EV charger issue - Garo PME trips

Has the electrician tried replacing the GARO unit?

How come he decided to use this device vs an earth rod?

Robson689 said:

Has the electrician tried replacing the GARO unit?

How come he decided to use this device vs an earth rod?

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No, not replaced (yet). Garo vs Earth rod - price and simplicity I suppose.

My guess is either a faulty Garo unit or a regular supply voltage fluctuation that is too short to be picked up by the sampling the car charger is doing hence you can't see it on the app.
Leaving a decent multi-meter connected on min and then max might prove the point, failing that a voltage data logger could be hired and connected for a few days.
Even if you prove that, getting the DNO to do something about it can take effort and endurance.

To be honest I don't highly rate the methodology used by the Garo Pen protection devices as they aren't guaranteed to detect an open PEN conductor in all circumstances (subject to what loads your neighbours are pulling at the time) and they can be triggered by supply issues (as you may be seeing).

If it were me I'd be seriously considering banging an earth rod in and changing the earthing arrangements in the garage, removing the need for the PEN protection device completely.

I don't want to cause additional concern but a couple of unrelated things jump out at me too:
-you may have a PV system on a shared RCD in the house CU. This is a no-no as there's no point the RCD tripping to save your life if the PV system continues to deliver power until it notices it should shut down.
-the RCD topology isn't ideal - I think there's three 30ma type A RCD's in series. A Type B would normally be fitted for an EV charger.

timhoward said:

My guess is either a faulty Garo unit or a regular supply voltage fluctuation that is too short to be picked up by the sampling the car charger is doing hence you can't see it on the app.
Leaving a decent multi-meter connected on min and then max might prove the point, failing that a voltage data logger could be hired and connected for a few days.
Even if you prove that, getting the DNO to do something about it can take effort and endurance.

To be honest I don't highly rate the methodology used by the Garo Pen protection devices as they aren't guaranteed to detect an open PEN conductor in all circumstances (subject to what loads your neighbours are pulling at the time) and they can be triggered by supply issues (as you may be seeing).

If it were me I'd be seriously considering banging an earth rod in and changing the earthing arrangements in the garage, removing the need for the PEN protection device completely.

I don't want to cause additional concern but a couple of unrelated things jump out at me too:
-you may have a PV system on a shared RCD in the house CU. This is a no-no as there's no point the RCD tripping to save your life if the PV system continues to deliver power until it notices it should shut down.
-the RCD topology isn't ideal - I think there's three 30ma type A RCD's in series. A Type B would normally be fitted for an EV charger.

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Thanks for this. Before we commit to an earth rod, are there any PEN devices you'd rate better than the Garo? Perhaps a simple swap would suffice?

As far as solar - that's the wiring the house came with (new build), I suspect the same as the rest of the large new development. But I take your point and may raise it with the builders.

Thanks

After awhile I've noticed that the PME fault device trips every now and again

What actually trips in the GARO? The contactor, the RCD or both?

marconi said:

After awhile I've noticed that the PME fault device trips every now and again

What actually trips in the GARO? The contactor, the RCD or both?

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That is a great question and I did make an assumption there.
I assumed the contactor tripped as there are 2 other 30ma Type A RCDs upstream and I suspected one or both of them would also trip if it was the RCD tripping.

ElectricallyRandom said:

Before we commit to an earth rod, are there any PEN devices you'd rate better than the Garo?

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Unfortunately I'm not aware of any better standalone ones that aren't integrated into charge points.
I believe the Matt:e one works the same as the one you have. Some charge points also monitor current on the earth conductor as an additional factor in their decision making. @Gavin John Hyde is the resident expert.

( See )

Ultimately the point of this thing is to make sure that if there is a supply fault your car body cannot become live. This method of protection was added to the regs based on the laws of averages to make it easier to fit charge points. My personal opinion is that it's better to make sure the car body isn't connected to supply earth in the first place, and bang a couple of £10 earth rods in.

timhoward said:

That is a great question and I did make an assumption there.
I assumed the contactor tripped as there are 2 other 30ma Type A RCDs upstream and I suspected one or both of them would also trip if it was the RCD tripping.

Unfortunately I'm not aware of any better standalone ones that aren't integrated into charge points.
I believe the Matt:e one works the same as the one you have. Some charge points also monitor current on the earth conductor as an additional factor in their decision making. @Gavin John Hyde is the resident expert.

( See

)

Ultimately the point of this thing is to make sure that if there is a supply fault your car body cannot become live. This method of protection was added to the regs based on the laws of averages to make it easier to fit charge points. My personal opinion is that it's better to make sure the car body isn't connected to supply earth in the first place, and bang a couple of £10 earth rods in.

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Might not be the answer to your question, but the only thing that trips is the switch on the Garo itself.

I can understand not wanting to knock in a meter of earth rod, but to detect loss of PEN it really only needs to be 6 inches. However

ElectricallyRandom said:

Armoured 10mm^2 cable (from main circuit board to garage - approximately 32 meters) has been used to the garage where a smaller consumer board and the PME fault device was fitted. From there there's around 4-5m of 4mm cable to the actual charger.

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If in a garage why does it need any loss of PEN detection?

EricMark said:

I can understand not wanting to knock in a meter of earth rod, but to detect loss of PEN it really only needs to be 6 inches. However

If in a garage why does it need any loss of PEN detection?

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Are you suggesting an EVCP installed on a non-dwelling doesn't need to comply with BS7671?

ElectricallyRandom: please tell us the exact make and model of your ev charger. I want to check its maximum power and power factor and what type and amperage of rcbo is recommended.

http://www.electricneutron.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Wire-sizing-_current-rating-table.pdf. Page 4 of 11 CCC of 4, 6 and 10mm2 cabling.

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...ll-connector-installation-manual-en-EU-v2.pdf Page 9 minimum cable size

Your voltage readings and graph suggest the garo is working correctly. I think the voltage readings provide a clue to the problem as over current.

A look at the second link on page 9 at bullet 5 of Minimum Requirements says the minimum supply cable csa must allow for periods of sustained current of 40A. The same reference states the maximum output current of the charger is 32A. The difference between 40A on the input to the charger and 32A on the output is indicative of a power factor less than 1.

We have already noted significant voltage drops by measurement and in the App graph. Not surprising when circa 40A flows along a final circuit some 40m long and with a cascade of connections and wiring devices added in too contributing resistance.

The 10mm2 between CU and garage DB meets current and voltage drop requirements. The 5m of 4mm2 is inadequate - see first link page 4. A 4mm2 clipped direct just about meets minimum of 40A. For a margin above 40A when cables run in conduit as is the case for the OP and to minimise voltage drop the required cabling is 10mm2.

I suspect, I cannot be certain right now, that the consequence of excessive voltage drop is the EV charger draws a higher input current - more than 40A- to produce a 32A output current. What I think may be happening is the GARO 40A RCBO is tripping on sustained overcurrent in the first few hours of charging. This is worsened perhaps if the battery charging mode changes after some elapsed time - we can see a second significant voltage dip at 10pm on the graph when current increases. It looks like the charger began output at about 8pm where the first voltage dip is seen.

Quite why the 32A type B mcb has not tripped in the garage DB is unexplained. But it could be that there is more rapid temperature rise in the GARO since it contains a warm contactor coil.

So what would I do? I would swap the 4mm2 cabling for 10mm2 and see what happens. Actually I would measure the current first. Do you have an ampclamp with which to measure current to charger?

I could be wrong of course but this is a cheap and easy thing to do first in the absence of an ampclamp and should be done anyway to meet installation requirement. Your electrician could measure the current though.

marconi said:

ElectricallyRandom: please tell us the exact make and model of your ev charger. I want to check its maximum power and power factor and what type and amperage of rcbo is recommended.

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Tesla Gen 3 charger

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...ng/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf

Would you look at the link and page 36 - 'Wall Connector LEDs'.

When you first start up the charger from powered off what is the pattern of vertical green LEDs you see which records the mcb size the charger believes it is connected to? By selecting the mcb size the charger then knows at what level to limit the maximum output current and thus input current. This is done during first commissioning of the charger. Do you know if it was done?

When you next charge car would you feel the 4 mm2 cabling or the conduit in which it is contained. Do this after an hour and then two hours. Is the cable/conduit noticeably warm? Stick a thermometer on if you have one and take a reading. Also feel the surface temperature of the GARO RCBO and the 32A circuit breaker in the garage board.. You do not need to open up anything to do this and the previous test.

I am wondering if your Gen 3 charger has been incompletely/incorrectly commissioned such that it 'thinks' it has a power supply feed sufficient to deliver its maximum or near maximum current output of 48A. See page 6 of link above.

I have to say I think I was barking up wrong tree - it certainly looks more like an earth leakage or over current issue than a PEN fault detector issue. It makes sense to follow the advice above.