Summer House Electrics | on ElectriciansForums

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G

Gavin Cotton

Afternoon Guys and Girls,

Was going to post this to the DIY section but it wouldn't let me.

Firstly, whilst I will be doing the first fix for this I will be getting a sparks in to test and inspect everything once it's ready, but I do want to have everything in place.

Current setup is a 32amp mcb inside the CU inside the house with SWA (tacked to the surface, not in the ground) running under the house (house is raised as built on flood plain, accessed via flood grate) with the cable then running circa. 1m up the outside wall into an IP rated CU. IP CU has 40a RCD, 1 x 32a mcb and 1 x 6a mcb. This was originally installed to run a hot-tub and 1 string of external laterns. (like large fairy lights, with about 6 on the string).

The plan. move the IP rated CU from the outside wall and install into the inside of the summer house. The SWA would be extended (using an IP rated and potted JB). The 6a would be used to run 2 no. 150w 24v PSU for the LED lighting, total of 4a (if that) on the 230 side and the 32a used for ring main inside the summer house. (there will be a number of sockets, powering a laptop, various NAS drives, routers, telephone and a coffee machine, possibly a small instant water heater, just for rinsing some cups out, will be the lowest wattage unit I can find, oh also a 500w heater.) Far less than whats currently running on the 32a ring downstairs inside the house. So I'm not concerned about the loading on this.

My main question really, the IP CU, as mentioned above, is currently run off of a 32a mcb in the house CU. This 32a has a lower rating than the 40a RCD inside the IPCU

1. Should the 32a mcb in the house be swapped for a 40a?
2. Anything else that screams out a massive 'woo there mary'?

Thanks in advance
 
old schoolboy error. that 40A RCD is not overload protection. it's just it's max. operating current.
 
Gavin, just out of interest how have you "tacked the SWA" ?
 
Gavin, just out of interest how have you "tacked the SWA" ?

Towerclips - 2 inside the house from the CU down to floor level (then it goes through the floor)
2 on the ouside wall where the cable comes from under the house up to the IPCU.

I can't comment about under the hosue; not been under there, as I didnt install any of this.

I plan to use metal containment when I bridge the 600mm from the house to the summer house, which will be installed undrside of the porch, or external permiter of the porch/landing.
 
In an attempt to 'squash' all skeptasim.
I work for a company called Edward Ray International (Stretch Ceilings and LED Architecture by Edward Ray International) we manufature and install lighting systems, both commerical and residential installations. The electrical contractor on site does the final termination from our fused spurs back the board; we do all the 230v after the spur, and all cabling and controls for the lighting products we install.

We work with a local sparky when we need final terminations made under our remit and he has already inspected and tested various work I've done outside of the company - the only fault he's ever found is the lack of the wiring schemes sticker on the CU, which we had lost and I knew he'd had some in his van to stick on for me. Unfortunately, he's away on holdiay for 2 weeks, or I would have called him and I want to make start this week!

The property I'm looking at the moment is my partners; it's housing association and the work has been cleared by them, so long as it has got a ticket on it once it's done.

So I suggest you go and catch the damn pig and keep your unhelpful sarcastic comments to yourself.
 
Gavin, if you have a electrician to certify the works and notify it for you, why are you not asking opinion on what you have?
 
Gavin, if you have a electrician to certify the works and notify it for you, why are you not asking opinion on what you have?

As I explained in a previous post; he's away on holiday at the moment and I would have liked to make a start on things this week. Read some other post on here, and seemed like a helpful place!

Clearly I was wrong, and I'm now wishing I hadnt bothered.
 
Well if he's is certifying it he needs to say what is expected of the installation. The line of well someone on the internet said it's ok isn't really a excuse is it. Besides they will be able to visit site before works commence so can see exactly what you want. Wait another week and I am sure your spark will be more tha happy to advise.
 
The Mrs. place is a bit of trek for him to be coming back and forth; I take a load of pictures and send them over along with some reduimental M&E type drawings I'm putting together for it. If he wants to them come and take a look before hand he can or just advise 1st fix over the phone.

Think I will avoide this forum in future; shame though, If anyone had questions on DALI,0-10,DMX or LV LED tapes and fittings, I would have had the answers.
 
Why not post up some pictures on here, they will give a lot more details than what you can describe.
 
Okay I've removed several posts from this thread that were completely unnecessary. Mr Cotton was upfront about not being a qualified electrician and I've no reason to suspect at this stage that he's being underhanded and not intending to get the work signed-off.

I'd remind everyone the the DIY forum is on an opt-in basis and access is conditional on posts being constructive and cordial. On the flip side if you've reason to believe that someone is likely to be a hazard or is performing illegal/dangerous work please use the report button and report the thread for staff to review.
 
You do not say how big the SWA is nor how long the run of cable, these are critical to the correct design of circuit.
I do not know the loading expected from your description, but it is worthy of note that if there were an overload the 32A breaker in the house would trip before the one in the summer house. However upping the circuit breaker coudlbe dangerous unless your electrician has approved the circuit design change.
If you could lower the CU in the summer house to avoid having to joint the SWA this would be better, however if you have to joint it make sure the armour earthing is also maintained.
 
not sure from the photo # 1, is the SWA RCD protected in the house DB? if so, then you'll have a discrimination problem.
 
Okay I've removed several posts from this thread that were completely unnecessary. Mr Cotton was upfront about not being a qualified electrician and I've no reason to suspect at this stage that he's being underhanded and not intending to get the work signed-off.

I'd remind everyone the the DIY forum is on an opt-in basis and access is conditional on posts being constructive and cordial. On the flip side if you've reason to believe that someone is likely to be a hazard or is performing illegal/dangerous work please use the report button and report the thread for staff to review.

OK Marvo BUT he's doing electrics on other peoples houses, as a 2nd job, using a sparky to sign it off and test. I'd say that he's not in a position to get shirty.

DIY is do it yourself.

He's on about DIFSEAGP - doing it for someone else and getting paid.
 
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