Thx to the forum over the years

[Steve-S]

Beware a little long.
I served an electrical apprenticeship a long time ago, then went back to full time education immediately moving away from mainly domestic electricity work to jobs with greater reward (and interest), and not crawling around filthy lofts. There have been significant advances in domestic electrics since I was crawling around lofts as a kid, notably, LED lighting, RCDs, RCBOs, AFDDs, SPDs and screwless connectors (which have made their way onto light fittings and some 13A sockets). I recall ELCBs for specialist applications when I was a kid, few had them in homes. The only real safety advance at the time. The words 'consumer unit' were unheard of.

I have always been an admirer of the German, French, Continental main panels. They are multi row, inset into walls, have an RCD on each row with the data/comms all in one neat attractive metal enclosure. Impressive and state of the art. We would have fuse boxes under stairs where you had to lay on your stomach to get at them. Or a fuse box high up on a wall in a downstairs toilet in new builds, having to stand on the toilet to reset a breaker. Appalling. We were/are third world to their latest equipment and ways. Their breakers are also double pole all through, to our standard single pole, and their twin L & N busbars reducing wiring in the main panels. All very well thought out and neat. I noticed last week Screwfix sell the Schneider multi row metal consumer unit and the twin busbars. So some hope there we are going their way.

However, when looking at the Continental main panels (I prefer those words) below the attractive looks, I was always struck at the many circuits just a two bedroomed apartment had, as they had dedicated radials to certain appliances and socket radials and breakers to a room or two rooms at the most. In Britain it was common to see three circuits in flats in a small 'fusebox': the socket ring circuit, cooker and lights. A relative has a 35 year old house, detached, 4 bed, two bathroom with an attached garage. Heat and hot water by gas. His consumer unit was high in the garage, needing a ladder to get to, but with only a five circuits: one ring, two lights, cooker and immersion. The immersion has never been switched on as it is backup only. I immediately though cowboy cheapo builders skimping, but he said he has been there 25 years and not once has he had problems of any sort. He even has a big American fridge, washing machine, dryer and dishwasher of the one ring. And of course the TV, laptop etc. He had his consumer unit changed to a Fuse Box model with all DP RCBOs fitted at face height.

It hit me that the ring circuit was why he did not need a mass of circuits to our radial fitting Continental cousins. I have always admired the genius, simplicity and economy of the ring circuit, which the British G type fuse in plug, protecting the flex, makes possible. I would argue with Americans and Continentals defending the ring, that there was two ways back to the main panel for the earth, the cables less stressed by current, and that as we were taught it was a socket busbar run around the house. It was also economical to install. You can plug in a 3kW appliance into any socket with it fully working. We all were on the side of rings, all of us, sneering radials used for sockets circuits. I have noticed Youtube channels like Efixx and a few others, promote radials these days, which many just follow without thinking. I suspect this is under the prompting of sponsor manufacturers who want to sell MCBs, RCBOs, more cable, etc.

The big criticism from Americans and Continentals of the ring was that if the ring is severed for some reason, loose connection or just cut, one of the cables on one of the ring's 2.5mm legs could overheat drawing too much current causing a fire, as it is protected by a 32A breaker. A fair point. But I pointed out 4mm cable can be used, so no problem. They pointed out that using two 4mm conductors in one socket terminal to make the ring is cumbersome, and may put stress on the cable as the socket in pushed in. A fair point, although this applies to radial and ring circuits. They said 4mm is rarely used for sockets as they have a limit to sockets on any radial. These days safety device introduction has made the ring far, far, safer, so should be the first circuit of choice.

Well where is all this leading to you may ask. For a number of years I was considering a total flat renovation of my 2 bed flat, new bathroom, kitchen, electrics, floors, all new pipes, new combi, new doors, skirtings, etc. Then I am set for life. I was on a budget, so had to look at where savings could be made. I looked at the electrics. Skimming the forums here I gleened over the years since I was inactive in electrics, that the regs had changed markedly, and new safety devices introduced. The forum helped me here. I was aware of screwless connectors from commercial Continental applications I had seen, being impressed, but the new small Wago and In-Sure were new to me. The forum made me aware of double pole RCBO and AFDDs, and the regs relating to AFDDs and SPDs and that induction hobs were available on 13A plugs.

The forum directed me to the reg that I needed an 'expensive' AFDD on any circuit with a socket on it as the block I live in has too many floors to be exempted. So, with safety in mind and the reservations of Americans and Continentals on the ring circuit in my mind I designed the electrical installation for the flat. I ended up with 'three' circuits:

1. The hob and oven circuit. The hob can be on a 13 amp plug and oven draws about 14 amps. They both are off one 4mm T&E cable on a 32A DP RCBO. Both on a 20A isolator switches in an adjacent cupboard.

2. The ring circuit. It supplies all the sockets in the flat, as it is less than 100 square metres and one fused spur to the combi. It is in 4mm T&E cable on a DP 32A AFDD (32A is max these days for rings I read). A number of forum members mentioned having screwless lever connectors in backboxes taking the ring's load, then 2.5mm flex to the sockets. All using Wago or In-Sure lever connectors. I went this way using ferrules on the flex. Then no problems of having to use the socket terminals with two cumbersome 4mm conductors in them. The 4mm cable was easy to fit into the backboxes using the screwless lever connectors. Then the socket terminals do not take the ring's current load. This raises safety levels, just what I want. If the ring is severed the 4mm cable will not overheat, as the 32A AFDD will protect it, just what I want.

Washer/dryer and 3/4 dishwasher have sockets in adjacent cupboards. Using diversity the ring will be under the 32 amp current draw.

3. Lights. All LEDs with a DP RCBO on 1.00mm T&E cable. One dimmer in living room serving three skirting height 5A round pin light fittings for table lamps.

Only drums of 4mm and 1.00mm cable making it cheap as per metre the cable is cheaper in larger drums. The 2.5mm flex was three-core 2.5mm flex with the outer sheath removed. Quite cheap, cheaper than buying three single cores. The consumer unit was a small cheaper metal job with an SPD. It does not take up space being very small and near to a large plastic enclosure, housing the Modem, data distribution to all rooms using RJ5 sockets, etc. Trunking used so no cables seen making it very neat. Had the installation signed off. Safety levels are 'very' high for minimum cost.

Money saved meant I could buy stainless flat plate sockets and light fittings and superior shower brassware. Yet high levels of safety.

Due to the simplicity and brilliance of the ring we do not need a multitude of radial circuits and big consumer units. So thanks to the many on the many threads over the past years I picked up all this current information on safety devices, low current hobs, and regs.

 

[pc1966]

The "RFC versus Radial" debate comes up periodically and with near-religious levels of arguments, usually not relating to the actual design aspects. But for many cases the UK's fused plugs (so it is not really a "final" circuit after all, more of a distribution circuit) allows a very efficient installation due to the diversity on a 32A socket circuit, and the area covered comfortably by the RFC.

Having said that, if the UK could borrow just one idea from the EU it would have been a proper building standard for the minimum size and accessibility of CU location. For Victorian houses converted to the new-fangled electric stuff there is some excuse, but for anything built in the last half century or more the architects and builders deserve a beating for not planning electrical system in to the actual building layout.

Even though a 6A RCBO is plenty for a whole house/flat lighting with LEDs, I would always design for two circuits just so under a single-fault you have some lights in the place.

In my own work we have metal cabins with sockets wired in 4mm singles in trunking for a similar reason: we needed 4mm for the 20A radials feeding several UPS due to the grouping factor, and 4mm for supplementary bonding, so no reason to buy 2.5mm just for sockets.

 

[mainline]

Beware a little long.
I served an electrical apprenticeship a long time ago, then went back to full time education immediately moving away from mainly domestic electricity work to jobs with greater reward (and interest), and not crawling around filthy lofts. There have been significant advances in domestic electrics since I was crawling around lofts as a kid, notably, LED lighting, RCDs, RCBOs, AFDDs, SPDs and screwless connectors (which have made their way onto light fittings and some 13A sockets). I recall ELCBs for specialist applications when I was a kid, few had them in homes. The only real safety advance at the time. The words 'consumer unit' were unheard of.

I have always been an admirer of the German, French, Continental main panels. They are multi row, inset into walls, have an RCD on each row with the data/comms all in one neat attractive metal enclosure. Impressive and state of the art. We would have fuse boxes under stairs where you had to lay on your stomach to get at them. Or a fuse box high up on a wall in a downstairs toilet in new builds, having to stand on the toilet to reset a breaker. Appalling. We were/are third world to their latest equipment and ways. Their breakers are also double pole all through, to our standard single pole, and their twin L & N busbars reducing wiring in the main panels. All very well thought out and neat. I noticed last week Screwfix sell the Schneider multi row metal consumer unit and the twin busbars. So some hope there we are going their way.

However, when looking at the Continental main panels (I prefer those words) below the attractive looks, I was always struck at the many circuits just a two bedroomed apartment had, as they had dedicated radials to certain appliances and socket radials and breakers to a room or two rooms at the most. In Britain it was common to see three circuits in flats in a small 'fusebox': the socket ring circuit, cooker and lights. A relative has a 35 year old house, detached, 4 bed, two bathroom with an attached garage. Heat and hot water by gas. His consumer unit was high in the garage, needing a ladder to get to, but with only a five circuits: one ring, two lights, cooker and immersion. The immersion has never been switched on as it is backup only. I immediately though cowboy cheapo builders skimping, but he said he has been there 25 years and not once has he had problems of any sort. He even has a big American fridge, washing machine, dryer and dishwasher of the one ring. And of course the TV, laptop etc. He had his consumer unit changed to a Fuse Box model with all DP RCBOs fitted at face height.

It hit me that the ring circuit was why he did not need a mass of circuits to our radial fitting Continental cousins. I have always admired the genius, simplicity and economy of the ring circuit, which the British G type fuse in plug, protecting the flex, makes possible. I would argue with Americans and Continentals defending the ring, that there was two ways back to the main panel for the earth, the cables less stressed by current, and that as we were taught it was a socket busbar run around the house. It was also economical to install. You can plug in a 3kW appliance into any socket with it fully working. We all were on the side of rings, all of us, sneering radials used for sockets circuits. I have noticed Youtube channels like Efixx and a few others, promote radials these days, which many just follow without thinking. I suspect this is under the prompting of sponsor manufacturers who want to sell MCBs, RCBOs, more cable, etc.

The big criticism from Americans and Continentals of the ring was that if the ring is severed for some reason, loose connection or just cut, one of the cables on one of the ring's 2.5mm legs could overheat drawing too much current causing a fire, as it is protected by a 32A breaker. A fair point. But I pointed out 4mm cable can be used, so no problem. They pointed out that using two 4mm conductors in one socket terminal to make the ring is cumbersome, and may put stress on the cable as the socket in pushed in. A fair point, although this applies to radial and ring circuits. They said 4mm is rarely used for sockets as they have a limit to sockets on any radial. These days safety device introduction has made the ring far, far, safer, so should be the first circuit of choice.

Well where is all this leading to you may ask. For a number of years I was considering a total flat renovation of my 2 bed flat, new bathroom, kitchen, electrics, floors, all new pipes, new combi, new doors, skirtings, etc. Then I am set for life. I was on a budget, so had to look at where savings could be made. I looked at the electrics. Skimming the forums here I gleened over the years since I was inactive in electrics, that the regs had changed markedly, and new safety devices introduced. The forum helped me here. I was aware of screwless connectors from commercial Continental applications I had seen, being impressed, but the new small Wago and In-Sure were new to me. The forum made me aware of double pole RCBO and AFDDs, and the regs relating to AFDDs and SPDs and that induction hobs were available on 13A plugs.

The forum directed me to the reg that I needed an 'expensive' AFDD on any circuit with a socket on it as the block I live in has too many floors to be exempted. So, with safety in mind and the reservations of Americans and Continentals on the ring circuit in my mind I designed the electrical installation for the flat. I ended up with 'three' circuits:

1. The hob and oven circuit. The hob can be on a 13 amp plug and oven draws about 14 amps. They both are off one 4mm T&E cable on a 32A DP RCBO. Both on a 20A isolator switches in an adjacent cupboard.

2. The ring circuit. It supplies all the sockets in the flat, as it is less than 100 square metres and one fused spur to the combi. It is in 4mm T&E cable on a DP 32A AFDD (32A is max these days for rings I read). A number of forum members mentioned having screwless lever connectors in backboxes taking the ring's load, then 2.5mm flex to the sockets. All using Wago or In-Sure lever connectors. I went this way using ferrules on the flex. Then no problems of having to use the socket terminals with two cumbersome 4mm conductors in them. The 4mm cable was easy to fit into the backboxes using the screwless lever connectors. Then the socket terminals do not take the ring's current load. This raises safety levels, just what I want. If the ring is severed the 4mm cable will not overheat, as the 32A AFDD will protect it, just what I want.

Washer/dryer and 3/4 dishwasher have sockets in adjacent cupboards. Using diversity the ring will be under the 32 amp current draw.

3. Lights. All LEDs with a DP RCBO on 1.00mm T&E cable. One dimmer in living room serving three skirting height 5A round pin light fittings for table lamps.

Only drums of 4mm and 1.00mm cable making it cheap as per metre the cable is cheaper in larger drums. The 2.5mm flex was three-core 2.5mm flex with the outer sheath removed. Quite cheap, cheaper than buying three single cores. The consumer unit was a small cheaper metal job with an SPD. It does not take up space being very small and near to a large plastic enclosure, housing the Modem, data distribution to all rooms using RJ5 sockets, etc. Trunking used so no cables seen making it very neat. Had the installation signed off. Safety levels are 'very' high for minimum cost.

Money saved meant I could buy stainless flat plate sockets and light fittings and superior shower brassware. Yet high levels of safety.

Due to the simplicity and brilliance of the ring we do not need a multitude of radial circuits and big consumer units. So thanks to the many on the many threads over the past years I picked up all this current information on safety devices, low current hobs, and regs.

Adding more junctions to sockets cant make it safer.
Mk do quick fix screwless sockets so no need to joint flex into them, and why flex ? it's not like you're going to be removing them every day, is it ?

Having all those appliances on one ring isnt a good idea.
The maximum permitted value per RCD has been set at 30% of the nominal value, i.e. a 30mA RCD would be no more than 9mA.

Having one lighting circuit certainly isn't a good idea.

 

[nicebutdim]

I'd also have done things differently, although I agree with much of the OP's reasoning. 4mm into sockets isn't a problem and can easily be dressed to avoid any strain on conductors. If this is a modest flat with only the OP living there, it's unlikely he'll have any issues, but dedicated radial circuits for certain appliances isn't a bad idea given the standards to which such appliances are now designed and manufactured.

 

[Steve-S]

I think a few never got my aims.

1. Economical engineering
2. Safety is paramount.
3. Keeping it simple

I can have both these days. Safety is greatly enhanced by double pole AFDDs, RCBOs and screwless Wago/In-Sure connectors. While in the electrical game as a kid I came across many scorched cables, junction boxes, sockets and fused spur boxes. Most problems were screwed connections. We now have screwless connectors, that do work loose. Safety have now improved on that point.

The introduction of double pole RCBOs & AFDDs and screwless connections puts the ridiculed ring circuit in a supreme position. It is now pretty well bomb proof. On the Continent they have screwless MCBs, etc. Once available in the UK the ring is unassailable.

The Wago/In-Sure connectors in the backboxes were to eliminate screwed connections. The ring's current only runs around the ring's cable through screwless connections not through the terminals on the rear of the sockets, which is a flashpoint for problems. 4mm cable is unwieldy in a backbox, in this case it is a easy to insert into a lever Wago/In-Sure at the back of the box. The cable will 'never' be moved again.

I have seen many problems pushing back a socket with six wires on it. Sometimes they work loose as stress is on the wires. Having a rings heavy current run though the rear of sockets is something that should be avoided.

From the Wago/In-Sure the 2.5mm flex is to ensure the socket moves back not putting any stress on any terminal. 4mm is solid fixed cable, not meant to be moved in and out. Also the terminal on the socket do not pass current unless that socket draws current when an appliance is being used.

4mm cable was used as it was cheaper keeping the sockets and cooking appliance on the same gauge of cable, and if the ring breaks for any reason the cable is protected by the 32A breaker. So a problem our Continenetal cousins keep carping on about when ridiculing rings. Inserting the Wago/In-Sure connectors applies equally to radial circuits. The terminal on the first socket on a heavy current radial takes all the current. I have seen scorch marks on these terminals. The Wago/In-Sure connectors in the backboxes eliminates problem.

Using Wago/In-Sure connectors in backboxes, AFDDS and 4mm cable eliminates the current trend, backed by people who want to sell product, of needless radials. The ring is now bombproof, with no down points.

My ring only has three heavy current appliances: dishwasher, washer/dryer and toaster. Kettle is a stainless steel IKEA on the induction hob. There is not lots of earth leakage by appliances tripping the AFDD.

RCBOs, AFDDs and Wago/In-Sure connectors means we do not have to over engineer electrical systems. They can be very simple and more than deliver the power and safety. Ring is King!

If I was on the Continent, I would have a large main panel and lots of radial circuits all with AFDDs, giving me no more than what have now which is a fraction of the cost and expense.

 

[pc1966]

While I agree the RFC is a very good system for the UK (and countries using fused plugs) you seem to have far too much faith in people doing stuff correctly if the products exist to do so.

I suspect many cases of broken rings are down to some Muppet doing stuff with no knowledge or care to find out, that is a much harder problem to solve!

Certainly the Wago-style of terminals in some sockets now are a good idea, and the same for MCB/RCBO/AFDD would be nice as well, but having the knowledge and skill to use them correctly is a step up from most DIY work.

 

[littlespark]

There is not lots of earth leakage by appliances tripping the AFDD.

Wrong device?

AFDD detect arcing… momentary high frequency disconnecting and reconnecting of a live conductor.
The current isn’t leaking to earth…. It’s just not continually going where it’s supposed to.


Design is always a ---- up between safety, cost and common sense.
As others have mentioned, if a lighting circuit trips, you would want some other circuit of lights remaining to allow you to see.
Same with sockets… one fault should not take out the entire houses.


100% safe would mean no electricity at all…. Which is where common sense comes in.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Further thoughts on CU placement, the "Working at height Regulations" have a main thrust that construction and maintenance should be so designed that the work can be carried out without leaving the ground, this is carried through the CDM Regulations, so no excuse for new builds, or for re-wires?? Obviously putting the CU under the stairs or in a cupboard is stretching the point somewhat.

 

[Steve-S]

Hi, this is my first time here and third post, I was reluctant to subscribe as threads become circular and derailed going off the points far too much. I see that happening now. I never had the time to join in with threads, just wanting up to date info as my knowledge was of yesteryear. I did get the up to date info from the threads, then implemented it. I am giving the results.

I do not want to get into a circular argument, countering someone who wants to put two circuits in for everything, in case, creating redundancy. It is a 2 bed flat. All the flats I know have one lighting circuit. As it happens, I have light in the kitchen off the ring via the hob extractor fan. I also saw and bought on Ebay a 13A square pin to 5A round pin adapter, Rare items, so if my lights trip out for any reason, I can plug the table lamps into the ring's sockets.

I am designing for the here and now. What others like DIYers (I do not consider myself a DIYer) and 'muppets' do in the future is not my concern. You cannot always plan for the stupid.

The only future proofing I have, by default not design, is that I have a spare way in the main panel. If for any reason, such as maybe tripping of the ring as MA earth leakage is too high from additional appliance with electronics, the ring can be split into two radials by fitting another 32A DP AFDD and disconnecting behind one of the sockets giving lots of power at all the sockets. I have no tripping on the AFDD protected ring.

A broken ring of course is rare, if it does occur then I am covered as the cable is 4mm. It was also cheaper to keep all the cables carrying higher current (power), 4mm.

An AFDD is an MCB, RCD and arc fault detection all in one unit. Brilliant devices preventing fires.

Even if sockets were available with Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear (from what I know only white MK are available) I would not run the rings current through the screwless socket. I would still use Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear of the backbox to take the rings high current, keeping current only destined for a socket running through that sockets terminals. Eliminating a screwed connection at the rear of a socket is a clear plus, making the ring even more robust and bombproof. Additionally use screwless AFDDs if and when they are available then a ring as I described beats any bunch of radials hands down being 100% screwless.

 

[nicebutdim]

4mm t&e is stranded cable and more than flexible enough to dress neatly behind sockets, the terminals of which are more than capable of carrying the current intended to pass through them. I regularly wire sockets in 4mm pvc singles and sometimes tuff sheath cable which is solid core in 4mm.

I do occasionally find loose connections, but those are down to incompetence or DIY work, but those occasions are few and far between - perhaps because I mostly work in environments where people don't tinker with stuff they don't understand.

I stated previously that I didn't disagree with much of your reasoning, but would have done things differently and that's with good reason. While most appliances in the average home could easily run off one ring, customers might not like what eventually transpires when one appliance develops a fault.

I'm confident in my abilities where installation of fixed wiring is concerned, but less so about the long term reliability of domestic appliances.

Can a flat be successfully wired with a total of three circuits? Of course it can, but doing so may be less than ideal for a whole host of reasons.

 

[nicebutdim]

I'm also curious why this ring needs to be wired in 4mm cable if the OP is confident of having overcome perceived issues with loss of ring continuity?

 

[loz2754]

I'm also curious why this ring needs to be wired in 4mm cable if the OP is confident of having overcome perceived issues with loss of ring continuity?

Because he's already got 4mm² cable for the cooker. Do try and keep up!

 

[mainline]

Hi, this is my first time here and third post, I was reluctant to subscribe as threads become circular and derailed going off the points far too much. I see that happening now. I never had the time to join in with threads, just wanting up to date info as my knowledge was of yesteryear. I did get the up to date info from the threads, then implemented it. I am giving the results.

I do not want to get into a circular argument, countering someone who wants to put two circuits in for everything, in case, creating redundancy. It is a 2 bed flat. All the flats I know have one lighting circuit. As it happens, I have light in the kitchen off the ring via the hob extractor fan. I also saw and bought on Ebay a 13A square pin to 5A round pin adapter, Rare items, so if my lights trip out for any reason, I can plug the table lamps into the ring's sockets.

I am designing for the here and now. What others like DIYers (I do not consider myself a DIYer) and 'muppets' do in the future is not my concern. You cannot always plan for the stupid.

The only future proofing I have, by default not design, is that I have a spare way in the main panel. If for any reason, such as maybe tripping of the ring as MA earth leakage is too high from additional appliance with electronics, the ring can be split into two radials by fitting another 32A DP AFDD and disconnecting behind one of the sockets giving lots of power at all the sockets. I have no tripping on the AFDD protected ring.

A broken ring of course is rare, if it does occur then I am covered as the cable is 4mm. It was also cheaper to keep all the cables carrying higher current (power), 4mm.

An AFDD is an MCB, RCD and arc fault detection all in one unit. Brilliant devices preventing fires.

Even if sockets were available with Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear (from what I know only white MK are available) I would not run the rings current through the screwless socket. I would still use Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear of the backbox to take the rings high current, keeping current only destined for a socket running through that sockets terminals. Eliminating a screwed connection at the rear of a socket is a clear plus, making the ring even more robust and bombproof. Additionally use screwless AFDDs if and when they are available then a ring as I described beats any bunch of radials hands down being 100% screwless.

I'm also curious why this ring needs to be wired in 4mm cable if the OP is confident of having overcome perceived issues with loss of ring continuity?

I would have done it differently as well.

I think lamp sockets are unless run off the lighting circuit and two way between the door and side of bed is pointless as a bed should have a double socket each side so could plug a lamp in there if wanting lamps on the ring.

4mm ring in a small flat is a total overkill.
A few 20 amp radials and a couple of lighting circuits would have been fine.

I seems that the over riding thought in using a ring is to cut down on the use of more AFDDs

Oops hang on the lights have tripped I’ll just try and find that adapter for the table lamps.

I’ve seen wagos melt and go open when using flex to an immersion heater.

More joints is less safe simple.

Hi, this is my first time here and third post, I was reluctant to subscribe as threads become circular and derailed going off the points far too much. I see that happening now. I never had the time to join in with threads, just wanting up to date info as my knowledge was of yesteryear. I did get the up to date info from the threads, then implemented it. I am giving the results.

I do not want to get into a circular argument, countering someone who wants to put two circuits in for everything, in case, creating redundancy. It is a 2 bed flat. All the flats I know have one lighting circuit. As it happens, I have light in the kitchen off the ring via the hob extractor fan. I also saw and bought on Ebay a 13A square pin to 5A round pin adapter, Rare items, so if my lights trip out for any reason, I can plug the table lamps into the ring's sockets.

I am designing for the here and now. What others like DIYers (I do not consider myself a DIYer) and 'muppets' do in the future is not my concern. You cannot always plan for the stupid.

The only future proofing I have, by default not design, is that I have a spare way in the main panel. If for any reason, such as maybe tripping of the ring as MA earth leakage is too high from additional appliance with electronics, the ring can be split into two radials by fitting another 32A DP AFDD and disconnecting behind one of the sockets giving lots of power at all the sockets. I have no tripping on the AFDD protected ring.

A broken ring of course is rare, if it does occur then I am covered as the cable is 4mm. It was also cheaper to keep all the cables carrying higher current (power), 4mm.

An AFDD is an MCB, RCD and arc fault detection all in one unit. Brilliant devices preventing fires.

Even if sockets were available with Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear (from what I know only white MK are available) I would not run the rings current through the screwless socket. I would still use Wago/In-Sure lever connectors at the rear of the backbox to take the rings high current, keeping current only destined for a socket running through that sockets terminals. Eliminating a screwed connection at the rear of a socket is a clear plus, making the ring even more robust and bombproof. Additionally use screwless AFDDs if and when they are available then a ring as I described beats any bunch of radials hands down being 100% screwless.

Cables have been terminated into sockets for decades and when done properly won’t fail it’s usually the socket pins themselves.

 

[Steve-S]

4mm t&e is stranded cable and more than flexible enough to dress neatly behind sockets, the terminals of which are more than capable of carrying the current intended to pass through them. I regularly wire sockets in 4mm pvc singles and sometimes tuff sheath cable which is solid core in 4mm.

I do occasionally find loose connections, but those are down to incompetence or DIY work, but those occasions are few and far between - perhaps because I mostly work in environments where people don't tinker with stuff they don't understand.

I stated previously that I didn't disagree with much of your reasoning, but would have done things differently and that's with good reason. While most appliances in the average home could easily run off one ring, customers might not like what eventually transpires when one appliance develops a fault.

I'm confident in my abilities where installation of fixed wiring is concerned, but less so about the long term reliability of domestic appliances.

Can a flat be successfully wired with a total of three circuits? Of course it can, but doing so may be less than ideal for a whole host of reasons.

Hi, When I was an electrician I saw far too many problems with sockets and their terminals. One was crushing the cables between the back of the backbox and the back of the socket, forcing cables partially out of terminals (common problem). To rectify is make it easy to push back the socket using 2.5mm flex. One solution is avoid high current through socket terminals. As a kid I could see it was a weak point. Another additional solution was avoid screwed terminals. I did all that. I explained all this in previous posts.

I found lots of loose connections, and also on my own installation ten years after installation, of which I used MK sockets which were the cream at the time.

If there is a fault on a ring it is a matter of unplugging all appliances, or switching off all sockets and fused spurs then switch back on. If fine then the wiring is fine. Then switch back on the appliances one by one to get the fault. Not a problem, not needing multiple rings or radials.

I share your concerns about reliability of domestic appliances, and their safety aspect. Cheap Turkish fridges prone to fires that would not even trip with an RCBO. Maybe an AFDD would trip. I read an AFDD would have tripped on the cheap fridge that caught fire in Grenfell, hence AFDDs at last in high rises, and 'recommended' on all circuits. AFDDs have made rings near bombproof, with adjustments as have outlined.

Flats and houses were successfully wired with three circuits for sure. I gave the example of the 4 bed house with five circuits, could have been four as the backup immersion was never ever used. We over engineer, creating excessive cost.

Mr Mainine, the circular argument is emerging. Read what I wrote it is all there. The 4mm was because of three points which I previously made:

1. It was cheaper to stadardise on the cooker radial and ring using one size of cable.
2. It also is a safety backup in case the ring is broken for any reason. The cable will not cook.
3. The ring can be split into two radials if the need is there and still deliver high volumes of power at all sockets being 4mm.

The Continental setup using expensive multiple circuits does not have the protection I have with only three. I could have gone all the way and had AFDDs on all three circuits, but cost was a consideration after the assessment of risk on the cooker and lighting circuits.

 

[nicebutdim]

Hi, When I was an electrician I saw far too many problems with sockets and their terminals. One was crushing the cables between the back of the backbox and the back of the socket, forcing cables partially out of terminals (common problem). To rectify is make it easy to push back the socket using 2.5mm flex. One solution is avoid high current through socket terminals. As a kid I could see it was a weak point. Another additional solution was avoid screwed terminals. I did all that. I explained all this in previous posts.

I found lots of loose connections, and also on my own installation ten years after installation, of which I used MK sockets which were the cream at the time.

If there is a fault on a ring it is a matter of unplugging all appliances, or switching off all sockets and fused spurs then switch back on. If fine then the wiring is fine. Then switch back on the appliances one by one to get the fault. Not a problem, not needing multiple rings or radials.

I share your concerns about reliability of domestic appliances, and their safety aspect. Cheap Turkish fridges prone to fires that would not even trip with an RCBO. Maybe an AFDD would trip. I read an AFDD would have tripped on the cheap fridge that caught fire in Grenfell, hence AFDDs at last in high rises, and 'recommended' on all circuits. AFDDs have made rings near bombproof, with adjustments as have outlined.

Flats and houses were successfully wired with three circuits for sure. I gave the example of the 4 bed house with five circuits, could have been four as the backup immersion was never ever used. We over engineer, creating excessive cost.

Mr Mainine, the circular argument is emerging. Read what I wrote it is all there. The 4mm was because of three points which I previously made:

1. It was cheaper to stadardise on the cooker radial and ring using one size of cable.
2. It also is a safety backup in case the ring is broken for any reason. The cable will not cook.
3. The ring can be split into two radials if the need is there and still deliver high volumes of power at all sockets being 4mm.

The Continental setup using expensive multiple circuits does not have the protection I have with only three. I could have gone all the way and had AFDDs on all three circuits, but cost was a consideration after the assessment of risk on the cooker and lighting circuits.

The problems you describe resulted from poor design and blind implementation of that design.

Increased cable size does not resolve the issue of crushed and cut cables - all things being even it would increase the risk, so I'll assume you chased in appropriately sized boxes and avoided the issue in the same manner as any other competent person would.

I'll also assume the lever connectors used are rated for full potential circuit current for the type of conductor selected. That's another rabbit hole I'm happy to avoid.

We've had another member, who posted from a couple of different accounts, propose an almost identical installation to your own, with sockets spurred from lever connector joints, minimal number of circuits to reduce afdd cost etc. That member also shunned discussion of their ideas, but it must be understood that this is a discussion forum, where members share opinions, and not an online pulpit toward which no dissent can be directed.

I repeat again that I'm happy for you to install as you see fit, but the rest of us are obliged to take many other factors into consideration.