wall light back box's??

[bobbybrown]

when i wire wall lights i normally spur from a joint box so that i have 1 cable per wall light without a back box behind the light, read somewhere you can get small back box's that you can loop in and out from and conveniently line up with fixing screws for most lights

anyone heard of these back box's?

 

[RWJ]

Just use architrave back boxes


AS PER BELOW
MK Single Architrave Flush Metal Back Box Aluminium, 03921RPZIC

 

[Des 56]

MK Single Architrave Flush Metal Back Box Aluminium, 03921RPZICDo you mean these

RWJ
To quick on the draw I reckon for me

 

[bobbybrown]

ah cheers guys, i keep ending up with about 6 cables to connect in an enclosure when doing lights so thinking of ways to reduce cables

 

[RWJ]

ah cheers guys, i keep ending up with about 6 cables to connect in an enclosure when doing lights so thinking of ways to reduce cables

What about bringing a Neutral to the light switch.......... NO DON'T EVEN GO THERE!!!

 

[telectrix]

What about bringing a Neutral to the light switch.......... NO DON'T EVEN GO THERE!!!

i would.

 

[DurhamSparky]

i would also!!

 

[SMB]

Take a neutral to the switch.

easy peasy.

The connections will then be much more accessible than if they are hidden behind some hideous wall light.









I think I need to get out more.

 

[DurhamSparky]

let the debate WAR begin!!!!

 

[SMB]

Grin.....

 

[BlueToBits]

I've not seen or needed them for a few years, but we used to use plaster depth plastic ceiling rose back-boxes. They were the same diameter as a conduiit BESA box with two 4mm captive nuts. They had cable knockouts in the rear snd edges and were just deep enough for a strip of four 5A connectors. We used them so that conduit box lids could be used to cover the points so that fittings could be installed at a later date.

 

[bobbybrown]

bringing the neutrals to the switch is a good idea as it saves doing the connections in cramped loft space and testing is easier, however if the customer wanted grid switch's/dimmers etc then you might have a space problem, always use a deep back box
my boss is oldskool and goes ape if he see's neutrals at the switch so i hide my other cables in capping and pull through the last few inches later

in my opinion there are pro's and cons for using either method

looping in and out of light is good when you are wiring center lights, this is also helpful when you need temp light's as you can just liven the feed via a switch next to cu that will bring on all the lights and wire the switch drops later , keeps the builders of your back too

looping in from switch is good when you wire spot lights that come ready assembled, these light normally only accept 2 cables so you cant have feed in/ feed out/ switch live unless you use a jb which i think is a bad thing because there's more to go wrong

when you wire the other kinds of spots which you have to connect to a heat resistant cable then you have to use a joint box at every light unless there really close together, which i why i suggest using the assembled kits

 

[Des 56]

Bobby has touched on a subject that could do with some debate on this forum
neutrals at switches or not

 

[bobbybrown]

like everything depends on the situation

 

[malcolmsanford]

Bobby has touched on a subject that could do with some debate on this forum
neutrals at switches or not

Are you hoping to celebrate a 4th anniversary .......................