Wire lighting system (complete novice question) | on ElectriciansForums

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DrNick

1st post on this forum so please be gentle! I’ve not read enough threads to know if it’s the kind of place where ignorant laypeople like me get hung drawn and quartered, or actually receive help - I guess we’ll soon find out! Thanks in advance to those who offer advice - I appreciate that this should maybe be in the DIY section but was hoping for professional advice.

So, we have been doing extensive renovations on an old farmhouse. We have exposed ceiling beams and because we don’t want to loose too much of them we have ditched our initial plan for recessed spot lighting (which might have had issues with the beams anyway…) in favour of a wired lighting system.

Given that I know nothing about things electrical I should probably be just telling a professional what we want and getting it designed and fitted. Or buy an off the shelf kit or two. But we are also skint, so I was hoping to source all the elements myself and just pay for installation, and we want to use MR16 LED lamps so reluctant to shell out for a system that includes halogens only to have to swap them out.

Essentially, my question amounts to: If I design a wire lighting system with e.g. 9 or 12 lamps, is selecting a transformer/driver as simple as adding up the power requirements of all of the individual lamps and speccing the transformer to that? (e.g. 9x 4W lamps would require a 36W driver?). Anything else I should take account of? Also, any sources for MR16 LED lamps that are particularly good/bad?

I'm a member of several other forums (on completely unrelated things) and used to suggesting the search function to people, but it's different when the shoe is on the other foot! Thanks for reading and, as I said at the beginning, thanks in advance for comments!

Nick
 
i'd abandon the MR16 LEDs in favour of GU10s. no worries about matching drivers,
 
If you are getting a electrician in to do the work then they will be able to get the lights you want cheaper than you can, so saving you money.
 
As spoon said, there are certain LED lamps I can get a lot cheaper than a DIYer can....and a sparky is more aware generally of whats decent and whats not, plus most sparks have preferred and hated brands (and it differs between sparks)....get some advice from a local spark, might not be as expensive as you may think....
 
Don't simply make your decisions based on price, some of the cheap ones don't last too long and some of the more expensive integrated units come with a 10 year warranty.......
 
Have a look at the light Rabbit web site for brightness look and the lumen output and also the beam angle to get a decent light you should be looking 4 watts and above
 
Thank you for all of your replies and apologies for not being more active here - busy couple of days! I will get back to pick your brains ASAP!

Nick
 
Okay, now I have had chance to read your replies. The GU10s seem like a good option, but can these be used in a tension wire/tracked format? I thought with the wire systems it had to be low voltage?

HandySparks - yes, it's the systems that run two parallel wires from a transformer with the lamp spanning the wires at intervals.

If I did use MR16s would it, in theory, be as simple as matching the total wattage of the bulbs to a similarly sized driver?

Cheers,

Nick
 
Okay, now I have had chance to read your replies. The GU10s seem like a good option, but can these be used in a tension wire/tracked format? I thought with the wire systems it had to be low voltage?

HandySparks - yes, it's the systems that run two parallel wires from a transformer with the lamp spanning the wires at intervals.

If I did use MR16s would it, in theory, be as simple as matching the total wattage of the bulbs to a similarly sized driver?

Cheers,

Nick

Yes, the open wire systems have to be 'Extra Low Voltage', usually 12V, so not compatible with 230V GU10.

If using MR16 12V lamps, then just choose a driver with an output rated at the total wattage of the lamps or a little above, but never less.
 

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