Which conduit holders for metal conduit?

[HappyHippyDad]

I am going to need to install a small amount of galvanised steel conduit, leading down to perhaps 4 sockets and a light switch. This is in a domestic premise. The customer wants the industrial type look and they want it looking very nice, they are happy to pay the price for this.

I have found 2 different types of wall holders and wondered if these are what are usually used, or if there are more options? Option 1 looks nicer but i don't thin it would work.

1. Brass Munsen Rings 22mm 5 Pack - Screwfix - https://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-munsen-rings-22mm-5-pack/8699V?kpid=8699V&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6ShBhCMARIsAH9A0qUCFGWJoYE3Jy86ysR0qEStLGnHKSWH0jAEBEy5YAoRsVUqbJ84G3gaAsiREALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I realise the munsen ring is 22mm and for 22mm pipe, used for plumbing. Would this still work? I am not sure if pipe used for plumbing is measured the same as electrical conduit, I.e does 22mm mean the diameter of the pipe (as it would in electrical conduit) or the diameter of the hole? I have a feeling these rings would not fit sungly and therefore not work.

2. https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/...vmCi1fOLSbK9A6DUhD6zEeRSR2M6gy60aAlTUEALw_wcB

Cheers

 

[davesparks]

Not if installed correctly

This has not been my experience.

It conforms to the same BS ES no as conventional threaded systems and has a longer lifespan due to it being fully galvanised whereas external use for threaded can degrade over time and the thread is normally the weak point

If installed correctly threaded conduit will last just fine externally.
I'm not sure that Conlok wouldnt allow water in at each joint though.

 

[mart spark]

This has not been my experience.


If installed correctly threaded conduit will last just fine externally.
I'm not sure that Conlok wouldnt allow water in at each joint though.

I believe if you want to maintain IP rating for protection against water ingress then some sealant i.e. silicon has to be used at the joint, however i could be wrong on that. In regards to what type of saddle to use how about the stainless steel clips by D Line?

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

It looks like distance saddles may be the way to go, although I may offer the choice of the fancy munsen ones that @westward10 posted.

 

[nicebutdim]

It must be tight so it doesn't slip which then causes the marking
Or you can do away with threading altogether and use the Conlok range

I don't believe Conlok offer stainless steel accessories. I could be wrong, but can find only galv accessories within their range.

Not if installed correctly

It conforms to the same BS ES no as conventional threaded systems and has a longer lifespan due to it being fully galvanised whereas external use for threaded can degrade over time and the thread is normally the weak point

If it will receive that much impact then the saddles will give way before these accessories

You can also mix and match. Using the pre threaded end of tube on one end and conlok on the other

Conlok (according to Metpro website) conforms to BSEN61386-21:2004, which I believe has been superceded by BSEN61386-21:2021. I don't have a copy of either standard, but can't help wondering what stipulation it makes with regards to ingress of water. I've used Conlok on quite a few installations now and, while I find myself struggling to argue against its use for indoor installation, can't believe it would afford the same level of ingress protection as its threaded competitor.

There's no doubt that threads represent the weakest point in a conduit installation, but it's not common for conduit to fail at that point. If I fold scrap conduit it will often break at base of threads, but I don't believe this would be a common point of failure in normal service. The worst conduit I've come across was completely submerged and corroded to nothing in places, yet all threaded connections remained sound.

 

[pc1966]

I have seen the conlock stuff and while I can appreciate how easier it is to do (more so given I don't have my own conduit vice/bender...) I would not be very happy relying on the grub screw fixing to make the structure the CPC.

 

[nicebutdim]

I have seen the conlock stuff and while I can appreciate how easier it is to do (more so given I don't have my own conduit vice/bender...) I would not be very happy relying on the grub screw fixing to make the structure the CPC.

I had doubts about this also, but the powers that be deem it to be acceptable. What I will say is that the connection between conduit and accessory is quite good - grubs screws are fine, tighten up well and press conduit firmly against box/coupler, but the supplied hex keys are junk.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Have used ConLok a few times and it is lovelt to work with , no more threading just nip up the grub screw and done.
I did some ConLok in a sport centre and have been back since and while there I did check the grub screws and all were still perfectly tight. Unless modifying some old threaded , I will only use ConLok now for the occasional conduit jobs that I do

 

[nicebutdim]

Have used ConLok a few times and it is lovelt to work with , no more threading just nip up the grub screw and done.
I did some ConLok in a sport centre and have been back since and while there I did check the grub screws and all were still perfectly tight. Unless modifying some old threaded , I will only use ConLok now for the occasional conduit jobs that I do

It wouldn't be my first choice, but is certainly quick to install.

 

[Dustydazzler]

It wouldn't be my first choice, but is certainly quick to install.

I was pretty sceptical when I first installed it, thought it might be a bit flimsy, but if you nip up the grub screws properly then its a pretty solid. I have used the ConLok system twice and on both occasions its been quick, and does the job.
I won't go back to threading unless its for an alteration of an already thread job

 

[ipf]

It may have a use in light duty situations.
Many of us will regularly come across old threaded conduit systems, up to 60 years old. No way ConLok could compare. It will not suffice, nor last, for heavy duty industrial purposes. I still use galv threaded regularly.

Then again....many of us believed, and still do, that MICC was best in loads of instances.........look what's happened there. Shame, but I suppose it's down to cost more than anything........again.

 

[Dustydazzler]

It may have a use in light duty situations.
Many of us will regularly come across old threaded conduit systems, up 60 years old. No way ConLok could compare. It will not suffice, nor last, for heavy duty industrial purposes. I still use galv threaded regularly.

Then again....many of us believed, and still do, that MICC was best in loads of instances.........look what's happened there. Shame, but I suppose it's down to cost more than anything........again.

Time , cost , speed , ease of install , ease of modifying install something like ConLok will win every time.

Will it last 100 years up on a warehouse wall ? maybe / maybe not , I won't be around to inspect it

Probably some young sparks in 100 years time will look at ConLok and say what a load of old tat and have some new funky bendy flexible metal conduit they use to replace it all

 

[ipf]

Time , cost , speed , ease of install , ease of modifying install something like ConLok will win every time.

Will it last 100 years up on a warehouse wall ? maybe / maybe not , I won't be around to inspect it

Probably some young sparks in 100 years time will look at ConLok and say what a load of old tat and have some new funky bendy flexible metal conduit they use to replace it all

Says a true domestic expert.... ......wink.

 

[nicebutdim]

It may have a use in light duty situations.
Many of us will regularly come across old threaded conduit systems, up 60 years old. No way ConLok could compare. It will not suffice, nor last, for heavy duty industrial purposes. I still use galv threaded regularly.

Then again....many of us believed, and still do, that MICC was best in loads of instances.........look what's happened there. Shame, but I suppose it's down to cost more than anything........again.

I guess that's the factor that determines a lot in every industry. The choice between best option and something 90% as good is easily swayed when the 90% option costs 25% more in materials, but saves 30% on considerable labour costs.

A while back I looked into replacing a run of MICC that had shorted after 70 years, as it had been bent to tightly when originally installed. Sadly the cost difference between it and 1.5mm Tuff Sheath was so vast, there was no way to justify the longer lasting option as the only factor in its favour, other than longevity (on a building that will be torn down before Tuff Sheath passes its use by date), was gaining experience of working with it.

 

[Dustydazzler]

I must have been one of the last generation of college students to have to make off Micc as part of the course

In 20-25 years time they new lot won;t have a Scooby Do what Micc / Pyro is / was

 

[ipf]

I must have been one of the last generation of college students to have to make off Micc as part of the course

In 20-25 years time they new lot won;t have a Scooby Do what Micc / Pyro is / was

Probably right there. And any help wanted they'll be whistling for it as far as I'm concerned....