Flexicom 30cx - H/W but no C/H

Hi all

Really, really helping someone can lend gods hand with this. Basically, our new house has a Glow Worm boiler and I cannot get the boiler to fire up for C/H.

H/W is fine and as soon as you run the tap it produces H/W and the tap symbol with temp displays on the LCD. I've checked all the valves are open on the pipework below the boiler, bled the rads, TRV's up to full ect ect.

The pressure does display at 3.4 bar however, I was under the impression the PRV would just release the excess and don't believe this has anything to do with it.

Thing is, when I checked the paperwork (gas cert) for the boiler it stated under comments 'wireless reciever broken'.

Now, the kit in question is the Salus RT500RF (RX) which is the wireless programmable stat and reciever.

I couldn't find a matching reciever (has it been superceeded)? So, I just nipped out and picked up a mechanical stat (Honeywell T6360) and left the programmer off.

Now, this is where I've hit a wall and I don't know if I've made a mistake or there is an actual problem with the appliance. The boiler is deffo getting a feed hence H/W via the spur and the back box adjacent to the boiler has the obvious 3 core + earth. I just connected the stat up as per perm feed, switched live and the neutral.

I thought simply changing this configuration to a stat in replacement for a reciever would solve the issue temp but I still can't get heating. The neon on the stat illuminates and turning it up to full does not make the boiler call for heat.

If I recall, the boiler itself has a 240V side and a 24V side. I'm not sure if I should have done anything with the 24v link but having it both in and removed changes nothing. If I do a manual reset the boiler goes through the motions like 2x mechanical click, fan burst but then just sits in standby only showing the H/W symbol not both.

It is worth mentioning if you hold the MODE button for the 3 secs it displays a flashing rad symbol with the word OFF.

The - and + do nothing. It's like the boiler is set up for H/W only.

I can't get this to change to ON and don't know if this has to do with the stat. Is the Honeywell compatible with this boiler or was I meant to get a Salus reciever in the first place?

I can't find a matching model and don't know if an updated variant would do the trick. Research tells me these boilers are **** and it's really spoilt my venture into being a first time buyer of a home.

What's more, I feel terribly embarrassed I'm having to ask you guys for help knowing full well I did not ask enough questions or scrutinise the boiler when looking at the house. This was clearly very stupid.

I'm paranoid about damp now as the house is part furnished (all new) and the place is an ice box and I mean ice box.

The pump seems ok and I don't know how to prove/check if it's the diverter valve.

It's pretty clear I'm not big up on boilers so my apologies for chapter and verse.

Thanks.

Have you got a photo of electrical connections?

was the old stat wired on the 240v side?

I am wondering if you should have a link between 24v and 0v see manual attached.

Once you have pressed the mode button for 3 seconds did you then set the central heating temperature using +-?
The wiring looks like it should be OK, though I cannot exactly see the colours of the cores but the switched line seems to be correct.
The lack of CH operation does seem to indicate no control system in place, but you have got a system there.
Have you checked that the cable connection at both ends are securely fixed?
The boiler should run the hot water without reference to the external controls, so the lack of CH can only be relevant to the external controls, unless there is a pcb failure on the boiler just for CH.

try amazon they seem to have them. www.amazon.co.uk/Salus-RT500RF-Programmable-Frequency-Thermostat/dp/B003ERP1LE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517746598&sr=8-1&keywords=Salus+RT500RF not sure if you can get the seperate parts or neet to buy as a set.

Attached. See pages 24/25

Manual Page 24, as @anthonybragg says you need to put a link between 0-24v terminals

Hi

Thanks for sticking with us. Ok, to avoid confusion I will answer each part as per order of your posts (hope that makes sense).

1. When you say stat wired on the old 240v side all I have done is removed the apparent faulty wireless RF and replaced it for a honeywell mechanical stat. The connections in the boiler interface housing remain the same which are:

3 core pvc flex to brown - Live, Blue - Neutral, CPC, 3 core + earth doubled with Live flex to brown, Neutral flex to Black, terminal R with Grey (terminal F empty).

2. The 24v link has been reinstated.

3. Pressing and holding mode button only brings up a flashing rad symbol with 'off' displayed.

Taking all above into consideration the boiler still won't provide C/H. I've tested the pcb at the electrical test point and am getting juice.

I cannot for the life of me understand why there is no facility to hold the mode button to either A) set the heating temp or B) get it to actually display 'on'.

A google search does not bring any hint of why the mode button behaves this way.

It's as if the boiler is sat in standby and waiting to be call on for heat.

My main concern is actually replacing the honeywell stat for a working reciever won't solve the problem.

Does this boiler only work with LV exterior controls?

Could this quite possibly be a faulty diverter valve?

Oh just to add I drained a bit off the rad and the pressure is now 1.1 bar. Still no change. Thanks 123 for your input.

Are the any blown fuses on the PCB? Have you taken a look at the troubleshooting section of the installer manual?

I will double check the pcb fuse but it was fine on continuity. I can't seem to locate an actual troubleshoot that pertains to the boiler display wherin the heating symbol stays as OFF.

I noticed the last Gas Safe cert is registered 01/16.

There's no 2017 cert. Although I feel I've been a numpty and not queried this from the outset, if I feel in any way the seller has omitted the boiler is faulty or the 2017 check has deliberately been omitted then I will open the flood gates.

Thanks again for trying. I've had to leave the property for a bit. My car is warmer!

Hi,i do not know your level of skill,regarding such matters,but that boiler has a frost stat input,at "F". A supply to that,which bypasses the control side,would tell you if the control side is faulty.
Nothing there,would indicate a boiler issue,valve micro-switches,pcb,etc.

If unsure,i would not allow an expensive house to moisten...contact a recommended heating engineer.