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Dave_

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Alright lads what do you allow for and how much depth do you go into with regard to testing when changing a CU?

I typically allow a day time wise for say an 8 way board in a 3 bed house, stating there may be faults that the new equipment may pick up and it may incur additional cost to rectify this (in unable to in that day).

I'm never sure how much detail to go into when testing. I'd imagine less than if it were an EICR. Let me know your thoughts!

Dave
 
Alright lads what do you allow for and how much depth do you go into with regard to testing when changing a CU?

I typically allow a day time wise for say an 8 way board in a 3 bed house, stating there may be faults that the new equipment may pick up and it may incur additional cost to rectify this (in unable to in that day).

I'm never sure how much detail to go into when testing. I'd imagine less than if it were an EICR. Let me know your thoughts!

Dave
come on Dave...its a certificate for an electrical installation ....accompanied with a full schedule of inspections and a full schedule of tests
 
Sufficient enough detail that you walk away knowing that the installation is safe and fit for purpose.

A full visual inspection and electrical safety test should be completled, with 0 corners cut and recorded appropriatley.
 
I usually bet on doing a C/U change and testing in about 3-5 hours.
I test as im going, so rip the old board off, strip all the cables right back, wire all the earths into the bar, then IR each circuit L/N to E (I dont IR L to N), end to end test all the rings then finish the board, liven up, do my Ze and RCD tests at the board then EFLI on the radials.
 
I usually bet on doing a C/U change and testing in about 3-5 hours.
I test as im going, so rip the old board off, strip all the cables right back then IR each one L/N to E (I dont IR L to N), end to end test all the rings then finish the board, liven up, do my Ze and RCD tests at the board then Zs on the radials.
well do yourself a big favour here..and start IR testing between them neutrals as well Dave....
otherwise you may become a victim of the shared neutral one of these times.......
 
well do yourself a big favour here..and start IR testing between them neutrals as well Dave....
otherwise you may become a victim of the shared neutral one of these times.......
I usually do this with the continuity tester as I go, so each time im about to put a neutral in the bar i test between it and both bars, but yeah good point
 
I find that carrying out an EICR prior to board change lets you and the customer know what you're up against. If the EICR shows up very little then you could at your discretion offer a discount on the cost of a board change. Horses for courses, if there is plenty of remedials then the discount can be lost.

Either way waiting to carry out any tests until the old board is off, can lead to problems and leave some explaining if faults are found at this stage.
Each to their own!
 
I find that carrying out an EICR prior to board change lets you and the customer know what you're up against. If the EICR shows up very little then you could at your discretion offer a discount on the cost of a board change. Horses for courses, if there is plenty of remedials then the discount can be lost.

Either way waiting to carry out any tests until the old board is off, can lead to problems and leave some explaining if faults are found at this stage.
Each to their own!

Its a nice idea but when the other two qouters come along and say "Ill do the job for ÂŁ350" and you come along and say "give me ÂŁ200 for a bit of paper then Ill come and do the job and it'll probably be about ÂŁ350".......well I know which one I'd go for......

I know its recommended that you EICR beforehand but personally, unless its a very large house with very old wiring I dont think its generally practical.

I also find testing FAR easier when the old board is already removed.

Its all about good communication with the client (put in the T&C of the quote "any circuits found to have major defects will have to be rectified before reconnection, this may incur an additional charge") and thinking on yer feet.....

If you have shared neutrals and its tricky to seperate....you combine the circuits on one MCB
Ring with no continuity.......20amp Breaker

Ive done probably well over 50 C/U changes without prior testing and never had any problems that I couldnt get over.
 
Agreed tbh, i wouldn't carry out a full EICR before and after a board change. Just a visual inspection - bonding, general wear and tear ect... and a N-E IR and start. Making the client aware of unforseen circumstances.

But as you say Sharpend, each to their own!
 
On the contrary to the title of the OP I test before the DB change and make the customer aware that if it fails and they don't want to pay for the remedial work then they will be charged for an unsatisfactory EICR, IMO most people who want a DB change are in the main aware of the benefits of the DB change and they are also aware that there may be possible additional costs for upgrading.

What if you removed the old and found a re-wire was required??????????? That would take some explaining as an experienced tradesman who had only performed a visual before trashing the old set up
 
Before any CU quote, I carry out a quick visual for bonding, tail sizes etc, along with IR, RFC continuity and Ze tests along with checking for shared neutrals.
After the change I always carry out R1+R2 at every point, along with all the usual tests for the schedule. Average house takes me a day, sometimes more if any issues found.
What I don't do, is a full EICR unless the customer requests it.
 
I usually bet on doing a C/U change and testing in about 3-5 hours.
I test as im going, so rip the old board off, strip all the cables right back, wire all the earths into the bar, then IR each circuit L/N to E (I dont IR L to N), end to end test all the rings then finish the board, liven up, do my Ze and RCD tests at the board then EFLI on the radials.

Why not? and when do you do the R1 + R2's on the socket circuits?
 
Why not? and when do you do the R1 + R2's on the socket circuits?

I don't particularly see the point in L-N IR and it involves a lot of messing about with light switches, lamps, isolators etc.
I dont do the full ring circuit R1+R2 on either C/U changes or new installs. End to end continuity on the 3 conductors is good enough for me and provides me with a pretty accurate R1+R2 reading.
 

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