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That's something else I like about Metabo and Makita. Every component is available to buy as a spare and parts drawings are freely available.
exactly.....I needed a part for my big mitre saw and it was simple to purchase . I also have their Random orbital sander and it sure can sand !!!
 
exactly.....I needed a part for my big mitre saw and it was simple to purchase . I also have their Random orbital sander and it sure can sand !!!

I have a lot of old Makita and Metabo corded tools and most parts are still available at very reasonable prices. Compare that to recent cordless tools from other brands and it looks as though a simple component failure to lead to scrapping of the tool. I guess a lot of tools would be scrapped anyway if something simple failed, but I'm not a fan of throwing stuff away if economical repair can be made. One downside with all modern tools is potted electronics used almost exclusively in brushless models.
 
I have a lot of old Makita and Metabo corded tools and most parts are still available at very reasonable prices. Compare that to recent cordless tools from other brands and it looks as though a simple component failure to lead to scrapping of the tool. I guess a lot of tools would be scrapped anyway if something simple failed, but I'm not a fan of throwing stuff away if economical repair can be made. One downside with all modern tools is potted electronics used almost exclusively in brushless models.
The dewalt 54V grinders are the worst I've seen for that, you cannot buy any part of the inside electronics separately, the motor, switch or contacts go and it totals the grinder for no reason. It really should be illegal to do what they're doing.
 
If you are impressed with the Milwaulke fuel 18V impact driver, wait until you use the Milwaulke 12V surge impact driver. It is hydraulic, quiet, controllable and powerful. Cracking bit of kit, only problem with it is that I now have a spare 18V impact that no longer gets used
 
The dewalt 54V grinders are the worst I've seen for that, you cannot buy any part of the inside electronics separately, the motor, switch or contacts go and it totals the grinder for no reason. It really should be illegal to do what they're doing.
same as Mirka /metabo orbital sanders
 
I have a couple of Milwaukee 18V tools but the M18FID2 is probably the most useful thing I have bought. It really does a great job with the Armeg style holes saws for 20mm/25mm holes and the hex-shank drill bits make it simple and quick for most small holes in wood or metal.

A friend's son has trained as a mechanic and he had a very neat 90-deg 3/8" driver in their 12V range that I really wanted, but actually have little use for!

Apparently there is a quieter hydraulic version of that 1/4" hex impact driver that might be more useful for the smaller work I generally do, but as no sign of mine failing that is going to have to wait.
 
A friend's son has trained as a mechanic and he had a very neat 90-deg 3/8" driver in their 12V range that I really wanted, but actually have little use for!
I have one of those and the 12v angled impact driver in 3/8 drive, they are both excellent tools. I do some mechanical installations and have found them most useful. Also great for working on vehicles, they definitely save the spanner rash on your nuckles:p
 
Ok, I'm a DeWalt guy and have found their stuff very good over the years. however, I am not a heavy, daily user. It's clear thatmanufacturers have different quality in their ranges, so one drill at the cheaper end may be pretty poor compared with their top-end offering.
However, just to throw another range into the mix, at the Men's Shed charity where i do some work, we received a donation of a set of Ridgid cordless power tools and they are built like the proverbial tanks. One member sourced spare batteires while in Canada as they are not easy to get in UK. We run DeWalt in the Shed in the main, but it is the Ridgid ones that get grabbed first for any project.
 
Another thumbs up for Milwaukee Fuel. I do quite a bit of oak timber framing and I need tools that will cut big holes in oak and drive temporary timberfix bolts. I've had 18v Mil Fuel drill and impact driver for 7 years. They have done a lot of work and I am still on the original 5aH batteries. Had to have the impact driver repaired after a slight dropping incident (don't ask) and bought an 18V surge with 5aH as well. It's different - not necessarily better. We've been so impressed my son has recently bought the same set. I use Festool gear too but see no reason to spend crazy amount extra on their drills and drivers (though I do have the super hand 12v drill unit which is great for fitting work).
 
I bought the kit! Milwaukee M18FPP2A2-502X Twin Pack 2-18v-5Ah REDLITHIUM Batteries 2pce - https://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/milwaukee-m18fpp2a2-502x-twin-pack.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18129209029&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw17qvBhBrEiwA1rU9wzoNC440PERJ1VXHjyAJ5Ns8JfSPg3y01Zn0dF0mT_B3SHwkLDRWnxoCN-EQAvD_BwE

They had one set left at a toolstation nearish me for £279. Bargain!

Everyone needs 2 impact drivers and 4 combi drills. :D

In fact, I'm considering relegating the makita kit (slowly) to the shed and (slowly) buying more Milwaukee for the van.
 
Another thumbs up for Milwaukee Fuel. I do quite a bit of oak timber framing and I need tools that will cut big holes in oak and drive temporary timberfix bolts. I've had 18v Mil Fuel drill and impact driver for 7 years. They have done a lot of work and I am still on the original 5aH batteries. Had to have the impact driver repaired after a slight dropping incident (don't ask) and bought an 18V surge with 5aH as well. It's different - not necessarily better. We've been so impressed my son has recently bought the same set. I use Festool gear too but see no reason to spend crazy amount extra on their drills and drivers (though I do have the super hand 12v drill unit which is great for fitting work).
How important is torque for the heavy duty timber drilling or what torque do you need


I bought a 300 nM wrench and Bosch speed cut bits but never used the setup yet for timber work
 
How important is torque for the heavy duty timber drilling or what torque do you need


I bought a 300 nM wrench and Bosch speed cut bits but never used the setup yet for timber work
I would say it is more about the bits than the torque of the drill. I use high quality Fisch auger bits for drilling out mortices and peg holes and the Milwaukee has no trouble with these. (I prefer to drill the waste out of stopped mortices rather than use my chain morticer in most cases.) Also the Milwaukee clutch does not snatch when it hits a hard section of oak. I also have a heavy duty high torque Makita corded drill, much used by framers, and have to be pretty careful with that as it does not have a slip clutch and is powerful enough to break an arm if the bit jams (never used spade bits in this application!) as the drill then spins instantly. I use that with long auger bits when drilling through large sections for peg holes. I think the Fuel tools are excellent.
 

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