complete kitchen rewire

[i=p/u]

have been asked to do kitchen rewire isit ok too split tails and run too new consumer unit with 30mA powerbreaker before board. very likely going to have 63A main switch, 32A ring 2.5mm and seperate circuits for all appliances... on 16A breakes all on 2.5mm. do you reccomend not putting any appliances on the rcd.. i.e fridge freezer. and would you add smoke alarms/heat

 

[i=p/u]

and they looking sockets in the island part of the kitchen , which will have to run under concrete floor, is there a sppecific pipe or will conduit be ok

 

[Rockingit]

It's theoretically OK to run as many CU's in a property as you want, the issue is about clarity and ease of operation and very often less is more I tend to find. If you DO fit a separate board, make sure it's clearly marked, you'll need to have clear indication of where the isolation for it is, and also on the existing board too. You'll also have to fit ONE separate overall main switch BEFORE the tails get split in order to satisfy the requirements for a single point of isolation in a domestic setting. Also of course you need to make sure your earthing is all bombproof, it's not just about the tails.

Generally speaking, by the time you've messed about with all the above it's quicker, easier and cheaper just to fit a new bigger board for the whole place. Shiny shiny. I normally find in kitchens there's a million and one gremlins hidden behind the tiles, so take your time and 'think twice - cut once'!!!

 

[i=p/u]

its a kitchen renovation, double in size and everything has been stgripped out so just a matter off chasing walls 35mm , setting boxes with bonding, then come back next day and cable up and pipe up then let the plasters do their work. maybe you right , be easier just to fit new board , going to have look today, have a real spark meeting me there and guiding me and il be doing the work. the dude knows i lack real expierience with boards so was part of the deal that i help.. its been a good week for me. and only on level 3 and couldnt change a plug 3 years ago

 

[Knobhead]

I wouldn’t worry about the gremlins you may find doing the install.
It’s the hairy ar*ed fully trained kitchen gorilla that would worry me. All re-wired, re-plastered a blank canvas for wrecking your work!

 

[i=p/u]

so come on then, bullet point guide

laser level line for switches, mark out with crayon
wall chaser to slice walls at 35mm and across where boxes will be
sds the chases out
set boxer with bond or hard as a nails lol
20 mill holes in joice for all cables back to cu
pull cables through to each point
hopefull boxes are firmly set and pipe up

then on to the board which is another thread....

 

[i=p/u]

what about this post ladies









and gents

 

[telectrix]

just take the time to do it all right. galv . conduit for in the concrete floor, fix boxes with screws (that's nails with curly shafts) not glue.

 

[spark 68]

fix boxes with screws (that's nails with curly shafts)

Love it ! lol !

Made my day that!

:hurray:

 

[telectrix]

and they have a funny cross on the top. that's for taking them out.

 

[spark 68]

Stop it Tel!

I nearly choked ! and spit coffee on my keyboard

 

[i=p/u]

14 socket outlets, all appliances , 30 spotlights , the job will be done to the best of my ability telectrix, will be no pints on the job

 

[Richard Burns]

I always find them a bit difficult to take out once the hammer has flattened the top!

 

[derek preece]

Seriously though, using a laser to mark out your boxes isn't going to look good if the kitchen fitter can't use a level and/or the tiler is carp.

 

[Richard Burns]

remember to use some dust control on the chaser if possible as they are messy​. new kitchen not too bad for the customer but bad for breathing dust.