Crimping to extend cable length.

Andy C · Aug 16, 2017

Hi all and thanks for the help so far.

Re crimping, I have read posts regarding this before.
I have just seen those heat shrink solder connections.

I was going to use normal red and blue crimps then heat shrink each individual core then heat shrink over the whole T&E.

What are peoples opinions of the solder connection and is it better?

Thanks for any replies

telectrix · Aug 18, 2017

just had better success using a smoke lighter, 1.5mm solid conductors. did a 1000V IR between end od conductor and the plastic . got > 1 Gig, so might be OK with a bit of practice.

Midwest · Aug 18, 2017

telectrix said:
just had better success using a smoke lighter, 1.5mm solid conductors. did a 1000V IR between end od conductor and the plastic . got > 1 Gig, so might be OK with a bit of practice.

I'd better start smoking again

Marvo · Aug 18, 2017

telectrix said:
i bought a few of these to try them out. can't manage to heat the conector enough to melt the solder without melting the plastic.tried a heat gun and gentle mini blow torch. both melted the plastic. answers on a postcard, please.

I use a small heat gun with either a reducing nozzle or a nozzle with a hooked reflector like this;

[ElectriciansForums.net] Crimping to extend cable length.

telectrix · Aug 18, 2017

thanks marvo. i'll see if i can mod my heat gun.

Marvo · Aug 18, 2017

telectrix said:
i bought a few of these to try them out. can't manage to heat the conector enough to melt the solder without melting the plastic.tried a heat gun and gentle mini blow torch. both melted the plastic. answers on a postcard, please.

Maybe the soldder sleeves you were using eren't the best quality...... In the workshop I use a small heat gun with either a reducing nozzle or a nozzle with a hooked reflector like this;

View attachment 37880

When on site a small butane pencil type torch has worked well and I've also used a normal disposable windproof type cigarette lighter on several occasions. All the methods have worked with 100% sucess rates for me.

Andy C · Aug 19, 2017

Thanks for all the replies guys, I know have method I will be happy with.

Deleted member 9648 · Aug 19, 2017

Midwest said:
I take on-board on what my peers tell me about the possible limitations of crimp connectors on solid cables, i.e. that any movement (twisting etc) on the finished crimp such as pulling movement, could result in failure.

I'm just wondering when such movement might take place, after the crimp has been made? Perhaps when the installer is checking the crimp? Not when the crimp has been placed in the wall perhaps (to carry out the repair). Perhaps when used to extend wires inside a CU, when another installer comes along to install other cables or devices? Then similarly, the push in butt splices would be subject to such forces (it's how they are designed to be released), and decrease their effectiveness?

I recall a similar thread on another forum, when a member asked a butt crimp manufacturer if their crimps were suitable for solid cables. They said they were, but if he wanted that in writing, he would have to submit a sample, for them to submit suitable tests.

To carry out a repair on a cable in a plastered wall (i.e. no way of replacing cable, or joint elsewhere), I see no other way than using a butt connector. Crimp or solder.

The movement takes place when dressing cables into place after crimping, once that's done it's no longer practical to check the crimp is still sound .
Another point with crimping cables in a plastered wall is insufficient slack to work with. You need some slack to be able to get the tool in place.

Midwest · Aug 19, 2017

wirepuller said:
The movement takes place when dressing cables into place after crimping, once that's done it's no longer practical to check the crimp is still sound .
Another point with crimping cables in a plastered wall is insufficient slack to work with. You need some slack to be able to get the tool in place.

Not quite sure I agree, that that movement of dressing the cable into place would be sufficient to cause a failure, no more so than using screwed connectors or terminals on accessories?

Whilst I understand your second point, if there is insufficient slack to crimp, there would be insufficient space to use any method.

Deleted member 9648 · Aug 19, 2017

We don't have to agree, I respect your view. But as far as I'm concerned an insulated crimp on a solid core has failed before it's even started. I'm utterly immovable on that one...

davesparks · Aug 19, 2017

The movement in the crimp occurs as a result of the expansion and contraction of the metal as it heats up with the flow of current.
If the conductor and crimp are properly cleaned before fitting then it won't be a problem, but if any oxides or dirt are left in the joint then it will heat up a lot more due to the increased resistance

Derek Maddox · Aug 20, 2017

It was mentioned that the crimp would be in a pipe I do feel that is bad practice

Derek Maddox · Aug 20, 2017

Also solid cables in a crimp to me is poor, I think stranded cabling for crimps, which if you are using twin and earth is difficult

telectrix · Aug 20, 2017

Derek Maddox said:
It was mentioned that the crimp would be in a pipe I do feel that is bad practice

it is bad. stinks and tastes horrible when you light your pipe.

whereabouts in stoke? my lad's in Blurton.

Derek Maddox · Aug 20, 2017

telectrix said:
it is bad. stinks and tastes horrible when you light your pipe.

whereabouts in stoke? my lad's in Blurton.

Werrington

Derek Maddox · Aug 20, 2017

Derek Maddox said:
Werrington

I was born in Blurton many moons ago

Crimping to extend cable length.

Andy C

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telectrix

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Midwest

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Marvo

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telectrix

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Marvo

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Andy C

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Deleted member 9648

Midwest

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Deleted member 9648

davesparks

Derek Maddox

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Derek Maddox

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telectrix

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Derek Maddox

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Derek Maddox

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