at the socket?
Try an R1 + Rn at the socket if nothing at this socket and got at rest try the terminals.
 
I have accidentally put 500v on a IR test through one of them bulbs before, the lady told me she had unplugged everything in the house but forgot her daughters lamp! she told me afterwards she thought it might have been on the light circuit as its a lamp!!!!
suffice to say the led colour changing bulb didnt like having 500v put through it. it didnt work again! caused some very weird fluctuating results though. a bit like having a neon light on the fcu on a circuit.
With a lot of these 'smart' bulbs they are always left powered with the wall switch on, then you can use bluetooth and phone apps to control them.
 
I think there is no problem with the remote control lamps.
Today all lightbulb packaging carries the Federal Trade Commission's Lighting Facts label, which lets you compare similar bulbs without relying on watts as the sole indicator of performance. It gives information about the bulb's brightness (in lumens); yearly cost (based on 3 hours of daily use); life expectancy (in years); light appearance, or color temperature, measured in Kelvins (K); and energy consumed (in watts). Remember: An LED bulb's wattage rating doesn't indicate its brightness; its lumens rating does. A 60-watt-equivalent LED bulb delivers about 800 lumens, roughly the same as a 60-watt incandescent.

You may see a different label produced by the Department of Energy. Confusingly, it's also called Lighting Facts, though it's geared more toward retailers than consumers. The DOE label doesn't give the bulb's estimated yearly cost or life expectancy, but it does provide information on the bulb's color accuracy (more on this later).
 
I think there is no problem with the remote control lamps.
Today all lightbulb packaging carries the Federal Trade Commission's Lighting Facts label, which lets you compare similar bulbs without relying on watts as the sole indicator of performance. It gives information about the bulb's brightness (in lumens); yearly cost (based on 3 hours of daily use); life expectancy (in years); light appearance, or color temperature, measured in Kelvins (K); and energy consumed (in watts). Remember: An LED bulb's wattage rating doesn't indicate its brightness; its lumens rating does. A 60-watt-equivalent LED bulb delivers about 800 lumens, roughly the same as a 60-watt incandescent.

You may see a different label produced by the Department of Energy. Confusingly, it's also called Lighting Facts, though it's geared more toward retailers than consumers. The DOE label doesn't give the bulb's estimated yearly cost or life expectancy, but it does provide information on the bulb's color accuracy (more on this later).

I was going to post a sarcastic reply to your post, but decided not to, because I believe your response was genuine.

I doubt there are few on this forum that ain't aware that led lamps luminance, is measured in lumens, nor its life expectancy or economics, etc compared to other forms of lighting.

The thread is a about a fault on a circuit, populated with so called smart or WiFi enabled lamps, and whether they could instigate such a fault.
 
I'm sure the control electronics in the lamp wouldn't appreciate 500VDC across them. They don't like it up 'em!
 

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Remote colour changing light bulbs and neutral fault
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