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Pete999

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A friend of a Friend asked me to go and look at a Shower that didn't work, sure enough it didn't, I took the switch off, and the connections were, to say the least a bit iffy, cores cut out, tried my best to find out who did it and after some detective work he came clean and admitted it was him, changed the switch as a safeguard, all OK until this morning, shower packed up, got there did some checks, found the switch was faulty, he said this was the second time the switch failed, he was leaving the shower switched on at the shower itself but switching it on and off via the pull cord, I reckon switching the load via the pull cord damaged the switch, any thoughts?
 
Which reg states showers need a local isolator, out of interest?
I have no idea, it just didn't seem right to me , anyway I would rather leave the pull cord where it was rather than fill the hole in the ceiling up, anotherthing my Mrs would have gone Harpic if there was not a switch, it's one of her things at night makng sure everything is switched off, bless:tonguewink:
 
Nope you are quite right. There's no regulation in BS7671 to say 'when installing an electric shower for Mrs Pete999, there must be a form of local double pole isolation, with 3mm gap blah blah'.

537.3.2.1 suggests a circuit breaker is suitable means of isolation, although further guidance on this, can be obtained from Table 53.4 note (5). There's others, which I can't see the point of arguing over. Only TN supplies, think your up a gum tree with TT, but don't quote me.

134.1.1 'Good workmanship etc etc. The installation of electrical equipment shall take account of manufacturers instructions'.

I believe most, if not all domestic shower manufacturers recommend a double pole 'switch' ceiling mounted, or wall mounted in an adjacent room.

Seems like the manufactures see it as a good idea, who am I to argue?
 
I'd like MW post, but I've no longer got the ability - another loss with age? :)
I'm so used to seeing the pull switch I can't imagine not having it. Myself, I wouldn't rely on one for safe isolation, but I think manufacturers spec them for customer convenience and reassurance etc.
 
I don't know why people insist of using the pull cord, when a shower has a perfectly serviceable on off switch. Same people don't keep switching their electric oven on & off at the wall :mad:
problem there is you need to get in the shower to turn it on and for the first minute it's bloody freezing.
 
You could try one of these;

:) [ElectriciansForums.net] Shower pull switch opperating on load
 
MK Yes it was. I had been talking with Glenn about it, decided not to ask for the letter to be out there on the Forum, as I didn't want to upset/undermine some members, but it seems it was a daft request as many folk will put 2 and 2 together and come to the same conclusion you did when they read PE still nice to be in print at last, got a sort of book I have written about my life as a Sparks but I need to contact my old employer to get it vetted.
Book as well Pete now I bet that will be interesting, how about a film with Robin Askwith in the lead roll, know what I mean;)
 
Every so often someone says a shower or cooker needn't have a local DP isolator, but as I've said before BS7671 is the minimum standard we should adhere to and it's common sense to have an easy way to switch off anything electrical without faffing about at the CU. And if say a neutral to earth fault developed on a dual RCD board at the shower you'd lose half of the installation until the cable in the shower was disconnected.
 
I would imagine the pull switch would only have a 10 or 15 amp rating ?
If this is not suficient, try using a pull switch to control a 30a contactor.
that way the contactor does all the hard work ?
What a 45Amp pull switch only has a possible 10amp rating? and use a contactor? bit of a weird statement if I may be so bold.
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
With respect, you should get out more then.
45A or 50A pull switches for showers are as common as muck

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