UFH + Radiators + Combi

[Schumacher K1]

Hello all,
Im not an electrician, but please don't bite.
I am renovating a house, and receiving conflicting advice / quotes from electricians, and don't know which is correct, and so I'm looking for a bit of confirmation.

My plumber has installed the pipe work, and boiler. The UFH is yet to be laid.

The system description is:
Combi boiler (Baxi Duotec 40).
Downstairs UFH with 3 zones. I have purchased the kit from the underfloorheatingstore, and also purchased a UH4 HeatMiser wiring centre, manifold incl pump and actuators, and 4 x Heatmiser Neo thermostats.

Upstairs is radiator heating.

I have had 3 electricians round so far, and each suggesting a different layout.

1) Wire the rads thermostat straight to the 2 way valve on Radiator pipes.
2) Use 2 wiring centres, one for UFH, one for radiators?
3) Us the Heat Miser wiring centre for all.

I'm a bit confused, and have lost a bit of faith in the guys coming to the house, and so I'm coming to this board to try and get a clear idea of what is the ideal setup.

I've attached a picture of what I think is the best solution, but I'm not an electrician.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Midwest]

Not done many wet UFH systems myself, but did one recently. House with mainly radiators, UFH in kitchen extension. Done simply with S-Plan valves & wiring. Have you enquired with the retailor/manufacturer of your supplied UFH?

 

[Schumacher K1]

The bottom part of the diagram above comes from the manufacturer. I Can give them a call, but not sure I should be doing that, but rather my electrician?

 

[Octopus]

You need to find a more competent spark locally. ........

When you say North East - want to be more specific?

 

[Schumacher K1]

I think you're right Murdoch. I tried one of these "post the job online and invite quotes" But I'm not convinced by who turned up. The area is South Shields at the mouth of the river Tyne.

 

[Sparkie30]

Hi

I would not bother with wiring centre unless you want each room controlled seperatly. ( no point in my view as you wood have to set all stats the same or near the same)

If you buy wiring centres then you would need stats, actators and also labouring. unnecessary expense me thinks.

I would have a nest 2nd gen ( because you have a combi) doing ufh and another stat doing yours rads.

Had ufh done in my house bought wiring centre and actuators never used them.

 

[Leesparkykent]

use the UH4 for the lot, dead simple as it's all wire by numbers...Keep it simple.

 

[bigspark17]

I would do as sparky no1, wire up stat directly to wiring centre opening zone valve. Though i have suspicions that youve had no electricians round and your stuck between thoose 3 options.
Dont know what @Sparkie30 is on..

 

[Bellendian]

A lot of it depends on the physical layout. The heatmiser wiring centre will need to be adjacent to the manifold, so if the zone valve and boiler are miles away it could make sense to use an additional wiring centre. Either way you'd need 5 core from valve to wiring centre.
I'm trying to decide if you need another 2 port valve on this setup.. I guess not, in that if the rads are calling for heat but the ufh isn't, then the actuators on the manifold will be closed so the ufh won't heat up. Which begs the question why when I've wired up these systems on an s plan with a cylinder, the plumbers have always fitted 3 2 port valve, 1 for each zone?

 

[Schumacher K1]

Thanks for the replys.
The heatmiser and manifold will be next to each other, and within 3m of the boiler and zone valve.
I don't think I need a 2nd 2 port valve, there is a "blending valve" on the UFH loop, which blends hot water from the boiler when the UFH need sheating up (remember the UFH runs at less than 40 degrees, but the radiator central heating at around 60 - 70 degrees).

But don't take my word on this, I'm not in a trade (I work in a factory), just trying to get a clear understanding of what I'm paying for.

 

[davesparks]

At first glance I would say the three options presented are all viable and it’s just a case of personal preference on the part of each electrician.
There’s simply more than one way of achieving the desired result, it doesn’t necessarily mean any of them are wrong.

 

[Midwest]

Thanks for the replys.
The heatmiser and manifold will be next to each other, and within 3m of the boiler and zone valve.
I don't think I need a 2nd 2 port valve, there is a "blending valve" on the UFH loop, which blends hot water from the boiler when the UFH need sheating up (remember the UFH runs at less than 40 degrees, but the radiator central heating at around 60 - 70 degrees).

But don't take my word on this, I'm not in a trade (I work in a factory), just trying to get a clear understanding of what I'm paying for.

Your correct that there is a 'blending valve' on the manifold for the UFH, but as far as I'm aware (I'm not a plumber), you still require a zone valve for the UFH zone. That was the manufacturers instructions for the UFH heating pack, the 'blending valve' in my case worked thermostatically, like a shower valve, mixing heated water from the boiler, the UFH stat called for that from the boiler.

I would suggest you contact your manufacturer to verify, plumbing & electrical requirements.

 

[davesparks]

Yes you do normally still fit a two port valve for the supply to the ufh manifold

 

[Sparkie30]

@bigspark17

Haha if you care to read it and understand it what i basically said is same as sparkie no1.