Routing for bathroom shaver socket | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Routing for bathroom shaver socket in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

J

Jon

Hi,

I'll just start by making it clear that I understand that I'll have to get an electrician in to actually fit a socket in the bathroom, due to regulations.

But since I need to get one in later to install a new consumer unit and do some other tasks like moving light switches I think it makes sense to add it to that list rather than call him in just for one small job.

In the meantime I've got tiling to do, so I either need to know where cables are going to be routed so I can leave that section untiled, or ideally route the cables so I can get all the tiling done and a sparky can just connect up later.

So, as it happens probably the best place (at least ergonomically) for the socket is on a wall which divides the bathroom from the landing, and has a mains socket on it (on the landing side) which is on a ring main. Now it would be fairly easy to gain access to the back of the wallbox that socket is fitted to (this would come out in the corner of the bathroom)

So as far as I can see, the two most likely candidates for running power to a shaver socket in the bathroom would be..

a) spur off from the outside socket, route up near the corner, then across to the shaver socket.

b) spur off from lighting power in the roof, and down to the shaver socket.

Option "a" is probably the easiest (no need to lift up boards in the loft etc).

So, which, if either, would be the correct one?

Regarding RCDs, there are currently none in this property (it still has wire fuses), but as I mentioned earlier I'd be getting a sparky to fit a new consumer unit at the same time.
 
To keep things simple you need a competent, registered spark to do both jobs. So get a few in for quotes. Decide which one to use and let them work with you to agree where the cable is connected and run. RCD protection is mandatory for bathroom circuits, as are for cables buried in walls.

Both jobs are notifable under Part P so you might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
 
Assuming the walls are solid, not hollow, you could install the backbox (special deep double to suit shaver socket) and a piece of oval conduit directly upwards from the box to the loft. Set the conduit deep enough so that you can tile over the top. No need to go any deeper.

When the CU has been changed, get the electrician to run the cable off the lighting circuit through your conduit and install the socket.

It might be worth talking to a local electrician to check that your proposed location is suitable.
 
You can't run cables diagonally across the wall. They must run horizontally or vertically from an accessory.

An electrician wouldn't be too keen on connecting up cables that someone else has installed, as how can he be sure how they were run in?
 
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=c...ics%3Ainstallation_techniques%3Awalls;531;297

Above is a link to an image of where cables can be safely routed
If you decide to run the cable yourself,follow the guide

All the circuits of the bathroom will require Rcd protection,supplementary earth bonding is also required unless certain conditions are met
Running the shaver socket off a ring final would likely mean having overcurrent protection before it feeds that shaver socket

Most work in a Bathroom will be notifiable to the Labc
Work in a Bathroom is considered to be in a special location
Its special because of the greater risk of personal injury to the user

It is for this reason and the reasons regarding the considerations about the adapting of circuits,no Rcd protection, and no information given on the main and earth bonding,which is essential for additions and alterations,that its best to get the electrician around sooner rather than later
 
a) spur off from the outside socket, route up near the corner, then across to the shaver socket

This option wouldn't keep cables in safe zones for a couple of reasons one being you can't run a cable in the corner and two being you can't turn a cable from vertical to horizontal without additional precautions.
 
Think most points have been covered by previous post but either of your options is feasible. Normally I would take a shaver socket off the lighting circuit in the bathroom but you could spur off the ring main using a FCU – manuf instruction for the shaver will tell you what fuse rating you would need to use, normally 5A.

The thing to consider with the shaver is where in the bathroom it will be located as there are specific zone requirements that limit electrical appliances in bathrooms. If the shaver unit is to the BS standard (which it should be) then it can go anywhere other than in the actual shower or bath zones ( Zones 0 and 1). Common sense prevailing that it isn’t going to be subject to water ingress elsewhere!

The shaver would also need to be on a circuit that’s RCD protected but if you are getting a new CU then RCD’s should be fitted as standard for all the circuits.

As for the actual cable runs to/from the light or socket, unless surface mounted they need to be in specific channels to meet regulations and you may have problems with the corner approach you suggest.

I would recommend that if you know who is going to be doing your install you have a word with them about the art of the possible and scope out what he is comfortable with you doing before the shaver goes live! He is the man (or woman!) who will be signing off the paperwork and if hes not happy he wont be connecting up the shaver unit.
 
This option wouldn't keep cables in safe zones for a couple of reasons one being you can't run a cable in the corner and two being you can't turn a cable from vertical to horizontal without additional precautions.

I'm a little confused now, since the diagrams Des 56 linked to seem to clearly state that you can route cables vertically within 150mm of a corner. That in fact was why I originally proposed that routing. Safe zone up the wall, safe zone across to the socket.
 
I think what is being allude to is that if you come from a socket outside the bathroom and into the bathroom using routes up walls and across walls it may not be feasible to meet regulations. Its very difficult for us to tell exactly what is possible just by a written description -- it needs the old mark 1 eyeball to really understand it.

Thats why I would suggest you need some advise from an electrician on the ground who can see the problem and explain the art of the possible -- it could well be that what you are describing is totally correct!!
 
In order not to hold up tiling just install a plastic conduit in a chase from the flush box to the roof space. For a standard shaver socket you will need a 45mm deep double box installed vertically. Use 20mm round plastic conduit,and run it in line with your box,make sure it is not joined,and enters a 20mm K/O leaving 2-3 mm inside the box. Make sure it finishes in an accessible place 2 or 3 inches above the ceiling level in the roof space for future connection to the lighting circuit. That way your electrician will have an easy job wiring the shaver point and supplementary bonding and you are not getting involved in any wiring.
 

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