Pigtails are not suitable for EMC compliance, you need to use the correct gland or terminate it into the VSD chassis clamps.
Also the screen should be connected from the VSD chassis back to the motor frame.
Edit: and another thing. Seeing you cannot buy a concentric SY (3 core without a green yellow core) it's not really a suitable VSD cable at all.
Having worked on a VSD today the instructions clearly stated the screen is not to be terminated at the motor but an earth conductor must be provided... What the difference is I have not a scooby doo.
There are 2 earth points between the motor connexions and the VSD cable clamp, and listed for the earth conductor and screen.
Cable being 4 core 6mm² SY.
The reason I was there being a brand new motor (identical make and spec to original) created interference on the BMS in the form of silly 0-10V and 4-20mA readings on nearby sensors... Not an issue with the other motor in the pair or apparently the removed motor.
The only work done being the replacement of 18KW motor by the company maintenance team.
My first check being the 2 worst affected sensor wiring as the maintenance team informed me they had thouroughly checked the motor wiring, both cabled with 0.5mm² SY, plastic cable glanded into BMS enclosure, screen very short pigtailed to earth bar, one sensor in 5 core for 0V, 24Vdc, earth & 0-10V loop. Second being 2 core for 4-20mA. At sensor ends stuffing glanded to sensor, the screens being well isolated. All nicely done and untouched for years.
My next check being the motor wiring, I looked in the VSD first as the cover had been removed; green yellow terminated in one terminal screen pigtailed into other terminal, metal clamp on plastic sheath (only 10mm from earth terminal).
At motor the very brown SY was terminated with new looking brass gland into motor terminal box, the other motor of the pair sported a grey gland which I checked with a meter to be insulating (presumably plastic).
Internally all 4 wires were correctly terminated with new yellow ring crimps onto their studs.
Luckily the brass gland was fitted with locknut and undoing it there was plenty of slack to slide the gland away from the metal enclosure and protecting the wires from chaffing with card the motor was started and ran without altering the sensor readings.
Luckily I had a suitable 25mm stuffing gland and replacing the new brass gland was a fairly easy, maintenance had heatshrink and heat gun to add extra protection to the screen after trimming it back to inside the sheath.
I'd forgotten this thread and found it while looking to see if the subject had been raised here.