Strappers issue switching

[Conor mccarthy]

Afternoon people..

Could someone figure out if there is a way for me to connect this up applying to the regs so that I don’t need to pull another strapper over to the other switch.

At one switch I have..

1x feed from DB
1x Switch line to pendant
1x switch line to 5 amp sockets
1x 3 core + earth strapper to other switch

The other switch I have the other end of the strappers

Is it possible to have them both switched separately at both switches?

 

[Bobster]

If I understand what your trying to do correctly. The answers no.

 

[Pete999]

Afternoon people..

Could someone figure out if there is a way for me to connect this up applying to the regs so that I don’t need to pull another strapper over to the other switch.

At one switch I have..

1x feed from DB
1x Switch line to pendant
1x switch line to 5 amp sockets
1x 3 core + earth strapper to other switch

The other switch I have the other end of the strappers

Is it possible to have them both switched separately at both switches?

View attachment 40658

No it won't work the way you have explained it. You could have the pendant and 5 amp socket linked together as a two way installation.
Take a Live pair to the 5A socket (don't connect it up or liven any thing up yet) take a L ans SL to the first 2 way switch, take a N and SL to the pendant and link the 2 x 2 ways with a three core link the L from the CU and the L to the 1st 2 way and put them in a wago together, using the SL from the 1st 2 way as a live to switch the sockets on and off, by linking the pendant with an N and SL from the socket allows them both to be controlled together.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

To have independent 2-way control of the lights and lighting socket using ordinary switches, you need a minimum of 5 cores between the two switch locations (PL to both remote commons and two pairs of strappers back). An additional T+E would need to be run in this case.
However, you might solve it with dimmers that have remote stations connected by two wires only, one of which is common to one of the dimmer load circuit terminals. Then you could make that terminal of both dimmers PL, then run PL and the two control wires through your 3C+E. If dimming is unsuitable for the lamps, perhaps they can be set to non-dim mode.

 

[Conor mccarthy]

Thanks, I didn’t think there was a way without running another strapper over.

 

[davesparks]

Thanks, I didn’t think there was a way without running another strapper over.

You’ll need a pair of strappers, not just one.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

There is one more sneaky way to get by with just the 3C+E, as you have access to the neutral; put two small SPCO relays with 230V coils at the local switch position. Send PL to two 1-way switches at the remote switch position, two SLs back operate the relay coils and use the CO contacts of the relays as though they were the remote 2-way switches. This will work perfectly well, but has the disadvantage that the relay coils will be on for one of the two 'off' switch combinations, so there can be a small standby current 50% of the time.

 

[marconi]

A9C15488 - impulse relay TL - 1P - 1NO - 16A - coil 230 VAC 50Hz | Schneider Electric - https://www.schneider-electric.com/en/product/A9C15488/impulse-relay-tl---1p---1no---16a---coil-230-vac-50hz/?range=7564-acti-9-itl&node=166381469-impulse-relay

This is another way. You would need to buy two impulse relays and a box/boxes to put them in and then find a location to site them. See first reference.

You would have to replace the 2 switches at the two positions from two way types to 2 of these grid switches (roller blind up/down switches):

10 Amp Retractive Switch Centre Off Push Switch - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4900.html

For each new grid switch you connect L1 and L2 of each switch together - so that it does not matter if they rock up or down to form a single pole switch. Using one of the 3 cores you link the COMs together at each switch plate and connect to L feed.

You use one of the remaining 2 cores to join together the L1 and L2s of the 'left switch' of each switchplate and do the same with the third core for the 'right switch' of each face plate.
At one switchplate you connect each Switch L to one of the L1s.

The Switch L then operate the impulse relays which will toggle on and off with each depression of the grid switch.
You use the NO contacts of the Impulse relays to provide switch L to the pendant and 5A sockets. There is no standby power consumption by the Imp relays.

PS: I have just spotted this push action grid switch which you could use instead of the roller blind switch. You would use the COM and L2 of these and would not need to link together their L1 and L2.

10 Amp SP 2 Way Push Grid Switch - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4885.html

 

[davesparks]

For that matter the 3c&e could be used for a L&N to supply wireless switches at the far end.

 

[marconi]

For that matter the 3c&e could be used for a L&N to supply wireless switches at the far end.

See: 2 Gang Kinetic Wireless Switch - White - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUE12W.html

These don't need mains power L and N at the switch plate. They use a piezo-electric crystal to power the transmitter upon switch action. Need to buy the receivers.

See: Quinetic 6 Amp Wireless Switch Receiver - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR303.html