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Clamp meters (for measuring current) are not only useful for fault finding and diagnostics. They are also useful for locating circuits in messy boards, particularly neutrals.

For instance, following an addition or alteration to a circuit, you will want to do an IR test, which obviously requires disconnection of the neutral and line conductors. The line is usually easy, but finding the correct neutral can often be problemmatic, especially if wired in singles, and you're presented with summat like this:

[ElectriciansForums.net] Tips and tricks?

[ElectriciansForums.net] Tips and tricks?

Yep, there's a neutral bar in there somewhere. No, I'm not allowed to power down half the installation to disconnect the right hand breakers to find it.

Here's how to do it: before you start your addition or alteration, the circuit will presumably be energised. Clamp the line conductor of that circuit, make a note of the reading (say, 2.68A, for lights) - will need a load on, obviously. Now clamp individual neutral cables one at a time, starting with the ones that are the same CSA as the line conductor.

If you get one that reads about the same, then (assuming you have permission to isolate), isolate that circuit. Does the reading go to zero? If yes, you've probably got the right circuit - although there's still a very small possibility that you've got the wrong circuit, and the load (on another circuit that you've got your clamp meter around) happened to go off at the time you flicked the switch on your intended circuit. So switch it back on again. Does the reading go back up again? Cool. Mark up that cable. Now do safe isolation and do your work.

I'm sure you all know this, but to be absolutely clear: this method (clamp meter) does NOT prove isolation, it only indicates the likely cable for that circuit. Use the correct instrument(s) to prove dead and follow safe working procedures.
 
Clamp meters (for measuring current) are not only useful for fault finding and diagnostics. They are also useful for locating circuits in messy boards, particularly neutrals.

For instance, following an addition or alteration to a circuit, you will want to do an IR test, which obviously requires disconnection of the neutral and line conductors. The line is usually easy, but finding the correct neutral can often be problemmatic, especially if wired in singles, and you're presented with summat like this:

View attachment 31366

View attachment 31367

Yep, there's a neutral bar in there somewhere. No, I'm not allowed to power down half the installation to disconnect the right hand breakers to find it.

Here's how to do it: before you start your addition or alteration, the circuit will presumably be energised. Clamp the line conductor of that circuit, make a note of the reading (say, 2.68A, for lights) - will need a load on, obviously. Now clamp individual neutral cables one at a time, starting with the ones that are the same CSA as the line conductor.

If you get one that reads about the same, then (assuming you have permission to isolate), isolate that circuit. Does the reading go to zero? If yes, you've probably got the right circuit - although there's still a very small possibility that you've got the wrong circuit, and the load (on another circuit that you've got your clamp meter around) happened to go off at the time you flicked the switch on your intended circuit. So switch it back on again. Does the reading go back up again? Cool. Mark up that cable. Now do safe isolation and do your work.

I'm sure you all know this, but to be absolutely clear: this method (clamp meter) does NOT prove isolation, it only indicates the likely cable for that circuit. Use the correct instrument(s) to prove dead and follow safe working procedures.

FFS, why have I never thought of this one before!
 
My dad was suffering with nuisance tripping but so infrequent that it was hard to track, so I made an extension lead about 1 foot long and took about 3 inches of the external sheathing off in the middle to expose the 3 cores of the flex (still insulated). Allowed me to plug in appliances one by one and check the current running through the CPC. Turned out it was a faulty floor lamp that was trickling to earth.

The lead is heavily marked "FOR USE WITH CLAMP METER ONLY" and tucked away in a box, so not like I will use it to plug in the lawn mower.
 
High Tower I like the way you resolved the problem (respect) but...... if you have full access to the house, clamp the live tail and shut down the board. Turn each MCB on as needed, then turn the appliances on. Faster way to find this type of fault without doing any cabling work :smile:

Clamp meters are a very useful tool when used correctly. :wink:
 
High Tower I like the way you resolved the problem (respect) but...... if you have full access to the house, clamp the live tail and shut down the board. Turn each MCB on as needed, then turn the appliances on. Faster way to find this type of fault without doing any cabling work :smile:

Clamp meters are a very useful tool when used correctly. :wink:

Do you mean clamp the earth?

I hate my electricity going off as it means I have to set the digital clocks again (who uses a 9v battery for backup? not me) - just used this method to try and save on disruption.
 
Sorry HT I did not read your post correctly. Yes what you have done is correct, well done, good way of finding a fault on an appliance.

The method I posted above works for circuits when clamping L-N-E at a time and plugging things in whilst the house is shut down. Saves time and effort (and frustration). Well done, I like the way you think.
 
Do you mean clamp the earth?

I hate my electricity going off as it means I have to set the digital clocks again (who uses a 9v battery for backup? not me) - just used this method to try and save on disruption.

With an earth leakage clamp just clamp both line and Neutral tails at the same time. The reading on the meter is the imbalance between the two, IE, the earth leakage current.
 
Last edited:
With an earth leakage clamp just clamp both line and Neutral tails at the same time. The reading on the meter is the imbalance between the two, IE, the earth leakage current.

Yep, I understand this, however it was easier (as in disruption) in this instance to go around plugging in my mocked up extension lead one by one
 

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