Crimping to extend cable length.

[Andy C]

Hi all and thanks for the help so far.

Re crimping, I have read posts regarding this before.
I have just seen those heat shrink solder connections.

I was going to use normal red and blue crimps then heat shrink each individual core then heat shrink over the whole T&E.

What are peoples opinions of the solder connection and is it better?

Thanks for any replies

 

[Bobster]

I already have that yellow crimper, looking at those crimps, they look hardy enough. I was thinking of double shrink tube, one on each conductor and one over the lot or is that overkill.

It's how I've done it when needed.

 

[Specialist]

they are a bit fatter than a yellow crimp connector, but much easier to use as you don't need to get crimp tool into a confined space, then find that 1 of the wired has pulled out when you're trying to crimp.

Who sells them mate ?.

 

[telectrix]

I already have that yellow crimper, looking at those crimps, they look hardy enough. I was thinking of double shrink tube, one on each conductor and one over the lot or is that overkill.

not overkill. what you suggest should be OK.

 

[telectrix]

Who sells them mate ?.

Ideal Splice In Line Wire Connector 30-1042 crimp free Electrical Connectors | eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ideal-Splice-In-Line-Wire-Connector-30-1042-crimp-free-Electrical-Connectors/232444288254?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D3e3781cd729a4ab7a7a50c97ccee99fc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D292120272087&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

probably get a better price by shopping round.

 

[telectrix]

like here:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-spl...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMfMvO3u3dUCFU6HUQodAKQPOQ

 

[Phil Thompson]

They look quite a handy wee yoke Tel.

 

[sparksburnout]

What about the John Ward video then, where he overloads a cable to test different types of joints. As I recall the ordinary type crimps that are supposed to be so bad held up with no problem at all? As someone has said we have not all got the luxury of fannying about making it look like a work of art.

 

[Specialist]

they are a bit fatter than a yellow crimp connector, but much easier to use as you don't need to get crimp tool into a confined space, then find that 1 of the wired has pulled out when you're trying to crimp.

Who sells them mate ?.

like here:

Ideal SpliceLine In-Line Wire Connectors Pack of 100 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-spliceline-in-line-wire-connectors-pack-of-100/72727?kpid=72727&ds_rl=1250418&gclid=CjwKCAjw_dTMBRBHEiwApIzn_OyNZBHtGtXfDKXwGF1NMYS0ufAwc-bHPn9Ui_KFhHucCbYrg-a3eBoC2SYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMfMvO3u3dUCFU6HUQodAKQPOQ

Thanks Tel: May get some to try.

 

[Specialist]

What about the John Ward video then, where he overloads a cable to test different types of joints. As I recall the ordinary type crimps that are supposed to be so bad held up with no problem at all? As someone has said we have not all got the luxury of fannying about making it look like a work of art.

Think half the time, it's down to the rubbish terminals that are being sold by lots of places. I've never had any problems with Ampliversal or David crimps & that was using a normal hand crimper, not a ratchet.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

The problem with 'generic' crimps that you buy over the counter is that you can't really tell what you're getting. Some might work OK on solid conductors, others might not, the only way to find out is to make the joint and pass 28A through it on and off for a few years. The bad ones will loosen with the thermal cycling, go high resistance and overheat, the good ones will still be fine. With crimps designed and specified for solid, the manufacturer has done this and made sure they will maintain a low resistance gas-tight contact for life. JW's demo is interesting but doesn't predict the behaviour of those connectors a few years down the line.

 

[Marvo]

Solder sleeves give a very low profile, air tight joint, very high conductivity and very high resistance to pull-out. They're quick to use and you can visually inspect the full contact area of the joint anytime after it's been made.....just a bit pricey compared to crimp-on ferrules.

 

[davesparks]

What about the John Ward video then, where he overloads a cable to test different types of joints. As I recall the ordinary type crimps that are supposed to be so bad held up with no problem at all? As someone has said we have not all got the luxury of fannying about making it look like a work of art.

He tested one single connection of each type on a brand new piece of cable, and he most likely made the joints correctly.
This proves nothing other than that a properly made joint, of any type, is up to the task. This was not a test in 'real world' conditions.

Repeat the test on hundreds of joints in older cable using a set of crimpers which have been carried around in a toolbox for a couple of years and see if the results are the same.
If you don't properly clean the copper to remove any tarnish and oxidation before making the crimp you will end up with quite a few failures.

 

[telectrix]

Solder sleeves give a very low profile, air tight joint, very high conductivity and very high resistance to pull-out. They're quick to use and you can visually inspect the full contact area of the joint anytime after it's been made.....just a bit pricey compared to crimp-on ferrules.

View attachment 37878

i bought a few of these to try them out. can't manage to heat the conector enough to melt the solder without melting the plastic.tried a heat gun and gentle mini blow torch. both melted the plastic. answers on a postcard, please.

 

[Midwest]

I take on-board on what my peers tell me about the possible limitations of crimp connectors on solid cables, i.e. that any movement (twisting etc) on the finished crimp such as pulling movement, could result in failure.

I'm just wondering when such movement might take place, after the crimp has been made? Perhaps when the installer is checking the crimp? Not when the crimp has been placed in the wall perhaps (to carry out the repair). Perhaps when used to extend wires inside a CU, when another installer comes along to install other cables or devices? Then similarly, the push in butt splices would be subject to such forces (it's how they are designed to be released), and decrease their effectiveness?

I recall a similar thread on another forum, when a member asked a butt crimp manufacturer if their crimps were suitable for solid cables. They said they were, but if he wanted that in writing, he would have to submit a sample, for them to submit suitable tests.

To carry out a repair on a cable in a plastered wall (i.e. no way of replacing cable, or joint elsewhere), I see no other way than using a butt connector. Crimp or solder.

 

[Midwest]

i bought a few of these to try them out. can't manage to heat the conector enough to melt the solder without melting the plastic.tried a heat gun and gentle mini blow torch. both melted the plastic. answers on a postcard, please.

I've also tried, and got the same result, could it be that they are primarily designed for multi stranded wires (flex), and with a solid cable requires more heat to melt the solder? Perhaps get some old dragon to breath on them