Terminate SWA in Wiska or straight to Garage CU

[doobereewotsit]

Hello all,

I wanted to know the best approach of connecting to a Garage CU.

Currently planning a small wiring project that i want to do in a few months time, when cash and time allows.
My plan is to do the work myself and go through the proper channels of notifying the work to the local council so i am building a plan of what i am doing and what kit to buy.

The plan is to run an SWA from the house(own supply) to the garage/ workshop.
My first question is with regards to the termination of the SWA where it meets the garage/ workshop.
The SWA will be the supply to a garage Consumer unit but my question is do i terminate the SWA in a Wiska box on the outside and then run a TE from the junction box(wiska) to the supply on the CU, which will be on the opposite side of the wall? or do I terminate the SWA on the Wiska box but strip the cable such that i feed the cable direct through the garage wall and into the CU?

I ask as trying to feed the chunky SWA through the wall and direct to the CU will be untidy and id like the supply to feed the CU from direct from the outside into the back of the CU.

I hope i am making sense.

Thanks all

John

 

[Charlie_]

No gas here.

That’s a shame you could have tapped into the gas at the same time and took that down with your power

 

[doobereewotsit]

Most DIYers haven’t got a clue what part pee is let alone booking the job in with building controller

Bacon to the OP , 2.5 swa is easily manipulated through a wall and formed to go directly up to a position. So I would take directly to my consumer unit position

I personally don’t like cAbles being unnecessarily cut and joined..

Fair point re the DIYers. i Like to thinl i am not in that category but i suppose i would wouldn't I!

Thank you for answering the actual question asked.

Given its a timber wall i guess a slight diagonal hole would encourage less "kink" on the entry and exit either side of the wall. I just wanted it to look as neat and tidy as possible.

 

[Spoon]

That earthing arrangement do you have?
How long is the SWA run?
How will the SWA be routed?
What are you planning to use in the shed?
Does anything need bonding in the shed?

Would love to see how much LABC are going to charge you for this. Please let us know.
I'm presuming you know you still need this circuit tested by an electrician and LABC will want all relevant paperwork.
May be a good idea to see if it is cheaper to go through an electrician as you need one anyhow. You could have a word with them and say that you will do all the donkey work, therefor saving some money.

 

[Midwest]

No but i assume you are going to say its cheaper to get a spark in?

It something to consider. My LBC charges £400 + vat, to test & inspect installation. You could try third party inspection, but that service is not cheap either.

I was registered with a scheme, not no more. I haven’t the 18th, so I doubt if I could convince my LBC of my current competency. If I was installing new circuits/CU etc, I might consider getting a registered spark to do. Might be cheaper.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Third party verification is one option , but I have heard prices can vary dramatically..
If you have already nearly finished the job then third party is probably your best bet. At this point building controller probably won’t work.
Or you could just do the job and not bother with any of the red tape

 

[Spoon]

If you have already nearly finished the job then third party is probably your best bet.

The OP says it's just at the planning stage at the mo.

 

[doobereewotsit]

Most DIYers haven’t got a clue what part pee is let alone booking the job in with building controller

Bacon to the OP , 2.5 swa is easily manipulated through a wall and formed to go directly up to a position. So I would take directly to my consumer unit position

I personally don’t like cAbles being unnecessarily cut and joined..

My original question did ask whether to terminate the SWA at the outside Wiska leaving enough length in the cores to push through to the Cu and connect there.
I just think that would look tidier and join direct to the CU from the house.

 

[Andy78]

Third party verification is one option , but I have heard prices can vary dramatically..
If you have already nearly finished the job then third party is probably your best bet. At this point building controller probably won’t work.
Or you could just do the job and not bother with any of the red tape

Not so. A third party notification should be designed by the signing party and inspected at first and second fix.

 

[Spoon]

My original question did ask whether to terminate the SWA at the outside Wiska leaving enough length in the cores to push through to the Cu and connect there.
I just think that would look tidier and join direct to the CU from the house.

Not sure I would agree with you on that.
You say that the shed is wood.
How would an armoured cable routed on the outside of the shed look better than one routed inside?.... Just my opinion...

 

[Andy78]

Fair point re the DIYers. i Like to thinl i am not in that category but i suppose i would wouldn't I!

You hit the nail on the head there. No diyer who attempts electrical work thinks of themselves as any less competent than an electrician. that's why they attempt it.
It's an especially prevalent mindset amongst those who make a completely unsafe mess of it.

 

[doobereewotsit]

Not sure I would agree with you on that.
You say that the shed is wood.
How would an armoured cable routed on the outside of the shed look better than one routed inside?.... Just my opinion...

SWA goes up external wall on side which can’t be seen.
Terminated at Wiska. Cores go through back of Wiska in through the back of the CU on opposite side.
No SWA showing inside and one conduit coming down to the first socket in radial circuit

Seems tidy to me.

 

[ruston]

Most DIYers haven’t got a clue what part pee is let alone booking the job in with building controller

Bacon to the OP , 2.5 swa is easily manipulated through a wall and formed to go directly up to a position. So I would take directly to my consumer unit position

I personally don’t like cAbles being unnecessarily cut and joined..

Same here , you are going to have to come through , or under the wall at some stage. Save yourself a load of grief trying to terminate into an adaptable box and wire it neatly directly into your metal CU.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Not so. A third party notification should be designed by the signing party and inspected at first and second fix.

There are several third parties in London and Surrey who will do retrospective certification for a price

 

[Andy78]

There are several third parties in London and Surrey who will do retrospective certification for a price

That doesn't mean they are doing it correctly though. Might as well not bother.

 

[Andy78]

SWA goes up external wall on side which can’t be seen.
Terminated at Wiska. Cores go through back of Wiska in through the back of the CU on opposite side.
No SWA showing inside and one conduit coming down to the first socket in radial circuit

Seems tidy to me.

A lot tidier would be under the shed and up through the floor. Why have a gland and point of termination outside when it can be inside ?