Shower choice

[mick21]

Hi Guys
just a bit of advice please,can anyone recommend a decent shower, whats the difference between a 8.5kw shower and say a 10.5kw,would you get a better flow from the 10.5kw,or doesnt it work like that could someone please explain. Its going to be wired in 10mm cable with a rcbo fitted at the consumer unt.

 

[Liamsparks]

Mira Sport talking a bit of money but their fantastic showers. High pressure too!

 

[telectrix]

i'd stick with 8.5kW, wired in 6mm. beats me how everyone bangs on about saving the planet by using cfl rubbish to save a few watts, then go for the biggest, most wasteful showers available.

 

[andrew692003]

I always work with Triton. T80Z comes in 8.5, 9.5 and 10.5. Talking about £150 -£200 between the range. They are easy to install and spare parts are easy to come by. Also they are far easier for changing, cutouts, cans, regulators than any showers I have ever worked with and I've seen a few in the last 20 years. A cheap but good option is the Triton Sambada for around £90, great value and much the same internals as a T80Z but you only get a white rail and hose and a small head for that price.

Also the difference between an 8.5 and 9.5 is next to nothing, in fact you would never know the difference in terms of power and heat. I decided to fit a 10.5kw in my house after I had rewired and was expecting great things after using a 8.5kw for years. In all honesty there is little difference!!!

Cheers

 

[Geordie Spark]

If you have a combi boiler I'd run a mixer shower (something like a Mira 415 or Mira Excell) straight from that & forget about an electric shower.

I find that even a very basic shower run from a combi is better than most electric ones.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

Triton T80Z is a good budget option, Mira Sport is the mid-range choice and Mira Advance the top end choice. Mira and Triton models are reliable and have good spares back-up if required. Though these days there is little margin in shower repairs, so like for like replacement is my usual option. The pumped power shower models are only worth fitting if you don't have sufficient 'head of water' to pressure a standard model.
As Geordie says a thermostatic mixer shower off a combi-boiler is a far better option than any of the electric options.

 

[PC Electrics]

For a cheap shower a Triton T70Si (or one of their 'named' versions). For better quality Mira Sport 9.0

In theory a more powerful shower will give you a better flow rate at the desired temperature. However, the flow rate is also determined by how much water can get up the pipes. So, local pressure conditions, length of pipe and number of bends all conspire to reduce the flow. I've sometimes found no improvement with a more powerful shower simply because the water feed isn't up to it. And conversely, I've managed to improve the operation of 8.5 versions by modifying pipework to 'smooth out' bends (sweeping bends are much better than elbows in this respect). Also fit a 'full bore' isolator - normal ones cut the flow aperture to about 10mm.

 

[Geordie Spark]

For a cheap shower a Triton T70Si (or one of their 'named' versions). For better quality Mira Sport 9.0

In theory a more powerful shower will give you a better flow rate at the desired temperature. However, the flow rate is also determined by how much water can get up the pipes. So, local pressure conditions, length of pipe and number of bends all conspire to reduce the flow. I've sometimes found no improvement with a more powerful shower simply because the water feed isn't up to it. And conversely, I've managed to improve the operation of 8.5 versions by modifying pipework to 'smooth out' bends (sweeping bends are much better than elbows in this respect). Also fit a 'full bore' isolator - normal ones cut the flow aperture to about 10mm.

Very true.

There are calculations that are -or should be - done to select the appropriate size of pipe and there are tables to be used to help with this task ..... just as there are with selecting cables.

Every time you use an elbow, you are adding the equivalent of half a metre's worth of reistance to the installation therefore a swept bend is always to be preferred.

 

[Paul.M]

I choose the Mira Advanced when I refitted my bathroom out last year, good shower if you have a good water pressure. Three different flow settings and I up graded the head for one with more sprinkle options, best electric showers I've every had.

 

[Jdskinner82]

Very true.

There are calculations that are -or should be - done to select the appropriate size of pipe and there are tables to be used to help with this task ..... just as there are with selecting cables.

Every time you use an elbow, you are adding the equivalent of half a metre's worth of reistance to the installation therefore a swept bend is always to be preferred.

Phi, we are just about to replace our shower and I could do with your advise if possible? We are after a shower to replace our failed triton trance 9.5 kw.

We have the flow pressure drop a few times a week and I wanted to know to resolve this would it be a good idea to make my right angle bends swept? If so how do I achieve this? I currently have at least 3 right angles probably another coming from the mains.

Also would I notice much difference dropping to an 8.5?

Sorry for high jacking this but saw the swept bends and thought it could help me
Thanks Jon

 

[telectrix]

don't think you've hijacked it mate, the last post was 9 months ago. for the work involved altering the pipework, i'd forget it. best way forward, with low nmains pressure , is to feed from a header tank in the loft with a pump .

 

[Geordie Spark]

Phi, we are just about to replace our shower and I could do with your advise if possible? We are after a shower to replace our failed triton trance 9.5 kw.

We have the flow pressure drop a few times a week and I wanted to know to resolve this would it be a good idea to make my right angle bends swept? If so how do I achieve this? I currently have at least 3 right angles probably another coming from the mains.

Also would I notice much difference dropping to an 8.5?

Sorry for high jacking this but saw the swept bends and thought it could help me
Thanks Jon

The cheapest way is to buy a Bending Spring which you shove inside the pipe which you then bend to the required angle over your knee. The spring prevents the pipe from kinking.

The way I do it is with a Pipe Bender which costs considerably more than the spring - £40+

If you have water pressure issues, the first thing to look at is your Stop Cock - (under your kitchen sink?) make sure that it's turned fully on, then maybe ask your water company to make sure that THEIR stop cock - in the street outside your house is fully on.

 

[Geordie Spark]

don't think you've hijacked it mate, the last post was 9 months ago. for the work involved altering the pipework, i'd forget it. best way forward, with low nmains pressure , is to feed from a header tank in the loft with a pump .

Thanks Tel ..... having just supped 3 bottles of red wine, I hadn't noticed how old this thread is !!!

I agree with you re: header tank with pump if all else fails.

 

[DNS1]

Soooo many variables with showers...

I replaced my 8.5kW (forgot the model) with a Creda 10.5kW with push-button start stop and it was a vast improvement, particularly in winter when the incoming water is so cold. Best option for me as I'm often away for a week or so and come back to an empty flat and no hot water, so instant hot shower is great. However, in my area the water pressure is pretty consistent and there is no-one to run the kitchen tap and scald me when the pressure drops!

The water for my bath and basin are from a standard cylinder and very low header tank, so a pump has been fitted. Pressure is great (and 100% consistent) and I'd use these for the shower if it wasn't for the reason above. Also means the water is still available if the supply is cut or the stop-tap shut for some reason.

With regards pipe bending, a smooth large radius bend is aways going to be better than a 90 degree elbow, but I'm not sure just "how much" better! If you want to give it a go, a spring is only about £3 from Toolstation.

Personally I'm planning on getting a proper pipe bender as a cheap one is only about £30, will make life easier as often the alternative involves the solder and big scary flamey thing! Plus, it can be used for round steel conduit when you get back to the sparking game!

 

[mhar]

If you have a water cylinder I would try and go for a pump. You have to fit a surrey or a sussex valve (can never remember which one off the top of my head) and have a separate hot and cold feed to the shower where you use a mixer. Sometimes this can be impractical though.
Another option is to have a mains pressure hot water system. Absolutely brilliant, hot and cold at equal pressure all over the house, but will require a second motorised valve controlled by a second cylinder stat as a failsafe device plus a blowoff valve. Bit of work and initial expense but absolutely brilliant