Require additional cooker spur in kitchen

intamixx · Nov 19, 2018

Hello,

My electrician is currently wiring a new kitchen and has wired in a cooker switch to a cooker fused spur shown in the attached photo for the electric cooker oven. He has used 6mm flex wiring for the circuit. The cooker hob is gas. He has installed a B32 for the circuit back at the consumer unit and the cooker requires a 32A connection according to its specs.

We now require another electric combi oven/microwave/grill (don’t ask!) mounted at eye level around 2 meters away from where the cooker is. This combi unit requires a 16A connection and there is only a 13A double socket in this area.

Given they have already plastered and skimmed the walls and adding another separate circuit would be a little difficult, I just wanted to check before the electrician comes back next week, but he talked about having an additional cooker spur off the 6mm flex cable which are within 2m of each other. So both spurs would be controlled by the cooker switch. Would this mean the MCB would need changing to a B50 to allow for the potential higher power draw? Is this acceptable or is there another better way to do this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Require additional cooker spur in kitchen

Pete999 · Nov 19, 2018

The item you marked as a Cooker Spur, looks like a cooker connection unit, switched or controlled by the Cooker switch, if the Combi MW has a 13 Amp plug on it can you not plug it into the 13 Amp twin socket shown in your photo, what is that hanging down in the corner?

Spoon · Nov 19, 2018

intamixx said:
Would this mean the MCB would need changing to a B50 to allow for the potential higher power draw?

The size of breaker is limited by the 6mm cable and its installation method.. You can't put a 50A breaker on a 6mm cable.

Taylortwocities · Nov 19, 2018

You could just change the single "cooker spur" (connection point to dual one.)

CLICK

Connect the combi and the cooker to it. You do not need to change anything else.

davesparks · Nov 19, 2018

Why the question? Do you not trust your electrician to do this?

Why not just let your electrician work out the best solution to the problem, he's probably already annoyed about you making this change when it's too late to do it properly so why annoy him more with 'the people on the Internet said this....' ?

intamixx · Nov 19, 2018

Pete999 said:
The item you marked as a Cooker Spur, looks like a cooker connection unit, switched or controlled by the Cooker switch, if the Combi MW has a 13 Amp plug on it can you not plug it into the 13 Amp twin socket shown in your photo, what is that hanging down in the corner?

This combi unit requires a 16A hardwired connection according to its specs. Those wires hanging down in the corner are TV/internet cabling.

suffolkspark · Nov 19, 2018

If the manufacturer specs ask for a 16A dedicated supply then id be getting a bag of plaster ready

telectrix · Nov 19, 2018

spur the microwave drom the 45A cooker switch. leave the 32A breaker or perhaps ugrade to 40A ( depending on the ref. method of the 6.0mm). worst scenario is if both cooker and micro are on at same time, MCB may trip,

MDJ · Nov 21, 2018

intamixx said:
Hello,

My electrician is currently wiring a new kitchen and has wired in a cooker switch to a cooker fused spur shown in the attached photo for the electric cooker oven. He has used 6mm flex wiring for the circuit. The cooker hob is gas. He has installed a B32 for the circuit back at the consumer unit and the cooker requires a 32A connection according to its specs.

We now require another electric combi oven/microwave/grill (don’t ask!) mounted at eye level around 2 meters away from where the cooker is. This combi unit requires a 16A connection and there is only a 13A double socket in this area.

Given they have already plastered and skimmed the walls and adding another separate circuit would be a little difficult, I just wanted to check before the electrician comes back next week, but he talked about having an additional cooker spur off the 6mm flex cable which are within 2m of each other. So both spurs would be controlled by the cooker switch. Would this mean the MCB would need changing to a B50 to allow for the potential higher power draw? Is this acceptable or is there another better way to do this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

View attachment 45847

Did you ring the Electrician and ask the question? I suspect they know the job and will be on top of it, (Message to the mods, sorry if this seems aggressive, I am actually trying to understand the OPs question)

intamixx · Nov 22, 2018

MDJ said:
Did you ring the Electrician and ask the question? I suspect they know the job and will be on top of it, (Message to the mods, sorry if this seems aggressive, I am actually trying to understand the OPs question)

Yes in the original post I mentioned "he talked about having an additional cooker spur off the 6mm flex cable which are within 2m of each other. So both spurs would be controlled by the cooker switch. "

Just wanted to get another opinion in case someone had an alternative idea.