If you get it calibrated, and immediately start logging regular checks of a set of known resistances etc, then if the readings stay the same you know the thing is still working fine.
If it drifts, get it re-calibrated.
When you get it back again, if it's still at odds with your check box then you need a new check box.
You can buy a cheap card.
You can buy one of those Seaward jobbies that cost as much as your b****y tester itself.
Or you can roll your own, which has got to be more satisfying.
A small hobby box, some good quality 4mm sockets, a bunch of resistors - low values for continuity and high values for IR (make sure they are 500V rated).
Put a plug and flex on the box supplying a 1363 socket in it, with a switchable 1
Ω resistor in the cpc. That's for checking your loop tester - you can plug it in anywhere and do a test, doesn't matter what the reading is as long as it goes up by 1Ω when you switch the resistor in.
If you want you can put an RCD in the box as well for doing those checks using a non RCD socket at home, rather than annoying the cat by tripping yours.
Job's a good-un.
PS: This is the sort of item I've described, apart from the RCD