SWA or T&E???

[Adam Smith]

Hello all,

I am running a distribution circuit to a sectioned off part of someone's house, I'm going to be running the cable under the wooden floor and dropping down in to the room from above. I can use either 10mm SWA or 16mm T&E to achieve this but was just wondering what people think would be the easiest cable to try and pull through joists and what not?. I assume neither option is going to be huge laugh!

Thanks

 

[Simonslimline]

A 16 mm2 armoured? Bollox

I read the OP as saying 16mm2 FT&E not SWA.

 

[davesparks]

Fair enough Dave , rather you than me though.

It wasn't my idea, I was an apprentice at the time so didn't have much choice in the matter.

The time we pulled 16mm T&E through joists was my idea, but at least that was 1st fix stage so good access.

 

[Tidy Max]

How big is 10mm SWA? Less than 0.25 x the depth of a joist?

 

[davesparks]

How big is 10mm SWA? Less than 0.25 x the depth of a joist?

Depends how deep the joist is!

10mm SWA is under 1" in diameter and joists tend to be 8" and upwards so yes it's likely to be less than 1/4 the depth.

 

[HandySparks]

I don't see the problem. 10mm² 3 core SWA is less than 20mm diameter. Holes in joists can be up to 0.25 x joist depth without further calculation . So, say 8" joists, 2" holes; more than twice the diameter of the cable. No problem, although easier with a mate or two, as davesparks says.

 

[Tidy Max]

10mm 3 core? I thoughtit was fairly hefty! The whole needs to be larger than the cable too surely by at LEAST 5mm, my drill and hole cutter dont fully fit inbetween most joists either so the holes are drilled at an angleid be avoiding pulling a swa in myself!

 

[123]

A stompy wood bit and a compact drill should get the holes all nice and straight, job's less difficult then. If any holes are at an angle I'd wish you the best of luck!

Is 10/16mm Hi Tuff not an option?

 

[electroyd]

Hello all,

I am running a distribution circuit to a sectioned off part of someone's house, I'm going to be running the cable under the wooden floor and dropping down in to the room from above. I can use either 10mm SWA or 16mm T&E to achieve this but was just wondering what people think would be the easiest cable to try and pull through joists and what not?. I assume neither option is going to be huge laugh!

Thanks

obviously im unsure of the situation and design. but does the cable have to be so big in the first instance. i'm guessing the incomer is single phase 100amp?

 

[Leesparkykent]

When drilling holes in 10" floor joist on new builds, I cut a bit of scaffold board about 300mm long mark my holes on it and drill my holes then I measure off the wall where holes are going to be,ping a chalk line from one side to the other then I can line the edge of the scaffold board up with the chalk line mark the holes on every joist and every hole is in a perfect line. Makes 1st fixing so much more of a doddle when it all lines up perfectly.

I hate new builds with engineered floor joists with the knock outs in, as they rarely line up.

 

[davesparks]

When drilling holes in 10" floor joist on new builds, I cut a bit of scaffold board about 300mm long mark my holes on it and drill my holes then I measure off the wall where holes are going to be,ping a chalk line from one side to the other then I can line the edge of the scaffold board up with the chalk line mark the holes on every joist and every hole is in a perfect line. Makes 1st fixing so much more of a doddle when it all lines up perfectly.

I hate new builds with engineered floor joists with the knock outs in, as they rarely line up.

When dealing with those damned I joist thing it's always worth speaking to the structural engineer, we have always got permission (written) to drill them where they don't line up. The usual answer we got was to drill no larger than the knockouts and no more holes to be made than the number of knockouts available.

 

[Leesparkykent]

When dealing with those damned I joist thing it's always worth speaking to the structural engineer, we have always got permission (written) to drill them where they don't line up. The usual answer we got was to drill no larger than the knockouts and no more holes to be made than the number of knockouts available.

Same here we've got permission before to drill them where they don't line up. I have also done a job before where they would have none of it and made us use only the knockouts, it was a complete pain in the neck and it looked a bit rough lol.

 

[Dcf]

Same here we've got permission before to drill them where they don't line up. I have also done a job before where they would have none of it and made us use only the knockouts, it was a complete pain in the neck at it looked a bit rough lol.

usually these i beams have holes at the top and the next ones been fitted upside down so they are at the bottom. nice!
16mm T&E will be slightly easier to pull in compared to swa/hituff(how very dare you to suggest such a beast)
its all do able with bit of judicious planning first mind
seems to me that this house bashing is not for the faint hearted
keep the holes straight ,use a cable reeler if possible to avoid kinks and use at least 2 of you
i have every faith in you OP

 

[davesparks]

HiTuff in the middle of winter? Are you mad? That stuff is only any good if you can leave it outside in direct sunlight for a few hours to soften it up.

 

[Adam Smith]

Sadly I haven't had a friend to pull cables with for a number of years now! The chap who owns the house is a plumber so I'm sure he can offer some assistance (could heat the cable up with his blow torch to make it more compliant!)

 

[Leesparkykent]

Sadly I haven't had a friend to pull cables with for a number of years now! The chap who owns the house is a plumber so I'm sure he can offer some assistance (could heat the cable up with his blow torch to make it more compliant!)

noooooooo!!!! Lol