Socket not working anymore.

[RDB85]

So last night I noticed that the Socket behind the TV was not working. Plugged in my Kewtech plug tester and nothing. So turned off the MCB for the downstairs sockets. Undone the Socket and its been spurred using new colours from the 13A FCU. Changed the 13A fuse in the FCU, checked the cables and nothing seems out of the ordinary.

There is a socket below that which is wired in Old Colours, which has been there forever. I am just wondering if there is an issue with the FCU, or the wiring itself.

Screwed it all back and then turned the MCB back on. Our house is currently wired in Old Colours, with a Square D CCU. Anyway plugged my socket tester in and again nothing. Would anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Is there any test equipment I could buy to allow me to do some testing, other than a Test Metre as i don't have a lot of money at the moment.

 

[RDB85]

what area are you from

Liverpool.

 

[tony clark]

to far for me i would have given you a couple of hours to help
sorry

 

[RDB85]

I will see what cash I can get together as I have seen this: Kewtech KT117 True RMS Digital Multimeter 600V - https://www.screwfix.com/p/kewtech-kt117-true-rms-digital-multimeter-600v/5205p

Would that be okay?

 

[Pete999]

I will see what cash I can get together as I have seen this: Kewtech KT117 True RMS Digital Multimeter 600V - https://www.screwfix.com/p/kewtech-kt117-true-rms-digital-multimeter-600v/5205p

Would that be okay?

for what purpose?

 

[DPG]

You don't need a true RMS Multimeter for what you are doing. A voltage tester, an MFT and a copy of GN3 would be your best start in my opinion.

And keep asking questions.

 

[tony clark]

look on ebay for a kewtec kt111 auto ranging multimeter ideal for beginners
roughly £25

 

[Dave5678]

The first tool that you need is a voltage indicator and proving unit. Once you have that you can prove that something is safe to work on, but you can also use it to test where you have voltage and where you don't.

In this case the smoking gun is that both the socket that isn't working and the light that maybe isn't working are fed from a socket that you've recently changed so that is probably a good thing to look at in your investigations. Three wires are more difficult to terminate than two and so a bit more care is needed. However, this does pose the question as to whether it is a ring final circuit you're working on as an unfused spur can only supply one accessory.

 

[RDB85]

The first tool that you need is a voltage indicator and proving unit. Once you have that you can prove that something is safe to work on, but you can also use it to test where you have voltage and where you don't.

In this case the smoking gun is that both the socket that isn't working and the light that maybe isn't working are fed from a socket that you've recently changed so that is probably a good thing to look at in your investigations. Three wires are more difficult to terminate than two and so a bit more care is needed. However, this does pose the question as to whether it is a ring final circuit you're working on as an unfused spur can only supply one accessory.

Right okay. I will start with a Voltage Indicator and Proving Unit. See how much they are. I have got my FCU also. Well it could be a ring final circuit, as all of the sockets downstairs are on one mcb. There is another for the boiler and one for the old immersion heater, that we no longer have. I will check the mcb rating to see if it is a ring.

But that fcu for the light has not been used for a number of years. Its an old alleyway light, that was put in. The additional socket for the tv was added a year ago. All were working okay. I will check the connections for the socket with the new faceplate on, just to see if there are any issues. A bit of sheath in the terminals. The kewtech socket tester did not report any issues and all three lights were green. It is an odd one, for me being new its experience of trial and error and asking questions.

 

[RDB85]

Ive found this: Megger Safe Isolation Kit - https://www.test-meter.co.uk/megger-tpt320-and-mpu690-safe-isolation-kit/?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoMSJspWN4wIViEHTCh0ZGgBfEAkYCSABEgJj4PD_BwE

 

[Deleted member 26818]

I use a Fluke T3, never owned a proving unit.

 

[Pete999]

Right okay. I will start with a Voltage Indicator and Proving Unit. See how much they are. I have got my FCU also. Well it could be a ring final circuit, as all of the sockets downstairs are on one mcb. There is another for the boiler and one for the old immersion heater, that we no longer have. I will check the mcb rating to see if it is a ring.

But that fcu for the light has not been used for a number of years. Its an old alleyway light, that was put in. The additional socket for the tv was added a year ago. All were working okay. I will check the connections for the socket with the new faceplate on, just to see if there are any issues. A bit of sheath in the terminals. The kewtech socket tester did not report any issues and all three lights were green. It is an odd one, for me being new its experience of trial and error and asking questions.

Checking the Breaker (OCPD) will not prove the circuit is a Ring Final (RFC) to prove it is a RFC You need to carry out the appropriate dead testing.

(

 

[DPG]

I use a Fluke T3, never owned a proving unit.

I think we should be advising him to do the right thing and get the right equipment to start out with though.

 

[DPG]

Do some basic dead testing and draw out the circuit as you go. See what is connected to what. Post your diagram on here when you've done it.

Are you OK doing basic continuity tests once you have a meter? Do you own a copy of guidance note 3?

 

[Pete999]

OP you could try looking at the YouTube videos on Testing etc, the guy I sent you a video of is very good, there are many equally good presenters in there, worth a look if you are really interested, give it a bash.

 

[RDB85]

Do some basic dead testing and draw out the circuit as you go. See what is connected to what. Post your diagram on here when you've done it.

Are you OK doing basic continuity tests once you have a meter? Do you own a copy of guidance note 3?

I’ve got the regs and an OSG. Where would you get GN3 from?