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Right then,fair play for you,to do the further fiddling:)

As i alluded to,the electrics on them Kugas,can be "challenging".
I am flying blind,here,but your vehicle may have the electric boost,for the heating circuit.

This is to aid rapid demisting,from cold,and is usually nothing more than 4 or more glowplugs,in a heat-sink,through which the heater water flows.
It uses plenty of amps,as does the fan blower motor,on high,which is why these things have "load shedding",on the alternator output.

This allocates varying circuits,as if all the electrical consuming devices are on at once,it's melt-down. It can be anyway,as the 200A alternators,struggle to dump the heat...

Anywho...it sounds like it is a possibility,that the circuit your camera/monitor,is on,may be over-voltage,after all other current drawing items,have done their thing,and this may cause the interference.

Switching on the boost,will draw a sufficient amount of current,to maybe drop the voltage again,to a satisfactory level.
Some of these systems can and do,run at 16V+.

Another reason,could be the extra load,causes the load shedding,of an unknown current drawing item,which is the interference generator,and this is why it works.

Measuring voltage at the battery,will not always identify the problem.

I wish you lived next door,my friend,because whether it's a new 200 tonne piece of plant,or an Austin from the 1930's...i live for finding these little foibles ;) i think i wasted my enthusiasm on stuff like this,through my life...instead of investing it,like my pals,on ---- and beer :eek:
 
Right then,fair play for you,to do the further fiddling:)

As i alluded to,the electrics on them Kugas,can be "challenging".
I am flying blind,here,but your vehicle may have the electric boost,for the heating circuit.

This is to aid rapid demisting,from cold,and is usually nothing more than 4 or more glowplugs,in a heat-sink,through which the heater water flows.
It uses plenty of amps,as does the fan blower motor,on high,which is why these things have "load shedding",on the alternator output.

This allocates varying circuits,as if all the electrical consuming devices are on at once,it's melt-down. It can be anyway,as the 200A alternators,struggle to dump the heat...

Anywho...it sounds like it is a possibility,that the circuit your camera/monitor,is on,may be over-voltage,after all other current drawing items,have done their thing,and this may cause the interference.

Switching on the boost,will draw a sufficient amount of current,to maybe drop the voltage again,to a satisfactory level.
Some of these systems can and do,run at 16V+.

Another reason,could be the extra load,causes the load shedding,of an unknown current drawing item,which is the interference generator,and this is why it works.

Measuring voltage at the battery,will not always identify the problem.

I wish you lived next door,my friend,because whether it's a new 200 tonne piece of plant,or an Austin from the 1930's...i live for finding these little foibles ;) i think i wasted my enthusiasm on stuff like this,through my life...instead of investing it,like my pals,on ---- and beer :eek:

Thanks a lot, appreciate you taking the time to help me out here!..... If we have over voltage, from the ACC where I take my live feed from for the image receiver, would it be worth trying to get my live feed from somewhere else instead?
 
It may,but i would want to read that voltage,with a meter,directly where it is drawn,and whilst the receiver is in circuit,just to see what it was,and if there is a difference.

Same goes for the camera feed,although in the end,you may find it is the wireless signal,which will only be short-range,which is being upset.

I suppose if you have the time,you could try the monitor,off another vehicles acc.socket,or even better,a jump-start power pack/alternative power source,and see if that is affected,or what it's range is.

Bearing in mind,where these are made,the power,and what else uses the same RF tech,small wonder any signal makes the journey.

A friend told me,many years back,that if every wireless"connected device",had a single human hair,joining them together- there would be no room left on earth,for an atmosphere :)
 
The issue I had was due to the canbus (apparently) in my Caddy. The picture was clear until the engine was running. Cam was supplied from the reverse light feed, as to me this was the most simple approach. Separation with a relay solved it without any suppression/filtering.

Some help maybe, maybe not.
 
It is Computer analogue network bus system ( controller area network) using thin wires to control the electrical system via the ecu . It does not like bits that should not be there. If it finds additions it throws a dicky fit and tries to lock it out at best out, at worst you can nack the system completely costing a fortune; put very simply .
 
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To be honest it is a pain in the backside . It is so fickle it virtually rules out additions. Repairs and fault finding are nerve racking .
As has been said if within parameters it can be used to trigger a relay.
It is measured in milliamps though. As the saying 'great care must be taken'.
 

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