Will my circuit take appliances drawing 6000 watts? (None sparky) | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Will my circuit take appliances drawing 6000 watts? (None sparky) in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

G

gazawee

FORGIVE MY IGNORANCE (I'M NOT A SPARKY) JUST WANT TO UNDERSTAND BETTER


I just purchased a catering trailer that is already wired up.

The road side supply is a 32amp (commando socket).

Consumer unit in the trailer is fitted with 1 x 63amp / 30mA RCD Incomer (Trip Switch) plus 1 x 32 amp Miniature Circuit Breaker (for sockets) and 1 x 6 amp Miniature Circuit Breaker (for Lighting).

I thought it a little strange but the external socket on the trailer that will connect to the road side supply is a 16amp commando socket.

I was told that the wire from the external socket to the consumer unit is 6mm and I expect the wire running to the sockets from the consumer unit to be 2.5mm.

Given that I need to be able to plug in to the sockets, appliances that will collectively draw up to almost 6000 watts,



1. Do I need to change my external commando plug from a 16 to a 32

2. If the wires to the sockets are 2.5mm, will they fry when everything is plugged in and do they need to be changed to 6mm?
 
Hi gazawee,

6000 watts will draw approximately 27A if it is all on together (and this obviously doesn't include any lighting). I'm not going to attempt to use diversity to say otherwise because without a list of appliances, it's impossible.

The cable connecting the socket to the consumer unit may be pushed beyond it's limits, depending on the installation method. If it comes through the wall from the socket, is clipped directly to the surface and goes straight into the CU, it's more than ample (47A).

1. If it was my trailer then I would be changing the socket for a 32A, and of course upgrading the flying lead that connects it to the source of power.
2. This depends if they are wired as a ring final circuit or a radial. The rating of the MCB suggests they might be wired as a ring final, but if they aren't, depending on installation method, the cable may only be able to handle 20A and would fry.

My suggestion is have a look for a local member and have them give it the once over to get a definitive answer.
 
@gazawee I have altered your thread title and changed it from 6000 amps to watts, it could have generated some strange replies. I presume it was a typo.
 
Okay just checked the appliances and it should be closer to 5300 (not including lights)

Plugged in appliances:

Fridge 130w
Freezer 150w
Microwave 2600w
Rice Maker 1950w
Soup Kettle 400w

Also has a maypole BATTERY CHARGER 6A 12V (Model P7416)
 
Okay just checked the appliances and it should be closer to 5300 (not including lights)

Plugged in appliances:

Fridge 130w
Freezer 150w
Microwave 2600w
Rice Maker 1950w
Soup Kettle 400w

Also has a maypole BATTERY CHARGER 6A 12V (Model P7416)

So, rough current usage:-

Fridge - 0.6A
Freezer - 0.7A
Microwave - 12A
Rice maker - 8.5A
Soup kettle - 1.8A
Charger - I've assumed basic step down transformer, roughly 20:1, thus 6A output assuming 100% efficiency will draw 0.3A - but I've used 1A for the calculation

Using the diversity calc for socket outlets/fixed equipment for a small shop, 100% of largest load + 75% of remaining gives a maximum demand after diversity of around 21.45A.

So I would still upgrade the socket and flying lead and have a local check it out for you because if it's a radial socket circuit, depending on installation method, it could potentially do damage to the cabling. Paying someone for an hour of their time to check it out is by far the best option... it's much cheaper than a new trailer and without seeing it, it's impossible to give a definite answer about whether it can handle it.
 

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