J

jase31

Normally, I would not think about putting a socket under a sink, but the kitchen layout is restrictive, and power needs to be provided to a washing machine next to the sink (not enough room behind for the socket) However I far as I can recall, there is not restriction of placing a socket under the sink. Im I correct?

Trying to think of other options, would it be worth using a weatherproof enclosure which would protect the socket in the event of any leak, or alternatively extend the washing machine flex to allow it under the plinth and connect to a cupboard 1 metre down the cupboard run. The socket would then not be next to the appliance, but could share a double for washing machine/dishwasher.

How would others deal with this?
 
well, having seen a housing estate built with the CUs all under the kitchen sinks, i would say a socket there is no big deal.
 
Then there won't be enough room for the hoses either.
sometimes you can find the correct position where there is clearance, like you say, thewre is room for hoses. but. hoses contain water and hoses can leak, so...,. no better than fitting under the sink, n'est pas?
 
I have no problem putting under the sink, it can leak just as much as behind the appliance. Its the same pipe.
I tend to put above pipe work and to the front if i can. they tend to have only 2mts of flex on anyway so most times you don't have a choice.
 
then stick it wherever you can. as des said, high and towards the front.
 
Normally, I would not think about putting a socket under a sink, but the kitchen layout is restrictive, and power needs to be provided to a washing machine next to the sink (not enough room behind for the socket) However I far as I can recall, there is not restriction of placing a socket under the sink. Im I correct?

Trying to think of other options, would it be worth using a weatherproof enclosure which would protect the socket in the event of any leak, or alternatively extend the washing machine flex to allow it under the plinth and connect to a cupboard 1 metre down the cupboard run. The socket would then not be next to the appliance, but could share a double for washing machine/dishwasher.

How would others deal with this?

isnt a pattress ip rated!!! and yes under a sink is ok but you are all thinking of water but unless theres a leak theres no problem and if there is its rectified
 
Many years ago we used to consider the practice of *brace yourselves* drilling a hole through the worktop, removing the plug, passing cable through said hole, replacing the plugtop and plugging the cable into a socket above. If the machine had to be pulled out completely we just removed the plugtop.
Apologies to those who may consider this practice barbaric....
 
what's wrong with that? :66::smartass2:
 
Many years ago we used to consider the practice of *brace yourselves* drilling a hole through the worktop, removing the plug, passing cable through said hole, replacing the plugtop and plugging the cable into a socket above. If the machine had to be pulled out completely we just removed the plugtop.
Apologies to those who may consider this practice barbaric....

apology not accepted i cringe when i see things like that are you a plumber in disguise :aureola:
 
Most appliances nowadays come with moulded plugs, so you'd have to cut the plug off and put a rewireable one on, which introduces the debate as to whether or not that invalidates the warranty.
 
If it's a built in appliance doesn't the plug have to be accessible? ie in the unit next to or above the appliance?
 
a means of isolation should be accessible, this can be the plug or FCU/DPswitch,
 
a means of isolation should be accessible, this can be the plug or FCU/DPswitch,

Thought so, the majority of customers we go to these days tho dont really want 15 switches above the worktop to isolate their fridge, oven, microwave, washer, tap, dryer, dishwasher, mincer, warmer, whatever else they have to assist them in making beans on toast.
 
Thought so, the majority of customers we go to these days tho dont really want 15 switches above the worktop to isolate their fridge, oven, microwave, washer, tap, dryer, dishwasher, mincer, warmer, whatever else they have to assist them in making beans on toast.
Just fit pull switches instead.
 
Surely means of isolation can be a mcb, therefore do away with those banks of switches above counter.

Though technically you're right, not always convenient to head off to the consumer unit every time the washing machine has finished and you want to switch off the supply. :stuart:
 
Most appliances nowadays come with moulded plugs, so you'd have to cut the plug off and put a rewireable one on, which introduces the debate as to whether or not that invalidates the warranty.

Not this old warranty chestnut again. What is there to debate from past experience of moulded plugs they are an inferior method of connection to a 13A socket. Had to chop a rather badly melted one off an 18 month old washing machine last week and replace the 13A socket as well as the plug

The only issue I am aware of with warranty work is the safe isolation to work on the appliance, the appliance engineers view is that not being able to unplug it means it can't be "properly isolated" and therefore the repair is refused
 

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Socket under sink - ok or avoid
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Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations
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jase31,
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Peter J,
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