Which connecting block for oven

[exdirectory]

I am replacing my under counter oven with a new 3kw one, oven is on its own circuit and isolation oven switch, the cable is either 4 or 6mm coming through wall where I need to join. The oven came with flex but no plug, which type of connector block should I use to join the two?

Similarly, have had gas safe person replace the hob, now need to connect the igniter, hace cable coming through wall again and is on switched fcu, which type of connector block would you use? And should they be enclosed in a box?

 

[Rockingit]

How much actual space is there between the back of the appliance and the wall? The proper way of doing this is by using a cooker connection unit (CCU) which is readily available from any electrical wholesaler, however the problem you may have is that it won't fit as a surface mount as you normally need an extra deep box for them (48-50mm) - in which case you'll need to chase out to fit a back box. Not particularly difficult if you're used to doing it but might be tricky as a first DIY exploration as the tools will probably cost as much as getting a sparks in for an hour!

 

[Lucien Nunes]

which type of connector block would you use? And should they be enclosed in a box?

Not only should, but must. All terminals need to be enclosed in a box, with the cable sheaths clamped or glanded so that no strain can be put on the connections even if the cable is tugged, and the said box fixed securely to the wall / cabinet. One does see a lot of floating inline connections but they are never correct and sometimes downright dangerous. The choice of terminals themselves is something of a personal one. If they are accessible they don't need to be maintenance-free; Wago lever terminals are probably the best and most popular but this is only part of the story. The box and its cable anchorage is equally important.

 

[pc1966]

If it really is a 3kW oven and so is fine for a 13A fuse then a FCU is an obvious choice. If this is coming from an isolator switch that is accessible (as it should be) then you don't need any switch on the FCU so something like this would do:

K337 WHI | MK Electric 13A, 1 Gang Fused Spur | RS

uk.rs-online.com

You can buy them from Screwfix slightly cheaper as code 29775 but they don't have such good photos of it.

However, if you need more than 13A, and a check of the oven's instructions should tell you, then as @Rockingit said you get dedicated cooker cable outlets that can take up to 10mm cable, etc, but they can be chunky.

 

[Rockingit]

If it really is a 3kW oven and so is fine for a 13A fuse then a FCU is an obvious choice. If this is coming from an isolator switch that is accessible (as it should be) then you don't need any switch on the FCU so something like this would do:

K337 WHI | MK Electric 13A, 1 Gang Fused Spur | RS

uk.rs-online.com

You can buy them from Screwfix slightly cheaper as code 29775 but they don't have such good photos of it.

However, if you need more than 13A, and a check of the oven's instructions should tell you, then as @Rockingit said you get dedicated cooker cable outlets that can take up to 10mm cable, etc, but they can be chunky.

I’m making an assumption that it’s going to be 6mm T&E, and whilst yes an FSU may suffice there’s still the practical issue of mounting it - at which point you might as well just do it properly

 

[nicebutdim]

MK K5045 has a fairly slim profile as cooker connection units go and neatly dressed terminations may be fine in a 35mm box, given the supply cable seems to be no more than 6mm.

Over here it's fairly common to run T&E from the isolator with enough length left to terminate directly into an oven, but I think it's dreadful practice and refuse to do so.

 

[exdirectory]

Thanks for all the replies, that is very helpful and kind of you all to point me in the right direction.

Have all the tools, so putting in a back box no problem, I will see if I can get a larger back box in and do it properly with a ccu, someone could own the place after us and swap out the oven of course.

What about the gas hob, this is just for an igniter, same again comes with flex and no plug The cable is connected to an FCU above counter. My guess is correct way is similar, something in a back box, but seems silly to use another FCU? Could just add a plug and socket I guess?

 

[pc1966]

If you can put in a deep enough back-box then definitely go for the proper oven cable connector.

For the gas hob igniter then either a FCU or a 13A plug and socket (3A fuses in either case, of course!) is fine.