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Evening gents

After a quick question about a kitchen rewire (Im an industrial electrical engineer, not been a house basher for a good 15 years)

Im moving the cooker from one side of the kitchen to the other and running a brand new supply from the consumer unit. Im also moving from Gas hob to a 30amp induction hob, kitchen fitter (not the best source of Advice I know) has suggested running 2 6mm feeds to be safe than sorry and have side by side 45amp switches, one for each, I dont know if thats overkill but Im happy to do it if thats whats needed.

Run is about 15-20 meters through joists.

Would that be the best way to do it or would a 10mm run help.

Cheers
[automerge]1570119919[/automerge]
Hob is this - Electrolux 60cm 4 Zone Induction Hob Black KIV6446 | Wickes.co.uk - https://www.wickes.co.uk/Electrolux-60cm-4-Zone-Induction-Hob-Black-KIV6446/p/305046

Cooker is Electrolux Multifunction Single Oven KOFEH40 | Wickes.co.uk - https://www.wickes.co.uk/Electrolux-Multifunction-Single-Oven-KOFEH40/p/206179
 
Last edited:
Without the appliances details it would be guessing at advising. Personally running two separate final circuits for these two appliances is not a bad idea, just gives you flexibility, as long as you have spare ways in your CU.

Post details of your prospective appliances and further advice could be done by members.

Where do you live, do you need to achieve compliance?
 
If you are underpressure to get some cables in situ then I normally just whack in 6mm

Quite often once I see the appliances 4mm would have done but if in doubt put in 6mm
 
Your links don’t display max load. Google some more, and you’ll find that info, then apply diversity to each appliance, then calculate your max load for supply. But as said, dependant on where each appliance is located, two separate final circuits might be simpler?

Have you thought about compliance with building regs, dependant on where you live?
 
Hi - just looking at these appliances
  • oven is 3.5kW at 240V, so 14.6A
  • cook top is 7350W, whether 230V or 240V I couldn’t find. So it’s either 32A or 30.6A.
So a total load of 46.6A max. OSG diversity guide for domestic use says 10A plus 30% of remainder so 10+0.3x36.6= 21A.
Or perhaps 10A for each appliance and 30% of the remainder, giving 20+0.3x26.6 = 28A.
Either way, I’m thinking the existing 32A circuit could be used and joyfully you wouldn’t need a Part P notification :) .
 
Hi - just looking at these appliances
  • oven is 3.5kW at 240V, so 14.6A
  • cook top is 7350W, whether 230V or 240V I couldn’t find. So it’s either 32A or 30.6A.
So a total load of 46.6A max. OSG diversity guide for domestic use says 10A plus 30% of remainder so 10+0.3x36.6= 21A.
Or perhaps 10A for each appliance and 30% of the remainder, giving 20+0.3x26.6 = 28A.
Either way, I’m thinking the existing 32A circuit could be used and joyfully you wouldn’t need a Part P notification :) .

is that what you would do in your own home?
over rated is normally better than under rated imo.
 
a single 32A circuit using 6.0mm cable, split to both oven and hob has sufficed for 60+ years, it still will do the job. diversity is the key.
 
is that what you would do in your own home?
over rated is normally better than under rated imo.
Hi - if I had this situation at my home I’d either leave it as is, or perhaps replace with a single 10mm circuit if the appliances were collocated. If not collocated, then by all means put in a 2nd circuit for the oven.
I agree that overloaded circuits are no good and for a shop (say) the diversity calcs give a different result.
 

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