Solutions to light switch dilemma

[littlespark]

Hope you can understand this... i really should have taken photos...

OK, bedroom lightswitch. Don't know if its neutral loop at switch, or at ceiling rose... but shouldn't matter.

A joiner has made some built in wardrobes, where the end panel is now coming out from the wall between the doorway and the switch... So the switch is now inside the wardrobe.

Should be a simple enough job to extend the cables at the switch box, and fit the switch along the wardrobe end panel...

The question is how do i make it look good from inside the wardrobe.

I can cut a box sized hole in the end panel, and fit a 12mm deep box, but its going to be seen from inside.

Very low profile 100mm wide trunking if i can get it... or get the joiner to make something to hide the cables?

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Hope you can understand this... i really should have taken photos...

OK, bedroom lightswitch. Don't know if its neutral loop at switch, or at ceiling rose... but shouldn't matter.

A joiner has made some built in wardrobes, where the end panel is now coming out from the wall between the doorway and the switch... So the switch is now inside the wardrobe.

Should be a simple enough job to extend the cables at the switch box, and fit the switch along the wardrobe end panel...

The question is how do i make it look good from inside the wardrobe.

I can cut a box sized hole in the end panel, and fit a 12mm deep box, but its going to be seen from inside.

Very low profile 100mm wide trunking if i can get it... or get the joiner to make something to hide the cables?

Does the wardrobe have a back to it, or is it open to the plastered wall?

 

[littlespark]

Does the wardrobe have a back to it, or is it open to the plastered wall?

open to wall.... Can access the switch easy enough, but the extended cable will have to be surface. Dont want to just have clipped cable and the back of a backbox showing

 

[pirate]

I'm tempted to say Quinetic...

 

[7029 dave]

If the LN is at the switch and pair is going to light then Quinetic will be nice and easy.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Where would you house the receiver if going quinetic?

 

[pirate]

Depends on how it's wired....anywhere there is a L and N feeding the light...
and on another point, how do you people keep the cpc continuous as the receivers don't have a cpc parking terminal?

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Depends on how it's wired....anywhere there is a L and N feeding the light...
and on another point, how do you people keep the cpc continuous as the receivers don't have a cpc parking terminal?

IIRC you can just about cram a little white 2 way wago into the enclosed section of the receiver.

Otherwise, leave the CPCs long, sleeve and fold them back along the sheath, and connect outside the enclosure with a wago. Non compliant I suppose, being <4mm2, but not something I lose sleep about.

 

[SparkySy]

I would say quinetic too!
You can squeeze in a mini white 2 way or orange 3 way wago inside the terminal housing but it's just bonkers that they don't provide a terminal for the cpc's!

 

[timhoward]

This might be one for the new-ish switch with integrated receiver....that only needs PL and SL, no neutral needed.
Change the switch in the wardrobe for one of these:

Quinetic 1 Gang Wireless Switch c/w Built In Receiver - White | Quinetic (QURS1W)

Fit a new switch wherever.

 

[i=p/u]

I'd say take 3 core from old switch position to new switch position and let joiner cover it if only small gap/slice of same material..

Nothing wrong with little Pvc trunking inside cupboard, suface box, some painters mate and wipes...

Send a pic when you done whatever you decide

 

[littlespark]

The quinetic would be a good solution, but i thought with the short distance involved.... half metre at best.... be just as quick and cheap to use cable.

Im going on monday to do this and a number of other jobs, so ill remember to take photographs

 

[Electro-tech]

How about leaving the switch, fit a smart bulb, switch it on & control from an app on your phone, most people are glued to their phone, or ask Alexa.

 

[nicebutdim]

I'd say take 3 core from old switch position to new switch position and let joiner cover it if only small gap/slice of same material..

Good point. If a wardrobe has been built with the intention that it accommodates a switch, then provision should be made for cable and box.

 

[littlespark]

Jobs done. Here are photos as promised, and not a quinetic switch in sight.

Inside of the wardrobe. End panel is ply. You can see the switch and the open door. Why wasn’t it just made a little shorter……

Outside the wardrobe. Built right up against the door frame.

Cut a square hole with my handy dandy multi tool. Nice new sharp blade. Pre drilled the corners. That’s the back side of a 15mm box. Just fits within the width of the ply.

Front of box. Perfectly flush.

Decided on a couple lengths of 38x16 mini trunking to hide the box. If they paint the inside of the cabinet… it’ll never be seen.
2 widths at 38mm covers the box perfectly.

Just put the old switch on here, and a blanking plate on the old box to cover a joint. They were talking about decorating and getting a fancier switch. Was only a t&e at the old switch, so just extended it through.

Might have been a squeeze if it was a looped feed, switchwire out and a neutral joint in the box…. But then, I would have left all that in the old box, and still only brought one t&e through.