Single phase motor & DOL starter

[bonzo]

Hi all Any industrial electricians in the house ? Having decided to move my old Harrison L5 lathe to a more suitable location in my workshop, I have taken the opportunity to give the lathe a full re-paint & light re-furb ( God knows it needs it ) As part of the re-furb I thought that I would replace the Heath Robbinson 1/4 hp single phase motor that was on the machine when I bought it. Now it just happens that I have a large good quality 1.5 hp single phase motor going spare, part of my late fathers kit & was a spare for his milling machine. A huge bonus is that it is a direct fit to the lathes existing motor mount. No idea of the age of this motor but I guess it can't be that ancient as it has a 28mm metric pulley shaft. I am no stranger to a little domestic wiring & have wired up the odd motor or Two over the years but I am in the dark on this one, hampered further by the lack of manfacturers wiring diagram. Here is a picture of the motors terminal connections The information on the motors data plate is as follows: Stayrite single phase ac motor HP: 1.5 RPM: 1430 Volts: 2**/240 ( * Dink in plate & can't read the numbers ) C/S: 50 Rating: Cont Amps: 9.5 Class E Single capacitor motor ( Cap is wired to A2 & Z1 ) Here is what I can make out from the faded diagram on the back of the connector cover. Single phase capacitor motor Motor to be operated from a potential relay starter T1 & T2 are the ****at leads ( * Can't read the letters ) Hopefully the photo shows the terminal markings clearly, if not they are marked T1 & T2, A1 & A2, Z1 & Z2 I was told that a Potential relay starter is also know as a DOL ( Direct online starter ) This was purchaced from an online retailer Alas, no wiring diagram for this either No idea where the loose ends of the wires go ?? One is wired to terminal 5 ( L3 ) of the relay & the other is wired to terminal 14 ( NO ) of the relay No idea where the short link wire wire should go. Looking at the motors current rating, is that 10A thermal overload going to be up to the job ?? Any help would be most appreciated. Got a sneaky felling that if I have to call a suitably qualified industrial electrcian in to wire it all up it is likely to be more cost effective to just go out & buy a new Cap start/Cap run motor . I have no real problem with simply buying a new motor but it would be a real pitty to throw away a good motor that will be well suited for the job. Ultimately I would like to wire this motor up via my Dewhurst Tye A reverse switch but that can wait for another day, just be nice to get this wired up & running. Thanks for taking the time to read this folks

 

[Knobhead]

I don’t know how you’ve posted this, but the end of every sentence is cut off.

Harrison’s used to mount a reversing switch just under the tray at the headstock end, it was a leaver like the clutch that extended above the tray with 4 positions. Off, FWD, Off, REV But until I can sort the motor connections out that can wait. That is if it’s fitted.

Give me a bit of time and I’ll sort the motor and contactor connections for you. The contactor is a basic Telemecanique unit, it will need two if your machine doesn’t have the built in switch.

Lucky you having a Harrison! The first lathe I ever used 40 years ago. I love them, robust and yet capable of the most delicate work. The second one I worked on had the hydraulic form follower fitted to the cross slide, a swine to set up and weird to see working. The lathe ran in reverse as the tool post was on the far side of the bedway.

The third one had the taper follower, again reversed for the work piece.

 

[bonzo]

Hi Tony

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.

I copied my post from word & pasted it in, probably not the best way to do it.

The original motor was controlled by a standard two button on/off switch ( The modern type such as you would find on a pillar drill and the likes )
I do have one of the older MEM type start stop switches here if needed.

The job would be a doddle if I had a new Cap start/Cap run motor here but must admit I am out of my depth with this particular type of set up.

As for the Harrison lathe, built in 1946 still going strong & still turns out some good work.
Bought it a couple of years ago, went for the Harrison as that is what I used at school many moons ago.

Quite happy to repost any information that may be missing.

Once again, thanks Tony

 

[telectrix]

post reads ok to me tony, unfortunately my knowledge of motors is not up to your's so i'll leave the technical side to you.

 

[Knobhead]

The information I need is there so don’t worry, it’s just I have to go out soon so will look later.

 

[silva.foxx]

I don’t know how you’ve posted this, but the end of every sentence is cut off.

Tony... try [ctrl] + [-] to zoom out a little.

.

 

[Knobhead]

Tony... try [ctrl] + [-] to zoom out a little.

.

I can't read it then! 21" monitor at 800 X 600 and I strugle to read it.

 

[Knobhead]

Bonzo, is anything connected to T1 & T2?

 

[bonzo]

Hi Tony

No nothing connected to T1 or T2 of the motor ( Other than the motor winding wires )

I have done a very basic continuity test on the 3 pairs of winding wires, T1 & T2 are a pair , A1 & A2 are a pair, Z1 & Z2 are a pair.

The motors wiring diagram on the underside of the junction box is badly faded, part of it reads " T1 & T2 are the ***AT leads "
Being so badly faded it could read " T1 & T2 are the ***RT leads " ( Could this possibly refer to Start leads ? )

If you were meaning the DOL's thermal overload, nothing conected to the T1 or T2 terminals.

Thanks for taking the time to look, it is much appreciated

 

[Knobhead]

Do you want the motor to reverse?

I’ve done a drawing ready for you but I’ve just got to convert it to a .JPG file so that you can see it. It’s a .SKD vector drawing at the moment.

 

[bonzo]

Hi Tony

Yes it would be nice to be able to use the redundant Dewhurst type A reverse switch that came with the lathe :cool3:

Not essential though, I would just be happy to get the old girl running again without resorting to buying a new motor or admiting defeat & fitting the old motor back on :crazy:

I have this diagram for the reverse switch

I have no idea if this diagram is even relevant to the Stayrite motor that I would like to fit !!

The capacitor on the Stayrite motor being spit between the start & run windings has confused the heck out of me.

Thanks for the time you are putting into this one Tony

 

[Knobhead]

Here you go.
If the motor runs the wrong way swap the links to T1 & T2

View attachment 7198

 

[Knobhead]

Will look at your new drawing later

 

[bonzo]

Thank you so much Tony

That has certainly made some sense of the motor terminals & the DOL unit.

I will scuttle off out to the workshop & get straight to it :smile5:

 

[Knobhead]

Have fun and DON’T BLOW YOURSELF UP!