Some advice please

[sjm]

I have to install some sockets into a fire rated partition wall. Fire rated pasterboard on both sides which extends up above the suspended ceiling to the solid ceiling above. Any ideas about how to install my cables, which are coming from the void between the suspended ceiling and solid ceiling, into this wall would be appreciated. Also what precautions should I take with the socket boxes?

Thanks in advance
Steve

 

[Adam W]

I'm pretty sure you can just do it 'normally' unless there is thermal insulation in the middle, in which case you might want to consider using conduit.
If you're putting sockets on either side make sure they're not in the same void ie back to back.

 

[mylocalelectric]

Hi Steve, I think maybe you are thinking to much into this! With regards to running your cables it would be no different to running cables in general, What I mean by that is just follow the regs for that! And the issue with the fire rated plasterboard, The same conditions apply as to fitting down lights. Remember! We do not fit fire rated down lights for any other reason than if you cut into a fire barrier ceiling or indeed wall, we must make sure that we keep the integrity of the fire barrier by installing a suitable fire guard that is appropriate to the accessories we fit!
So to recap, Run your cables in compliance with BS7671 and keep in line with building regs for cutting into the fire board / barrier.

 

[Sparky Ninja]

Have a read through this thread chief..

http://www.electriciansforums.net/e...ctrical-forum/28151-fire-rated-backboxes.html

 

[mylocalelectric]

@widdler Nice one! I felt that making Steve think about it a little would get his mind working lol! Though giving him the link will surely help him hahaha....

 

[sjm]

Thanks guys that's pretty much what I was thinking, seal any entry holes with fire rated acrylic sealer and use intumescant liners in my dryline boxes.

 

[grantr37]

yep, use the intumescent pads in the backboxes, for the suspended ceiling void, I would use metal conduit or metal lined copex, seal up all holes in the drywall/plasterboard with intumescent sealant such as Hilti CP101 sealant, if coming off from trunking you could use metal conduit as far as the first few inches inside the wall with metal clad copex to the backbox to save taking down and replacing the drywall....its just like when you have finished a site and the painters have done 3 coats of white, then the customer/architect asks for extra sockets...

The most ideal thing would be to use metal conduit all the way but that wont be practical for this one.......hope you dont have too far to go so that you dont have to mess about with screwed rod etc...you may have to cut out a bigger hole in order to get wood or metal in there to fix the backbox onto, and that will need a plasterer to patch it up afterwards.....no plastic fastfix boxes here