which bulbs to choose for spotlights in kitchen

[i=p/u]

i have 3m x 5m and the room height is 2.4m kitchen space to illuminate , i have decided on 2 rows of 4 spotlights, which bulb would you guys from expierience think suit purpose, as there is warm white, bright white etc.. thanks knowledable guys and dolls

 

[mogga]

haler evoled warm white led 7 year warrenty on these and they look good

 

[i=p/u]

cheers mogga . il have a look in cef when i go over, see if any good deals for me. if i buy normal fire rated downlights and can i fit energy efficent bulbs later, this my first altering job and im trying to cover everything. is there anything you think i have missed out. can i just come from juction box in 1.5mm t&e to downlight or would you recommend flex

 

[rsmck]

haler evoled warm white led 7 year warrenty on these and they look good

I'd also look at the Osram Parathom range - I have their Warm White (model 80328 I think) dotted around a few places and they're great - LED has come a long way, particularly in colour temperature and many are dimmable (not those parathoms, the new ones are though), wouldn't really consider using CCFL energy savers any more

 

[SimpleSimon]

cheers mogga . il have a look in cef when i go over, see if any good deals for me. if i buy normal fire rated downlights and can i fit energy efficent bulbs later, this my first altering job and im trying to cover everything. is there anything you think i have missed out. can i just come from juction box in 1.5mm t&e to downlight or would you recommend flex

Doesn't make a difference really mate. As long as you've worked out the correct cable size, volt drop, transformers for each light or one for all you'll be cool. LED lights are the way.

 

[electromonkey]

My old tutor used to say "Bulbs are for gardeners, lamps are for electricians". ;-)

 

[i=p/u]

so if you rub your lamp does a genie come out pitty patyy petty, your a spark all right

 

[telectrix]

wagos in a wago box at old light position. T/E looped through 2" ashley JBs, one for each downlight. Heat Resistant flex to each downlight. use 230V GU 10s, not 12V with silly transformers. replace halogen GU10s whenever with LEDs.

 

[i=p/u]

spot on lad im growing with confidence in this long thread.... isit common sense to find joists before you bore wholes for fittings and what distance would you keep spots off the walls, and from your exierience tel would 2 fittings be enough to liht up 3m width... thank you jedi

 

[telectrix]

on your room width, space 1m from each wall, that will give you 1m between the 2 rows. simple. then the other way, 1m spacing. but find the joists before making final positions as the downlights won't go in on a joist. need to be at least 50mm from joist to edge of fitting.

 

[i=p/u]

cheers all makes sense.... would you take from kitchen cuboards, as they come out 400mm or take into wall. as as this space doesnt need illuminated.. lol bk to your cage i=p/u

 

[nickblake]

you dont need flex with halers as they are wired ashley 501 JB the , BG have bought out some new enclosures going to try some they look abit viiouse to me though

 

[i=p/u]

oyster fittings im using , wagos are pots of gold at end of rainbows to people i asked

 

[telectrix]

cheers all makes sense.... would you take from kitchen cuboards, as they come out 400mm or take into wall. as as this space doesnt need illuminated.. lol bk to your cage i=p/u[/QUOT

split the ceiling width equally from wall to front of cupboard.

 

[i=p/u]

now the question, if you had todo this job, how long you talking in time, im saying 6-8 hours for me

 

[Dunc]

In a kitchen I always space the lights so they are 600mm off the walls unless there are tall units in the way. This will put the lights so they are inline with the front edge of the worktop. That way when the customer is working the light is over head and won't generate shadow over the work area. Any further towards the middle of the room and you constantly cast shadow on the work area. Try to keep the lights about 1m apart at most to gain an even spread. I'd also go for the Halers EvoLEDs too if you can convince the customer to buy in to them. The warm white ones are the best and use choc boxes and Wago connectors for a nice quick second fix. A chalk line or a piece of string is also handy to ensure the 2 rows of 4 are in line. There's nothing worse then a line of recessed lights that are as bent as a dogs hind leg.

 

[i=p/u]

i have laser level , never really used it before..... bout time i started using my collection, the futures bright and thanks for a step by step lead. moreless!!

 

[Southern Spark]

now the question, if you had todo this job, how long you talking in time, im saying 6-8 hours for me

if you are just starting out then 6 to 8 hours is reasonable, though you cant expect the customer to pay top whack for that amount of time. Its hard without seeing the job, but an experienced spark would do it in about 2 hours if you have access above the kitchen. 3 hours plus if you have to go upstairs and move furniture, lift floorboards etc, then however long it takes to test. Jobs like this will soon become second nature to you and you will get quicker.

 

[mogga]

the Halers come with about a 300mm tail built in no need for flex just a JB wago n chock box ect CHECK your prices for them Iv seen them listed @ £35-£75 Big difference

 

[i=p/u]

cheers took me two days myself from working below, unforseen extra work and treading carefuly(still drilled a pipe), no rush , jobs a guden nearly. if there was a pipe close to fitting would you change bulbs from gu10 50W to led 4W??

 

[telectrix]

depends how close the pipe is. you've already drilled a hole in it. you don't want to melt it as well!

 

[i=p/u]

cheers took me two days myself from working below, unforseen extra work and treading carefuly(still drilled a pipe), no rush , jobs a guden nearly. if there was a pipe close to fitting would you change bulbs from gu10 50W to led 4W??​