Switch doesn't turn on chandelier

[Jaaade]

Hi guys. I will start by apologizing for the elementary question. I'm sure you get them often.

The chandelier is in a hallway controlled by a switch. There is another light source in that same hallway but separately controlled by a pull chain bulb (still works). (in case it is important). Well, I tried to turn on my hallway light and nothing happened. Checked the breakers and everything seemed fine on that front. I have a kaiweets vt500 voltage tester pen and seems like both chandelier (tested via the e26 bulb size opening where you put the bulb in) and the switch area connections are reading live voltage. What are other reasons for the chandelier not working? if it has a live connection where the bulbs are, and where the switch is, why wouldn't it turn on?

I hope this makes sense.

Thank you for your time.

 

[Avo Mk8]

Just to warn that a pen tester is not the ideal tool for fault finding. It can tell you what's "live", though it can also light through capacitative coupling from other circuits, but the capacitative current that lights the tester ("ghost voltage") disappears when there is any load on the circuit, so results not as clear-cut as a multimeter or 2-wire tester.
You say there is a voltage on the switch when the chandelier should be on, and a voltage showing in the bulb holder.
Are there multiple bulbs in the chandelier, so there are other bulbs providing a load when you do that test? If not, it may be the 'ghost voltage" scenario, or there may be a high resistance fault in the lighting circuit somewhere.

Or it could be that there's a break in the neutral connection - the chandelier won't light if there's no return path for the current. Can you safely access the connections at the light fittings and check whether the neutral connection is also showing a voltage (it shouldn't be!).

 

[Jaaade]

Just to warn that a pen tester is not the ideal tool for fault finding. It can tell you what's "live", though it can also light through capacitative coupling from other circuits, but the capacitative current that lights the tester ("ghost voltage") disappears when there is any load on the circuit, so results not as clear-cut as a multimeter or 2-wire tester.
You say there is a voltage on the switch when the chandelier should be on, and a voltage showing in the bulb holder.
Are there multiple bulbs in the chandelier, so there are other bulbs providing a load when you do that test? If not, it may be the 'ghost voltage" scenario, or there may be a high resistance fault in the lighting circuit somewhere.

Or it could be that there's a break in the neutral connection - the chandelier won't light if there's no return path for the current. Can you safely access the connections at the light fittings and check whether the neutral connection is also showing a voltage (it shouldn't be!).

Thank you for your reply. Yes, there are eight bulbs and they all show voltage. I tested the center bottom oh bulb holder and also the sides of where the bulb threads are. Both those areas show a reading. Just to throw what I saw out there because I can't make heads or tails of it cause i have zero idea what I'm doing lol.. Sometimes, when I put the pen on the thread area (the sides of the bulb holder), the reading is green with reading of 20 or 17 or 30 it's sporadic. But MOST of them, they had similar RED light reading just as the center/bottom of the bulb holder, readings ranging from 20s to 50s

Yes, we have access to the fitting. My pen is a non contact tester and Google says (lol) that those can read through the plastic the wires are in. I will post here my results.

If it were an electrician, what would be the steps to take to diagnose something like this? You did mention some possibilities and I'm wondering if there was a professional tool or technique to be used to find a problem without process of elimination like DIYers like myself.

Thanks again so much for your time.

 

[Avo Mk8]

Thank you for your reply. Yes, there are eight bulbs and they all show voltage. I tested the center bottom oh bulb holder and also the sides of where the bulb threads are. Both those areas show a reading. Just to throw what I saw out there because I can't make heads or tails of it cause i have zero idea what I'm doing lol.. Sometimes, when I put the pen on the thread area (the sides of the bulb holder), the reading is green with reading of 20 or 17 or 30 it's sporadic. But MOST of them, they had similar RED light reading just as the center/bottom of the bulb holder, readings ranging from 20s to 50s

Yes, we have access to the fitting. My pen is a non contact tester and Google says (lol) that those can read through the plastic the wires are in. I will post here my results.

If it were an electrician, what would be the steps to take to diagnose something like this? You did mention some possibilities and I'm wondering if there was a professional tool or technique to be used to find a problem without process of elimination like DIYers like myself.

Thanks again so much for your time.

I don't understand the meaning of numbers you mention, as none of them are around the mains voltage of 110/120V. I wouldn't expect a pen tester to give an accurate measurement, but I would expect it to be higher if you are actually touching the wire!

It sounds as if the "non-hot" neutral wire has become disconnected (or worse - broken) on its way to the chandelier. That's why everything indicates 'live' on the pen tester, even what ought to be at zero volts- eg the threaded metal outsideh base of the light bulbs.

An electrician in the UK would use a 'multifunction tester' (MFT) which can measure low resistance (which is what cables and joints should have, measure insulation (high) resistance, which in cables and appliances should be high, measure voltage accurately, and measure current, which you don't seem to have any of !
An MFT cost lots of £££. Sorry $$$, and you need to know how to use it.

Other than doing a visual inspection (switched off!) of the wiring connections, looking for loose terminals or pigtails, I don't think there's much can be done before calling an electrician.
Has any work been done recently on the electrics in the house?
You don't have any rodent activity do you?
I share your frustration, but it's not something I can diagnose remotely, not least because I'm in the UK and don't know much about your wiring practices and regulations!
Best of luck.

PS - random thought - could pulling on the pull cord light fitting have loosened a wire in the ceiling fitting of that - the two fittings are likely interconnected.

 

[Jaaade]

I don't understand the meaning of numbers you mention, as none of them are around the mains voltage of 110/120V. I wouldn't expect a pen tester to give an accurate measurement, but I would expect it to be higher if you are actually touching the wire!

It sounds as if the "non-hot" neutral wire has become disconnected (or worse - broken) on its way to the chandelier. That's why everything indicates 'live' on the pen tester, even what ought to be at zero volts- eg the threaded metal outsideh base of the light bulbs.

An electrician in the UK would use a 'multifunction tester' (MFT) which can measure low resistance (which is what cables and joints should have, measure insulation (high) resistance, which in cables and appliances should be high, measure voltage accurately, and measure current, which you don't seem to have any of !
An MFT cost lots of £££. Sorry $$$, and you need to know how to use it.

Other than doing a visual inspection (switched off!) of the wiring connections, looking for loose terminals or pigtails, I don't think there's much can be done before calling an electrician.
Has any work been done recently on the electrics in the house?
You don't have any rodent activity do you?
I share your frustration, but it's not something I can diagnose remotely, not least because I'm in the UK and don't know much about your wiring practices and regulations!
Best of luck.

PS - random thought - could pulling on the pull cord light fitting have loosened a wire in the ceiling fitting of that - the two fittings are likely interconnected.

YEP! That's what it was. . seems like common sense now but it only triggered when you mentioned it lol. Thank you. It is now fixed. The neutral wire had gotten loose! I am now in working order! Thank you again very much for the great info. i've learned a lot from your post! All the best Avo.

 

[Jaaade]

@AVO, To answer your Q tho, this light I was talking about we installed (my bro and I) it not too long ago and no other electrical work has been done other than installing new fixtures around the house. I'm pretty sure we have mice

 

[Timbo]

@Megawatt can you help